You are moving in the right direction (on the job!) and are getting some good advice. You do NOT need to unlock the camshaft pulley nuts to do the timing, and rotating them back 5-6 teeth is OK, as that is ALL you are rotating, not the crank or the pistons. So if you feel heavy resistance, STOP. (You shouldn't) The same kind of thing happened to me on my timing job, the trick is to keep those pulleys locked together somehow.
I started at the top with the belt, and used the base of some drill bits that I slid to either side from the center (above the belt) until they jammed in against the belt, holding it into its teeth on the cams. I had the tool to hold the cams together, but you can do it with a big spring-clamp OR a set of locking pliers - WITH PADDING. (You don't want to hurt those cams!) Just use a little bit of rubber hose around the biting surfaces of the locking pliers, and apply them at the center point where the two pulleys are closest together. That will be more than enough to hold them steady while you are playing with the rest of those pulleys.
Now... Timing: You haven't moved the fuel pump, have you? If you have, or aren't sure... There IS a witness mark from the factory on these pulleys, on the crank, the cams, and the fuel pump pulley. The fuel pump should match with it's mark on the casing, at around the 10-o-clock position. That is the starting point, the two cams SHOULD point directly at each other, and those pins should lock right in. That is how you know you have that perfectly. The crankshaft should already be at the proper spot, the red line should be pointing straight up.
When you rotate the engine by hand the two revolutions to confirm belt tightness (like it isn't already tight enough!) if you bought the Gates brand belt, it might be just a shade short... The tensioner will be VERY difficult if not impossible to get into the "marker" position like shown in the instructions. This is OK, pull it as far as you can. I actually BENT my factory tool on that, before Keith told me that the position might be different b/c of the tension.
Back to the rotation - You rotate the engine two full revolutions, then re-evaluate the tensioner's position. Look at the witness marks... BUT IGNORE THE FUEL PUMP. It will NOT be at the witness mark, because it spins at a slightly different rate. If you started at the right spot, it will be correct., and it isn't as super-critical as the cams.
Good luck!
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) Around 3 in the afternoon the battle ended, and the wrenching began. (michigan weather equals anti-sieze on everything)
