On the Manual for the KJ 2.8 CRD, it says that it is recommended to use the SAE 5W-30, and it also says that in countries where grade 30 is not available, a higher grade can be used. Well, I am in one of those countries, and I can only find 40 here, but what I find is SAE 15W-40 for diesel engines, I can't find 5W-40. Is this still ok?

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2006 Jeep Cherokee Liberty 2.8 CRD

All of the US CRD owners manuals indicate 0w40 or 5w40 weight to be used not 30 weight.

Are you sure you have the right owners manual?

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

Yes, it seems to be the right manual, but I can swear it says 30. It also says 40 can be used but it doesn't talk about 5W and if a higher one like 15W can be used.

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2006 Jeep Cherokee Liberty 2.8 CRD

From 2005 US Owner's manual (06 is essentially the same language)

"Engine Oil Selection (Diesel Engines) For best performance and maximum protection for all engines under all types of operating conditions, the manufacturer recommends using synthetic engine oils that are API Certified (SL/CF), and meet the requirements
of DaimlerChrysler Material Standard MS-10725. Engine Oil Viscosity (2.8L Diesel Engines) Use SAE 0W-40 Mobil 1 Synthetic Engine Oil that meets API categories CF or better and the requirements of DaimlerChrysler Material Standard MS-10725. If you cannot find SAE 0W-40, then SAE 5W-40 Mobil 1 Synthetic Engine Oil is acceptable. Any engine oil that does not meet the manufacturer’s requirements should not be used."

2005 Factory Service Manual (06 is essentially the same language)
"ENGINE OIL - DIESEL ENGINES - EXPORT Use only Diesel Engine Oil meeting standard MIL-2104C or API Classification CD or higher or CCML D4, D5."

I'm not sure I'd want to go to 15W-40 although others may have better knowledge on multi-weight synthetic oils than I do.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Ok, lets say the 30/40 was lost in translation, since my manual is in Spanish. Then the manual is asking for 5-40W at the most and I can't find 5, instead the less I can find is 15-40W. Is this still ok?

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2006 Jeep Cherokee Liberty 2.8 CRD

15W-40 - as noted I just don't know. You might PM tonycrd in Barcelona to find out he has found to use.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

I would not use 15W-40 diesel oil in an engine designed for 0W-40 diesel. All of my older diesels (except the backhoe) are currently running on Mobil-1 5W-40 turbodiesel with excellent results: Notably easier cold starts, less (no) sludge, and some slight perceived increase in power, although this is subjective. Based on my experience with using synthetics in gasser engines, I am expecting significantly less engine wear and much better longevity. The point is that engines designed for 15W-40 regular diesel lube run better and last longer on 5w-40 synthetic; an engine not designed for the significant increase in viscosity, especially at startup, posed by 15W oil, will be damaged due to film failure and lack of lubrication in short order. Don't do it.

If it were me and I *COULD NOT* find any source of 0W or 5W-40 diesel oil, I would run any 0W or 5W synthetic auto oil I could find and change it every 2000 miles to avoid acid and soot buildup. The auto oils do not have the longlife additives that the diesel oils have to mitigate acid etc.; frequent oil changes would mitigate that to some extent. Given the extremely expensive engine in the CRD, I would go to great lengths to find the correct lubricant. If needs be, import a 20 gallon drum or two of the right stuff from Italy or Germany and forget about the problem.

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Grid power- the one true essential

2005 Liberty CRD- ARP studs, Fumoto, Hayden FC, inline Tstat, ETechno 7v GP, Platinum P1, in-tank lift pump.
1983 Volvo D24T
1981 Volvo D24
Dodge Cummins TD
Case 580B
Mitsubishi MT180 diesel
Kubota BX25 diesel

I would think 5w40 should be not hard to find overseas since European cars seem to spec that oil. Where are you located? here in the US there are not many choices we have Mobil1, Shell Rotella T6 and Amsoil mostly. 0w40 I have only seen in mobil1 quarts, and only one store in my town ever has it.

2x on seeing what tony uses.

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2006 Liberty CRD Limited Deep Beryl Green Metallic Clear coat, Fumoto valve, MH ProVent (removed), GDE Eco tune,
OME 790/948 springs, OME struts, OME N132L shocks, Jeepin by Al A-arms, Hercules Terra Trac AT2 245/75R16
Weeks Stage 1 EGR delete, 5 volt steel glow plugs

keep in mind that the makeup of 5W-40 auto oil is very different from 5w-40 diesel oil. If you run 5W-40 auto oil, you need to reduce the service interval of your oil changes.

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Grid power- the one true essential

2005 Liberty CRD- ARP studs, Fumoto, Hayden FC, inline Tstat, ETechno 7v GP, Platinum P1, in-tank lift pump.
1983 Volvo D24T
1981 Volvo D24
Dodge Cummins TD
Case 580B
Mitsubishi MT180 diesel
Kubota BX25 diesel

Well, mine is a 2006 jeep liberty crd with 60,000 miles and the previous owner just told me he used semi-sinthetic oils. So, it seems you have to stick with the same oil or your joints in the engine will probably get cleaned and thus the oil will leak...
I read the manual again and more carefully and realized that for diesel engines, it was recommending 10W-40.
The thing is that all _W-40's are sinthetic, not semi-sinthetic...
I found on the internet that they sell here the HAVOLINE ULTRA S 5W-40 which is both for gas and diesel engines (for BMW/DaimlerChrysler engines with particles filter and its API but not SAE), or the Texaco URSA SUPER TD SAE 15W40 (probably for big trucks?) but they don't sell the 10W-40 and then a brazilian one called LUBRAX TEC TURBO SAE 10W-40. Maybe I'll better go with this latter one?

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2006 Jeep Cherokee Liberty 2.8 CRD

First off, using different oil from the PO will not cause any problems that you don't already have. I have switched oils on my vehicles and have never had a problem.

Second, not all multi-viscosity oils are synthetic; there are plenty of _W-40 multiviscosity oils that aren't. The Havoline is synthetic.

Third, the Havoline is rated API CF, but not CF-4 or any higher ratings. I suggest that if you use this oil that you shade the oil changes on the short side.

If I had to choose between a 10W and a 5W I would pick the 5W, the Havoline, and change it frequently.


Good luck!

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Grid power- the one true essential

2005 Liberty CRD- ARP studs, Fumoto, Hayden FC, inline Tstat, ETechno 7v GP, Platinum P1, in-tank lift pump.
1983 Volvo D24T
1981 Volvo D24
Dodge Cummins TD
Case 580B
Mitsubishi MT180 diesel
Kubota BX25 diesel

Digging around a bit the Havoline Ultra 5W-40 is a full synthetic and meets API SL/CF, which is the base Owner's Manual recommendation, but does not list meeting Chrysler MS-10725. That doesn't mean that it fails to meet the MS-10725 standard it's just not certified to do so. You might be able to find out if the other standards it does meet are the equivalent.

Bottom line is absent other choices I agree with LMWatBullRun go with the Havoline based on the 5W-40 rating and run a schedule B or shorter oil change interval (e.g. 6k miles or less) which is what I do anyway. No way can I talk myself into a 10-12k oil change interval the $s saved IMHO just don't merit the level of risk I see.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

I run the Delo 15-40 diesel oil, its just fine, kinda thick in the winter.

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http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

"You pays your money and you takes your choice!"

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Grid power- the one true essential

2005 Liberty CRD- ARP studs, Fumoto, Hayden FC, inline Tstat, ETechno 7v GP, Platinum P1, in-tank lift pump.
1983 Volvo D24T
1981 Volvo D24
Dodge Cummins TD
Case 580B
Mitsubishi MT180 diesel
Kubota BX25 diesel

I just found on the web a Manual in English for the CRD Liberty sold in the US and you guys are right, it recommends the 0W-40 or 5W at the most but on my manual in Spanish it says that the best choice is 10W-40 if the temperature is in between 35°C and -10°C and only if the temperature is below this range, then 5W-40 is better. Its so weird that they have 2 totally different recommendations for the same vehicle...

