Howdy Guys, 2006 CRD Lib, and for some reason it's having trouble starting and staying started SOMETIMES. I've browsed through the threads with starting problems, and I can't figure out if this problem is similar or not. If my Jeep sits for a day or longer (especially when it sits 3+ days) it will start fine, idle fine for as long as you want, but the second you put it into gear it dies. I can get it started by priming the fuel pump, but I don't understand why the transmission setting effects it. The first time I noticed this, I had let it sit with 1/8 tank for several days in the cold, and I decided it was an isolated incident, and didn't happen again for a month or so until I left it for 5 days with a 1/4 tank and it did the same thing again. LIke i said, I know there's alot of discussion on the forum with similar problems, but I don't think I've found a thread with a Jeep that idles fine and then dies on shift. Thanks for your help !!

p.s......good news only please. haha.

Wow. Tough one.

The fact that you are having to "prime the fuel pump" makes it look at first glance to be a possible air leak issue. Strange that it is getting enough fuel to run until it goes into gear though.

My feeble advice is to try a temporary (or permanent) lift pump and see if it helps the issue. Pressurizing the lines may allow you to see where the leak is. I have seen where a fuel line showed no sign of fuel leaks whatsoever, but when pressurized it foamed fuel like one of those soaker-hoses you use in the yard. It was allowing air to leak into the system when it sat and caused similar issues to those that you describe.
Good luck and let us know what you find!

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2006 CRD GDE ECO/HOT Tunes and TCM swap and HD Mopar Torque Converter, EHM
2003 Jetta TDI 155K all stock
1957 International V8 Diesel

I strongly suspect you have a fuel delivery system problem which could be the typical air in the fuel head problem or possibly a bleed down between the fuel head and the injectors. The air in the fuel head problem IMHO is unrelated to the time period during which the vehicle sits idle rather it's related to how much driving time it takes to accumulate enough air in the fuel head to cause a problem. When that problem occurs the typical symptom is the engine will either crank but not start or start but immediately die and when recranked not start. Pumping the fuel head primer button and cracking the bleeder screw for several cycles until all the air is bleed out of the system makes this problem go away for a period of time. Question - do you have a 1st gen OEM fuel head (if the wire plug on the driver's side is noticably smaller than the passenger side plug the answer is Yes). If the answer is yes then your first step is to order a new 2nd gen OEM head with the wiring pigtail (last I looked http://www.stevewhiteparts.com/ had the best price) and install it with the preinstalled filter that comes on the new head (save the extra WIF sensor from your current filter just in case - PM/email me if you need advice on removal of the fuel lines and installation of the new pigtail). I ask this question because the 1s gen fuel head heater element (that driver's side plug) is prone to burn out and a leak of air/fuel hence it needs replacement ASAP. This may make your problem go away.

Other thoughts: check the fuel line fittings between the fuel head and each injector particularly at each injector for leakage (I've found a dry paper towel is useful for quickly finding dampness) tighten if need be. If you have to order the 2n gen fuel head do this while waiting for delivery. If these 2 steps don't solve your problem it's likely time for a lift pump which will pressurize the system at startup. There is lots of chat on the forum regarding in line (Kennedy, Mr. Gasket, Facet) or in tank and pros and cons of both.

FYI an engine at idle under no load needs less fuel than an engine at idle under load. Just engaging the transmission without pressing the throttle puts the engine under load. Been there done that.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

FYI- putting it in gear - puts a load on the engine - not much - but 2 to 3x what unloaded idle is - that uses more fuel - if you're margin - you're over the edge in gear.

and if you can fix it by priming - then odds are it's air in fuel

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2005 CRD
stuff
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