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 Post subject: bad motor part 2
PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2011 6:05 pm 
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Location: Long Island NY
Mechanic said I blew a valve in turn with the high compression of these motors i probably did something to the piston. He didnt take it apart. 42 years as a machanic and he's definite this is the problem. We hear a thumping sound from the intercooler hoses and he said it's the bad piston causing it. I feel he is honest to me but do you think I should bring it to a diesel mechanic or someone that worked on one of these little diesel. I live on Long Island NY and these were not offered for sale here. I was told a remanufactured motor from jeep is $7000., plus labor for going over everything else and im looking close to $10,000 I feel this truck is not worth it anymore. Does anyone know of a diesel mechanic on Long Island Or the surrounding states ill trailer it if I have to. I can't drive the fj40 everyday the gas mileage is killing me.
Thanks Greg

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 Post subject: Re: bad motor part 2
PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2011 7:01 pm 
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Well, I suggest that you do not get a dealer involved. A dealers prices will be very high.

Call the following company in Long Island.

East Coast Diesel Service
22 N. Prospect Ave.
Lynnbrook, NY 11563
Tel: 516.887.9220
http://www.ecdieselsvc.com/

or this one:

Precision Diesel Services Of Greene County, Inc
74 Bell Street
West Babylon, NY 11704-1026
(631) 756-2020

Imperial Diesel Inc
360 Commack Rd # C
Deer Park, NY 11729
Phone : (631) 586-6633

Tell them your problem and ask them if they know the names of reputable diesel mechanics or diesel repair shops in the area familiar with our CRD.

Get a few names and do some investigative work.

Don't give up.

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 Post subject: Re: bad motor part 2
PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2011 9:13 pm 
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Thanks dude
I will not give up. I'd hate to see this jeep go to waste its a cool little rig

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 Post subject: Re: bad motor part 2
PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2011 11:56 pm 
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why not just buy the parts from westbury jeep (moparonlineparts.com), they are somewhere in your neck of the woods. you can probably get a new piston with sleeve for less than 400. if you find a good mechanic, it may be worth it. i'm overstating this but I would think a diesel engine is similar to other diesels...I had "heard" that our engine was a clone of a Mercedez...

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 Post subject: Re: bad motor part 2
PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 4:44 am 
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The VM Motori diesel and the Merc are vastly different engines. Several sensors are similar, but the block structure, head, pistons, geometry are all different. The KJ engine has press in liners (removable) with a cast iron block, whereas the Merc (3.0l) is an aluminum block with cast in liners. The KJ engine is also a tunnel block design...the last of its kind anywhere in the world for a automotive vehicle. VM moved away from this type of block in 2008. Not that it is bad, just a 30 year old design.

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 Post subject: Re: bad motor part 2
PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 6:40 am 
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You don't need to remove the crank to remove a piston/rod. In fact all of the rods and pistons need to be pulled to remove the crank which you won't need to do.
So any one who has worked on the larger ORT engines, most construction equipment or most Ag equipment should have a clue on how to deal with a wet sleeve engine. But they may not need to deal with pulling a sleeve if the piston is bad.
Another option is to buy a used engine/long block and have it swapped it out.As long as the emission stuff is hung back on the engine, even the EPA does not gripe. Been there done that when I as in the repair business.
Good luck

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 Post subject: Re: bad motor part 2
PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 9:32 am 
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Find a mechanic who can do compression and leakdown tests. Don't make your decision based on a guess, no matter how much you respect the guesser.


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 Post subject: Re: bad motor part 2
PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 6:52 pm 
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ditto on the leak down test..

the thumping could be a bad valve..not a piston problem..

if you check other thread where people have blown the engine..in some cases the timing belt went which cause the piston to meet the valve and break the rockers..does this make the engine not fixable..kinda depends?

i hope its not the worst

-dkenny

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 Post subject: Re: bad motor part 2
PostPosted: Fri Jul 22, 2011 7:58 pm 
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Thanks to all who chimed in Ill be bringing it to a diesel mechanic next wednesday I keep you posted
Thanks again

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