I read on this forum that there was a recall (F37) that had to do with the torque converter.

My Jeep is currently shuddering between 70 and 90 km and is likely the result of the torque converter.

I called my dealer about the recall and she informed me that my vehicle does not qualify for this one. She said that because they are all made in different places recalls do not automatically extend to all vehicles.

I informed her that it sounded as if the part was the culprit and how foolish her explaination sounded given that there was a recall on the torque converter and that a torque converter is currently causing problems.

Am I getting jerked around?

Does anyone know if the transmission needs to be taken out to fix this? How much will this cost?

Thanks for the help.

Aaron

You can check to see if there are any outstanding recalls by inputing your VIN at http://www.jeep.com/webselfservice/jeep/index.jsp?screenName=recall

To replace the TQ, you have to remove the Tranny.

Is the tranny fluid level correct?- Check your owners manual on this, but I'm pretty sure it needs to be in Nuetral to get an accurate reading.

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

Thanks for the tip. I'll kick myself hard if that is the problem and never thought to check the fluid level.

Do you check with the engine running?

Aaron

From the 2005 Owners Manual

Fluid Level Check – 3.7L Gasoline Engine (42RLE) and 2.8L Diesel Engine (545RFE)
This fluid level should be checked when the engine is fully warmed up and the fluid in the transmission is
heated to its normal operating temperature. Operation of the transmission with an improper fluid level will greatly
reduce the life of the transmission and of the fluid. To check the automatic transmission fluid level properly,
the following procedure must be used:
1. The vehicle must be on level ground.
2. The engine should be running at curb idle speed for a minimum of 60 seconds.
3. Fully apply parking brake.
4. Apply the brakes and shift the transmission into P (Park).
5. The fluid MUST be checked with the transmission in P (Park) to be sure that the fluid level is accurate.
6. Wipe the dipstick clean and reinsert until seated.
7. Remove dipstick and note reading.
At normal operating temperature (approximately 180° F (82° C), the fluid level is correct if it is in the HOT region
(cross-hatched area) on the oil level indicator. The fluid level indicator should be in the COLD region at 70° F (21° C)
fluid temperature. If the fluid level is low, add sufficient fluid to bring to the proper level. Refer to Recommended Fluids,
Lubricants and Genuine Parts for correct fluid type. Fluid is added through the dipstick tube.
NOTE: To prevent dirt and water from entering the transmission after checking or replenishing fluid, make
certain that the dipstick cap is properly reseated.

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

and FYI to the original F37 comment - about half of the 06's came from the dealer with the detuned tranny control module - that meant they didn't need the F37.

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2005 CRD
stuff
Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur

Not really!

The F37 campaign started after production of the 06 Liberty CRD production stopped and most had already been sold
Now what really happened is that Liberties made before November 2, 2005 had a torque converter prone to early failure. Those made after that date didn't have the "feature" that caused the failures.
There was a press anouncment that 06 CRD production would stopped sometime in May of 06.
Later towards the end of calander year 2006 when F37 came along there were two lines for the F37 ride if you will
Those built before 11/2/05 and after 11/02/05
The first line got the torque converter replaced with the later one AND flashes to both the TCM and ECM lowering peak torque and raising shift points.
The second line only got the flashes to lower the engine torque and raise the shift points.

Mine was produced Jan 27, 2006 and I bought it May 20th 2006 and it was not neutered when I bought it.

Going back through many pages of posts F37 is first mentioned here on this post from December 1, 2006.
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=15086&p=147027&hilit=F37+Recall#p147027
There are 34 pages if you care to read them all

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

For those of you out there who need a rule of thumb, sorry, on tranny fluid temp. When you pull the dip stick touch the end with 1 or 2 fingers if that results in an ouch that's hot the fluid is up to operating temp; if it's cold>slightly warm it's cold; and if it's in between (e.g. can be held with minimal discomfort) it's warm. Read the level accordingly.

As always the Manuals confuse the issue by stating that the engine and fluid need to be at operating temp before fluid level can be checked and then referencing fluid level if not hot but not saying how to run that check. My recommendation on a cold engine check is to follow the instructions from the manual BUT at crank up idle in neutral for 15 seconds before putting the vehicle in park for the balance of the idle cycle and for the test. Using this method the fluid will be cold and first idling in neutral (not park as fluid doesn't move much if at all in park) for 15 seconds will ensure the system is fully pumped up with fluid and 45 seconds in park will settle the fluid level down for the level check. The manual test works fine IF one checks to make sure that the tranny fluid is, in fact, hot. This is important as the tranny fluid may or may not reach full operating temp as quickly as the engine.

Important reminder is to use only ATF+4 fluid. Other fluids can cause problems which might or might not include shudder or slipping. If in doubt based on lack of vehicle history knowledge you need to do a full fluid replacement which is NOT the same as a drain and refill.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Now how are you supposed to do this? Does anyone actually have a dipstick that doesn't creep up on it's own.

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Share your ideas freely at https://www.facebook.com/groups/libertydiesels/

Mine tends to stay in place pretty well if if I push it down hard and give it a bit of a twist once seated. If not I suspect a sliding surface bolt (such as http://houseofantiquehardware.com/4-Lig ... olid-Brass) or something similar (http://houseofantiquehardware.com/s.nl/ ... gory.49/.f) obtained from a local hardware store and attached (perhaps with a backing plate) to the cute somewhat useless plastic engine cover could be made to engage in the dipstick's top loop and discourage upward movement.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

A couple suggestions have been: squeeze the top of the tube slightly with pliers to pinch the dipstick enough to hold it in place; tuck the dipstick under the engine cover. I did/do both.

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'05 Sport CRD 107k miles. NOBODY knows everything.

I'm glad that I am not the only having this problem!

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05 CRD Sport, GDE eco tune/GDE TCM/fumoto/Trac Loc/Sony Deck/Polk DB6501 DB651
06 Jetta TDI, DSG