Hello all, here's my situation. Had a code for #2 glow plug, removed it and found the ceramic tip had broken. I figured it was in the cylinder, so I pulled head off. The tip had already gone through the exhaust but did not do any damage, the piston has couple of mark but nothing major. So I assembled the engine back together and now I get no glow plug light, hard starting, lack of acceleration and black smoke from exhaust. I have searched the forum and found a post where a member had post these symptoms ( viewtopic.php?t=5102 ). I have checked resistance of the glow plugs and are within spec. I do have a wiring schematic for the glow plugs. Is the glow plug module on the drivers side that looks like a big relay? If it is I have power and good ground there. So now I am leaning towards the wires from the ECM going to the glow plug module. Using a test light I am not getting anything, do you know how many volts these wires have?, it may not be enough to for the testlight. Also was wondering what volts should the glow plugs have? I am getting around 8V, drops quickly to 3.8, stays there abit and then decreases from there, is this right? Any help will be appreciated.

Howdy jvigs Welcome to LOST.

If your glow plug resistance is in spec and you don't have a CEL- -it's not a glow plug issue.
and this time of year the glow plug would only affect starting if you're in South Australia.

However pulling the head has a lot of concerns in and of itself - not the least of which is keeping the cams in time.
I think you have a cam out of time -
although without the head work - I'd be looking at CAC hoses.

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stuff
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Test light is great for devices that consume wattage, but not for digital signals between the ECM and Glow Plug Control Module. All most all Automotive manufactures have go to some bus type configuration (others in the forum know the exact nuance) so they can reduce the size and number of wires. If you are lucky, you might see some small voltage you can measure when the ECM is signaling the GPCM. If you put in the NEW EXCUSE Glow plugs (5V?) Chrysler came up (like VW did and then went back) with you will need to have your ECM reflashed or you will fry them.
In simple terms the GPCM sends current in a pulse form that makes the glow plugs feel like they are getting the proper voltage 7V (original) or 5V (new excuse), that way they warm up very fast instead of taking 90 seconds like the original VW glow plugs did. With the new excuse 5v glow plugs, you need a shorter on time in proportion to the off time in the pulse time line. If you ask why, lots of people used LSD (not diesel fuel) in the 1960 and had no other talent than working for the EPA & CARB.
If the Bean Counters were kidnapped and put into a Taliban prison for life, we might get lucky, Real Engineers would have a celebration engineering session and Bosch or another company would come up with Plasma Ignitors that would screw right into the head and create a instant starting system. But needless to say and pardon the pun, there is too much resistance.

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Thanks for the replies. This morning I tried starting it again and seen the glow plug light come on the dash, so ruling out the plugs now. I did get the engine light on and the code is P1252 - Vacuum Reservoir Control Circuit High. I have searched the forum for this code and seen there is a way to by pass this. I will give it a try after lunch to see if it clears up the issues. I checked the turbo hoses for cracks and can see none and also cleaned the soot off the map sensor. When I reassembled the engine, I used the locking tool and pins for the cams, so i'm pretty sure the timing is correct. When I do start it, it idle is fine. Would this code make it run in limp mode? It seems like in 1st or 2nd the acceleration is the same.

might have to call GDE
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=53165

_________________
2005 CRD
stuff
Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur