Foam in Coolant Reservoir

fatweasel · **Posted:** Mon Aug 27, 2012 6:46 pm

I got the "Low Coolant Level" light on the way to work this morning. Engine temps seemed normal - about 1/2 of the temperature gauge range. Let things cool down and popped the cap on the coolant reservoir.

I found a tan colored foamy sludge in there, about the volume of a shot glass (maybe two).

Checked a sample of engine oil from the drain valve - no water or foam. Checked transmission fluid dip stick, it looked normal (no visible water).

I had the coolant system flushed when I bought the vehicle about 1 year ago. Mechanic used "universal" antifreeze.

Not sure if I have a chemical reaction in the system or a leak. Hope it is not a head gasket...

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Mon Aug 27, 2012 8:27 pm

First off
There ain't no "universal" antifreeze :dead:

You've got engine oil on the coolant :5SHOTS:

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Mon Aug 27, 2012 8:30 pm

I'm not sure about oil - I think a Glycol antifreeze mixed with the HOAT will cause problems - I think someone clogged a radiator with it.

when I had oil in the radiator - it looked like oil (oil cooler gasket blew)

racertracer · **Posted:** Mon Aug 27, 2012 8:32 pm

Do the 60 seconds pressure test to see if you have a head gasket problem.

and here is how.

1. Before starting the vehicle, remove the radiator cap to release any existing air pressure in the system.
2. Replace the cap, start the engine and let it run for 60 seconds.
3. Stop engine and remove cap.

If there was any amount of pressure (even a minescule amount) leaking from the bottle when the cap was first removed, then you have a head gasket problem.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Mon Aug 27, 2012 9:09 pm

Let me add, the testers that work on gassers and sense CO using a chemical, will not work on a diesel. So don't waste your time and money, any tech that tries to get you to believe the CO/chemical tester will work is smoking something besides tobacco or pot.

The quick rise in cooling system pressure that racertracer mentioned with a cold engine is the best way to test for a blown head gasket/cracked head.

kdlewis1975 · **Posted:** Mon Aug 27, 2012 9:25 pm

In general, all antifreeze is "glycol" since they are based on either ethylene glycol or propylene glycol. These chemicals are miscible with water and one another in all proportions.

The incompatibilities come from the additive packages. Silicates and OAT and HOAT don't play nice when they are put together. I had the pleasure of replacing the radiator in my Dodge van last summer because the radiator was completely plugged in about a third of its height. I suspect prior owner(s) just put whatever the could find in it rather than the required HOAT type.

I suspect the "universal" antifreezes have something in them that supposedly compatibilizes all of the ingredients, but I'm not inclined to trust them.

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fatweasel · **Posted:** Tue Aug 28, 2012 12:40 pm

Update: I put some of the foam in a vial with distilled water and the foam completely dissolves in the water. There seem to be some solids that precipitate to the bottom.

I am hopeful that this indicates something other than oil and I am leaning to an incompatible mixture of anti-freezes. I plan to flush like crazy over the next couple of days with water until I can get as much of this stuff out of the system as possible. Then plan to go back with MOPAR HOAT antifreeze.

kdlewis1975 · **Posted:** Tue Aug 28, 2012 12:57 pm

Good test.

Zerex G05 is also the correct antifreeze and NAPA often has it on hand. There are others out there, but other than the stuff from the dealer they're not commonly found.

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dgeist · **Posted:** Tue Aug 28, 2012 1:43 pm

fatweasel wrote:

Update: I put some of the foam in a vial with distilled water and the foam completely dissolves in the water. There seem to be some solids that precipitate to the bottom.

I am hopeful that this indicates something other than oil and I am leaning to an incompatible mixture of anti-freezes. I plan to flush like crazy over the next couple of days with water until I can get as much of this stuff out of the system as possible. Then plan to go back with MOPAR HOAT antifreeze.

Nothing like basic chemistry to ease the mind...

After you ensure you don't have an oil system leak (which is still worth checking), make sure you drain everything out of there (HOATs and OATs and barley, etc.) and refil with proper 50% HOAT+distilled (the Zere G05 is available pre-diluted, which is nice). After you run it for a while with that mixture, check for foam again. You might still get some. If you do, drain it again.

Alternatively you can pay for one of those radiator flush services (and you might need to anyway...), but a few extra gallons of G05 is much less expensive than that.

Dan

racertracer · **Posted:** Tue Aug 28, 2012 6:25 pm

Or you could always flush the system yourself.

I wouldn't add the new coolant in until the system has been fully cleaned and flushed properly.

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Wed Aug 29, 2012 7:22 am

What about running on straight distilled water for a day, flushing and repeating? (That 's what has been suggested for the Ford 7.3s.) When it is finally clear, put in the Zerex. This time of year there are no worries about freezing.

DOC

bugnout · **Posted:** Wed Aug 29, 2012 10:50 am

Thats what I did, ran straight distilled water for a couple of full heating cycles. Antifreeze is just that, keeps the coolant from freezing. As long as your not trying to do this in the dead of winter, no worries.

dgeist · **Posted:** Wed Aug 29, 2012 3:39 pm

Doesn't it affect the boiling point as well? Warm-up sure, but I don't know that I'd want to drive it around long like that...

But heck, Jed Garret did it with pee in his old chevy pickup in Red Dawn. It might be okay

ChooChooman74 · **Posted:** Wed Aug 29, 2012 7:20 pm

I am in the middle of flushing mine. I have distilled water in mine. Gonna keep flushing it with distilled water til clear.

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fatweasel · **Posted:** Thu Aug 30, 2012 7:50 am

Update: Completed the flushing and installed a new thermostat. So far so good - no foam after about 100 miles. Used the Mopar HOAT antifreeze (orange). An intial observation is that my engine temp is a little warmer than it was before this exercise. It comes up to temp fairly quickly and pegs out right about the middle of the temperature gauge. Before the work it was running between in the range between 1/4 and 1/2 on the temp gauge.

Question: What is the normal operating temp that most folks are seeing on your CRD's?

dgeist · **Posted:** Thu Aug 30, 2012 8:54 am

fatweasel wrote:

Update: Completed the flushing and installed a new thermostat. So far so good - no foam after about 100 miles. Used the Mopar HOAT antifreeze (orange). An intial observation is that my engine temp is a little warmer than it was before this exercise. It comes up to temp fairly quickly and pegs out right about the middle of the temperature gauge. Before the work it was running between in the range between 1/4 and 1/2 on the temp gauge.

Question: What is the normal operating temp that most folks are seeing on your CRD's?

Regarding temps:
viewtopic.php?f=98&t=64568

It sounds like replacing your thermostat was a significant improvement. Mine was just "two ticks" below half for more than a year before I finally replaced it and there was a world of improvement (economy improvement, faster warm-up, smoother in the AM after initial startup, etc.)

Foam in Coolant Reservoir

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