It's already in the CRD section and my previous reply is below
Best place to start is read and follow the NOOB guide as many of your questions are answered there. Other comments:
1. 5W-40 6.3 qts with Wix 51516 filter or 7 qts with larger Wix 51515 Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel or ESP or Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic - equivalent filters or synthetic diesel rated oil are ok. I know the dip stick is off but don't have first hand knowledge of where the mark should be yet.
2. Transmission fluid ATF+4 only - as with antifreeze FSMs are inconsistent. Service fill seems to be 8qts while full fill is more like 14qts or more.
3. Antifreeze HOAT only - Xerex G-05 or Mopar, not Prestone or other "universal" - drain as much old fluid as you can and add 6qts of new undiluted antifreeze and do the remaining fill with water to get to at least 50/50 - the manuals are inconsistent on the coolant system capacity and no one has yet found a simple full system flush method (I have an idea that's yet to be tried) although you can to multiple (6-7) fill, briefly run engine, drain, repeat cycles which will pretty much get all the old antifreeze out of the system.
4. NOOB site has links to the manuals although the 2005 FSM is missing some date in Section 7 and lacks the diagnostic manuals (I found copies and have sent them to Sir Sam to post when he gets time - PM me with an email address if you want them sooner); the 2006 has the diagnostic stuff but most figures lack the captions found in the 2005 manual. Hence I tend to use both.
5. You can use a standard engine degreaser to clean your engine but only use a low pressure water rinse. High pressure tends to put water in electical connections with bad results.
6. Others will have a better answer but the EGR seems to be somewhat behind the engine and toward the passenger side from the fuel filter head. As I understand it's a pain in the you know what to remove to clean. The preferred method seems to be an "italian" cleaning; engine temp to operating; hard acceleration up an on ramp or slight grade which produces a lot of smoke; repeat as needed to reduce smoke cloud. GDE ECU tune largely turns the EGR off so you can forget about it, I have.
7. Be sure you don't have the potentially leaky fuel filter head. See
http://www.greendieselengineering.com/f ... st/76.page
8. Temp gauge should point straight up or no more than 1 tic left of straight up. An lower after a 5 mile drive normal (not fridged and not AZ summer) means your thermostat is failing open or more likely opening too soon.
9. timing belt replacement time is 100,000 miles and must be done in a timely manner. This is an iterference engine so if the belts let go engine interior parts meet and greet each other with potentially bad results.
Oh I'll say it again read the NOOB guide.
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