I had the libby scanned to see what codes it was throwing and these two came up
P0245 and P0049 I know there are to do with the turbo/vaccuum but can some chime in here and lend a little bit more guiding light? where should I start looking to resolve the issue. there is a lack of power, and significant black smoke.
thanks

Welcome and if you have not already done so read Sir Sam's NOOB guide.

Not familiar with either of those codes and they do not show up in the FSM but given your symptoms I'd pull the turbo>intercooler>engine hoses, if OEM and carefully inspect for holes of any sort especially on the bottom. If holes of any sort are found Samco hoses are a good replacement and available to Canadian customers by phone in order to Boost Controller; 2n gen OEM hoses are apparently ok but not as good as Samcos. If you get Samcos be sure to check clearance prior to tightening hose clamps, Samcos lack factory witness marks to line up the hose so you may have to twist them a bit at each end to find the proper route. While the hoses are off check your airbox to turbo hose down where it connects with the turbo as the hose often tears there.

You might also check the boost solenoid for proper function by bypassing it. Drop me an email if you need to procedure with a picture.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

OK I am checking the hoses tnoight, i have been away for a couple weeks. I have been looking around the other vac posts and I have found there to be similar iddues with vac leaks throughout the CRD. Wondering if there is a sticky or something like this (sort of like the noob guide) to all identified vac leaks?

I have the oem service manuals i will look to see if there is any thing on that two codes and will post here

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Brian thanks and thanks to Tom I see you changed it...

I just looked in the oem manuals but they do not cover turbo's sorry i could not help

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Brian thanks and thanks to Tom I see you changed it...

Those are not valid codes. Can you check with another scan tool?

The closest error codes point to an overboost code (P0234) and short to battery of the VGT electric vacuum modulator (P0048) (has blue isolator and just behind the battery). It could be the turbo is always seeing full vacuum and the vanes stay closed. Based on the symptoms it sounds reasonable.

If you rev the engine in park and watch the control arm on the turbo (below actuator), it should drop at least a 1/4 inch or more. If not, then the VGT actuator and wiring needs to be checked/replaced.

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OK I checked the CAC hoses they are all good
I checked that hard plastic vac tube that runs underneath the coolant res. tank and that is good all the way behind the engine to the brake booster.
I tried swaping the vac lines as per papa and that did nothing?

GDE can you please be a little more specific (sorry I am new to the CRD thing) Is the actuator on the Tubo that "round metal thing" on the top of the turbo that has a vac line going to it? if so is there an easy way to see this control arm? I do not see any wiring going to this, although I suspect it runs from the components near the vac canister (passenger side).
And I was using a versus (I think that is the spelling) scanner from my buddies shop. but I will try another

OK I could not see the actuator rod moving when it was reved. but that does not mean it is not moving since that thing in incredibly hard to see behing the CAC hose and the heat shield et al.

Oh an another update,
I do not know if this adds to the problem, or if it is a result of the problem (boost issue).

While trying to shake things lose (thinking it is a stuck vane/actuator issue) I noticed that when I hammer it off the line the truck go's up to 3000rpm and no further until I let off (the tramission switches gears) and press the pedal again to speed up, and repeat for the following gears. If I accelerate normally it will go through the gears normally (just in a limp mode)
does this mean anything?

Fixed it
What we call a boost solenoid, jeep (at least in Canada) calls it a secondary runner solenoid. I traced wiring, tried all the mitchell test procedures turns out the solenoid was bad.

Here is the catch, the bypass test will not work unless theECM sees the 5V PMW reference from the BPS. you can bypass it as many times as you want it will never actuate that turbo. FULL STOP

So I did what any red-blooded Garage wrench turner would do...I opened that darn solenoid up...
After substantial effort I got that thing apart, as suspected it was a vacuum driven pintol style electonic actuator it self (think of an EGR here folks). What I suspect is that a couple pieces of debris entered through the filter and lodged inside the solenoid inhibting movement....no for the good part

I figured I could leave the libby in pieces so I reassembled the BPS and voila it worked. I still have one on order, but it solved the problem....

Thanks all