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2006 Jeep Cherokee Liberty 2.8 CRD

I don't know if it helps, but I'm in England and the dealer used 5-30 Mobil 1 Synthetic for the last 5 years - no problems. I just started doing some servicing myself(extended contract expired) and used 0-40 Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel full synthetic. I bought the oil through Amazon - cheaper than our retailers and quick delivery. Its not a cheap oil, but although I'm currently (mostly)unemployed, I have always over the years viewed good oils as an investment in my vehicle's long-term health.

Frankly, I'd be surprised if you had any problems going from a part to a full synthetic oil. If you are concerned, change to the full syn and then do another oil and filter change after a couple of thousand miles.

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Light Khaki 2.8CRD: TJM alloy bumper; Skid Row &Asfir skids;ext. breathers; SAMCO hoses; Grabber At3 235/70/16; Fumoto; Euro TC; Odyssey PC1500;GDE FTEcotune; OME lift; lightforce driving lights;ARB diff cover;nylon fan+Hayden2905;ss vortex exhaust; Airflow snorkel; Frontrunner roofrack; rock rails

Well, they say that you have to stick to the same kind of oil forever and never change. The reason is that sometimes new synthetic oils have additives that clean up the engine in a way that they take away pieces of old solid oil that are filling little holes/broken joints everywhere in an old engine and then you will end up with oil leaks...

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2006 Jeep Cherokee Liberty 2.8 CRD

Cr*p. An engine has a LOT of oil galleries - many of which are very small, and anything that blocks them up effectively destroys the engine. Further, if your engine has broken joints and holes, you are already in deep trouble: it will fail and usually when it matters most.

The other point which should be remembered, is that oil companies do NOT keep the same formulations forever - the oil formulations are changed and "evolve" if you will to meet new demands, manufacturer specifications and (not to be forgotten) statutory requirements re pollutants, additives etc. The Mobil 1 5-30 of today is not the same as the Mobil 1 5-30 of ten years ago, and that is true of every other motor oil. If anything, your engine will benefit from an internal cleaning.

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Light Khaki 2.8CRD: TJM alloy bumper; Skid Row &Asfir skids;ext. breathers; SAMCO hoses; Grabber At3 235/70/16; Fumoto; Euro TC; Odyssey PC1500;GDE FTEcotune; OME lift; lightforce driving lights;ARB diff cover;nylon fan+Hayden2905;ss vortex exhaust; Airflow snorkel; Frontrunner roofrack; rock rails

Well, so the thing about sticking with the same type of oil seems to be a myth.
Are all these grades different if they are for diesel engines or for gas ones? I found a 5W-40 but it was saying it was for Motorcicles. I guess I have to only buy the ones for Turbo diesel...

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2006 Jeep Cherokee Liberty 2.8 CRD

There are different views about that, but the ONLY safe way to select an oil is to check the specification on the can. There are different specs for diesel and petrol engines, although some oils are rated for both. I can't recall right now what the minimum spec is for our engines - should be in the manual - I refer to the (I think) CF codes. My view is to get the highest spec I can, but that is costly - but like I said, I've always viewed expenditure on a high class of oil to be an investment in the vehicle - some will say I'm spending more than I need, but in part its a bit like having a comfort blanket

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Light Khaki 2.8CRD: TJM alloy bumper; Skid Row &Asfir skids;ext. breathers; SAMCO hoses; Grabber At3 235/70/16; Fumoto; Euro TC; Odyssey PC1500;GDE FTEcotune; OME lift; lightforce driving lights;ARB diff cover;nylon fan+Hayden2905;ss vortex exhaust; Airflow snorkel; Frontrunner roofrack; rock rails