Hello - longtime reader, first time poster.

I have a 2005 Liberty CRD with 125,000 miles, purchased at 100,000 miles. Completed ORM as soon as I had the keys. Had some EGR troubles that resulted in a blown FCV last summer. Took that FCV off, it was >50% clogged and the motor to move the vane was busted. Installed the new FCV, and afterwards, the engine had a harsh HISSSSSSSS at high RPMs. This led to the purchase and installation of SEGR.

SEGR is wired properly and soldered well, but the vehicle still throws P0102. Went through troubleshooting with LocoRapido via email, and still no resolution.

Took the truck to a mechanic here in Indy for a checkup yesterday. He looked for boost and vacuum leaks and came up empty, but did say the boost hoses were "mushy" from oil and said they should be replaced soon. They also picked up the P0102 and wanted to replace the MAF sensor. I declined that - I know how to do that myself, and I figured it may be related to the SEGR. They put new tires on, cleaned the MAP sensor, connected the MAF sensor again, and changed the fuel filter.

Upon leaving the place, they had undone my ORM, and the jeep went into limp mode. I got home and undid the MAF again, and use of the turbo returned. However, the jeep still has considerably less pickup, and doesn't downshift when I stomp the accelerator, to merge or speed up. I didn't know if that might be the because the prior fuel filter was clogged, resulting in a downshift for power..... and the engine is responding properly now and I had just become unaccustomed to the acceleration from the downshift.

So - in summary - could a bad MAF sensor cause a code, even if the SEGR is wired properly? And would that bad MAF sensor cause loss of power, if it were plugged in, even through the SEGR's circuit trickery?

NOTE - I have not looked at the EGR on my jeep, so I don't know if it is faulty, but I'm not throwing any EGR codes. Only P0102 and P1263...but I'm not worried with the glow plugs at the moment and I'm concerned about the cost to replace them.

Any help is appreciated. PMs welcome, too.

Kind regards,

David

Welcome and if you have not already done so read Sir Sam's NOOB guide.

Comments:
1) given the mileage on this vehicle if the timing belt service has not already been done you need to do it or get it done like immediately as you are 25,000 miles past due and a timing belt failure is an expensive catastrophy
2) P1263 is #2 glow plug. The new metal kit (4 plugs and a controller) part # is 68090434AA. Factory Mopar Parts has the kit for $115.00 http://factorymoparparts.com/68090434aa.html Blacklibertycrd has posted a step by step on replacement. Note that replacement involves an ECM flash which MUST be done before the new glow plugs are connected to power. Dealers charge $100-150 for that flash or you can set those $s asside to start saving for a GDE tune which will cure most all EGR problems/codes and let you pull the SEGR if you wish.
3) P0102 is a MAF issue which might relate to the ORM or the SEGR, but I don't know anything about either, or it might be a bad MAF sensor or, see below.
4) mushy turbo>intercooler>engine hoses is a classic sign of totally oil soaked OEM hoses that likely have or will fail possibly with various codes and little to no boost. You need to pull both those hoses off the CRD and carefully inspect, particularly the underside, for cracks/holes/tears which can range from large and easy to see to small and not so easy. Replacements are ideally IMHO Samcos (http://www.boostcontroller.com/index.php?category=328) or 2nd gen OEM. NOTE hose leaks are almost always impossible to find with the hoses on the vehicle.
5) while you are at it check the airbox to turbo hose down by where it connects to the turbo for a tear or oil rot. Replacements are OEM for ca. $55

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Thanks so much!

1 - The mechanic checked the timing belt the other day and reported no problems - should I still change it?

2 - I have all the glowplug components here, I was just concerned about the cost of the flash. I feel better now and I'll get that done.

3 - The MAF code is present regardless of ORM. The code itself reads "low input" so I wonder if the low input means that the signal isn't even strong enough to register a value, therefore the EGR may not have any signal to modulate....Will have to wait and hear from some of the other guys on this.

4 and 5 - I will order a new set of hoses today.

My opinion only:
1) I am, personally, virtually certain the mechanic did NOT "check" the timing belt in fact my personal bet is the mechanic doesn't have a clue where the timing belt on a CRD is located to check it. I've got a decent 6-pack to wager that the mechanic looked at the visible serpentine belt, assumed for no particular reason, it was the timing belt and said it looks fine; not a bad thing but not on point (in fairness there are vehicles that have a TB that can be visually inspected). To inspect the CRD timing belt requires 1) removal of the serpentine belt, 2) removal or at least lifting of the fan shroud, 3) removal of the fan, 4) removal of a number of pulleys and such, and 5) removal of the 17 bolts that hold the front timing cover and removal of that cover. See http://colorado4wheel.com/content/KJ_TB.html for an idea of the process. Only then can you see the timing belt and anyone that is that far into the engine should AT LEAST replace the TB before backing out. The CRD engine is an "interference"engine which means that when it gets out of time (bad TB install, failed TB, stretched TB skips a couple of cam teeth) the pistons and valves WILL attempt to occupy the same physical space. If you are lucky the designed failure mode will occur and you will only have 16 X $68 pieces of the valve assembly to replace if you are not lucky it's more expensive. You need to trace back the ownership history of this vehicle to determine if the TB was replaced at 100,000 miles; that's the recommended interval although a few have been lucky and not had a failure past that point. Unless you are absolutely positive the TB has been replaced (certainly a prior owner could have done it somewhat before or after 100K) at a known point in time then you or a competent mechanic, another issue, need to dig into the engine as noted above in which case IMHO once you are in that far replace the TB anyway.
2) if you have the metal glow plug kit I'd install it as there have been ceramic glow plug failures that have caused engine damage (in fact I'm looking at doing so myself) but as noted be sure not to hook the metal plugs to power prior to the requried ECU flash or a GDE flash that includes the new glow plug power.
3) cannot help you with this other than I'd wait to see if it goes away with new hoses per #4, if not maybe a new MAF sensor? but best get input from others on this.
4) if your current hoses are mushy and wet with oil it's a good investment to just replace even if they haven't yet failed which is what I did.
5) no need to just replace, although you may want to have a replacement on hand, as it's easy enough to check the bottom end see the above link, scroll to the end, to see the failure mode of this hose.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs