Hi guys.
I thought i own a write-up on my recent (not so anymore) mod when my Transmission cooler started to leak.
I basically by passed the existing cooler and fixed a replacement cooler just behind the front grill..
I used a large cooler 5 3/4 - 11 - 1 1/2
Yes its big, but it fits !

so here we go:

Cooler used: B&M Model: BM 70273. Size: 5 3/4 - 11 - 1 1/2
Ordered on Summit Racing for 60.95$


STEP 1:
Removed the plastic silver grill : clip out from the top and gently pull out. Watch out not to bend it or will break the lower clips that holds the grill (...yes , did it )



STEP 2:
Removed the plastic bumper: Remove screws from underneath the bumper, and unclip from the inside of the wheel passage. Disconnect wires of turning signals.


STEP 3:
This is where i choosed to place my cooler. I wanted the cooler to be fully exposed to the fresh air and to keep clear from blocking the radiator behind.


Step 4:
I did not insert the cooler like most of the people, from the top. The B&M 70273 is too thick to go through the top.
So i cut a hard black plastic bar, the second one from the right hand side. i cut it slanted that pressure will keep it place afterward and that i could easily glue it back...
That give plenty enough space to insert the cooler and put it in place. It went in horizontally, i had then to work to place vertical.



STEP 5:
Once you know where to place the cooler, take it out and mount the connecting hoses.
I worked with braded hoses and alluminium fittings.


STEP 6:
Trim the lower plastic in order to allow the cooler to fit. Less than an inch was enough
See how the plastic is trimed to allow the cooler to pass behind

STEP 7:
Fix the cooler to the hard plastic using 2 L shapes pieces (forgive my french )
The left hand side is easier to fix because of the small open window, but for the right hand side i has to use the small opening in the plastic to allow a small L allen wrench to hold the screw and allow to tighten.


STEP 8:
cut the hoses to the correct length. i did this with a metal saw.

STEP 9:
Cut out the stock hoses. i was surprised how little oil came out. but i quickly insert some rag in it to stop the flow.

STEP 10:
I used some standard connectors to connect back the hoses together. a few box at a DYI store.




STEP 11:
I decided to connect the inflow to the lower inlet of the cooler. My logic is that the oil being pushed up in the cooler has a tendency to spread in all the cooler circuit and give a better cooling effect... seems to work out well so far.

STEP 12:
I had to move the temperature sensor to the left of the hood hook. i found that it was too much surrounded with hot stuff to tell the truth with the new cooler next to it. An electrical connector (sugar ??), 10 inches of electrical cable and a small drilling made the job.

STEP 13:
Glue back the grill or just duck tape it.
Mount every thing back. (optional ... )

STEP 14:
It took about 10 miles to really get the correct level of cooling oil.(ATF +)
Drive- stop-check- refill- drive- stop-....

ok. now i know that some guys in AZ organised workshop where they were doing a KJ in 30mn......am obviously not that good .
It took me 16 hours...
most of the time was spent on figuring out where and how to place the cooler. But i think that gowing through the grill by cutting it is good.

have fun and pm me if needed
cheers !!

_________________
Silver CRD
ASFIR skid front & central elements, MOPAR gas tank skid - SAMCO Turbo hoses - 4 breathers extension
2006 gaser airbox - Frankenlift with Koni at front.
Airtex lift pump

Interesting idea and certainly cheaper than a factory condenser. Questions:
1. have you measured the performance using a thermometer at a center air vent? There is a writeup and performace data in the FSM for the stock system. My real world readings on a stock system are 45 and 48F at 75 and 95F ambient respectively which is a bit better than factory spec. I'm curious if your bypass is providing similar performance.
2. any special reason you did not pull the factory condenser and mount this in the same place? I would think that location might be better if only for a) more working room and b) it's behind the electric fan that helps provide extra air flow thru the factory condenser to improve performance. This might not matter if you are running a fixed flex fan that's engaged all the time.

Just curious. Assuming this work around has been in service for a while and is working well it might be a candidate for posting on the CRD Tech Page

_________________
Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Good comments, thanks.
1. I have just ordered an IR temperature gage...will take 2 weeks to check on real temperature.
2. I did not put the bypass cooler at the same place than the stock because removing the stock cooler require removing the entire condensor (i have been told so) and also quite a few parts on the top of the engine bay. the rest of the condensor has no leak and i wanted to keep it this way, so avoid to moveit around.
I also looked extensively for a cooler with a fan, obviously much better. i could not find one under 4 inches (Derale 15850) of thickness, which i did not know where to place. If you have a thin one in mind, I am buyer.

i will try to find the specs of the hoses and connections for reference.

_________________
Silver CRD
ASFIR skid front & central elements, MOPAR gas tank skid - SAMCO Turbo hoses - 4 breathers extension
2006 gaser airbox - Frankenlift with Koni at front.
Airtex lift pump

Opps; I think we have run into language/terminology problems. When you referenced "condensor" I assumed you were refering to the AC coolant condenser located just behind the electric fan behind the grill. Looking up BM 70273 and carefully reading both your posts I think what you are actually referring to is the transmission oil cooler located in the bottom of the radiator. Correct?

If that's correct then yes removal/repair of a leaky stock transmission cooler requires removal and replacement of the entire radiator; expensive and not terribly easy. Your solution was to bypass the leaky transmission cooler and install an aftermarket transmission cooler; a not uncommon solution and one I typically recommend.

That said, other than the likely terminology confusion, the install write-up is a good one.

As to the fan issue, no I don't know of any thin transmission coolers with a fan. However, you have installed an oversized transmission cooler in a good location so you should be fine.

_________________
Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Thanks again. when finishing the write up i realised the tittle may lead to confusion. I indeed replaced the trans.cooler
Am not sure if a moderator can change the "Condensor by-pass" into "transmission cooler bypass".... ?
cheers

_________________
Silver CRD
ASFIR skid front & central elements, MOPAR gas tank skid - SAMCO Turbo hoses - 4 breathers extension
2006 gaser airbox - Frankenlift with Koni at front.
Airtex lift pump

You can edit your post to change it yourself.

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http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
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