No "cooler" tstat; there is only one OEM tstat temp (ca. 175-180). Normal fully warmed up temp gauge reading is dead vertical or about 1 needle width left of vertical; anything left of the 1st tick mark left of center is a sign of the tstat starting to go out; assuming a properly calibrated temp gaugue (see
http://www.greendieselengineering.com/f ... st/19.page) and good temp sending unit.
As to warm up time. My diesel experience (2 Dodge Cummins and 3 CRDs including my pre-dump truck encounter one and stoutdog's) is that you can start a cold engine and run it at or near idle darn near forever without any sign of life from the temp gauge (there was even a thread on this some time back that I'm not going to look for). But actually driving assuming a Tallahassee low of mid 20s to upper teens F not garaged; block heater plugged in; w/without viscous heater; good tstat I get detectable heat almost immediately and signs of life from the temp guage within 1-2 miles and a hot cab in 5 miles or so. Same conditions but with tstat failed partially open I get detectable heat almost immediately but the cab takes longer to get hot and of course engine never reaches operating temp. With a good tstat but without that block heater plugged in even with the viscous plugged in I don't get much if any cab heat for 1-2 miles, no temp gauge life for about 3-4 miles, and operating temp is not reached for about 8 miles. Normal 80-90F summer weather temp gauge activity within 1/2 mile and full operating in about 3 miles. This is all on relatively flat terrain, top speed ca. 45mph, average speed more like 15-20mph on a ca. 10 mile commute.