06 CRD starting problems

Larry mc · **Joined:** Sun Sep 04, 2011 2:57 pm **Posts:** 2

I was told that I wasw in the wrong place lkast time so hope this is right. Our 06 Liberty crd three times now has refused to start. Only after cranking on it on and off for 15 min or so will it suddenly fire up as if nothing were ever wrong. To big smoke cloud like it was flooded ,no raw diesel smell etc. When running it has plenty of pick up and runs smooth. Just talking with the local dealer he wants to replace the injector pump *ouch* A friend told us that jeep has had trouble with air leaks into the fuel system. He said some people have put a fuel pump in the tank to keep the air out of the system. One of my sons said I should spray a small amount of fuel into the intake to ruel out an electrical problem. Good little car and tows great behind our motor home when we winter in Texas. Thank you for any help you can give us.

Larry & Deb

Ajamant · **Posted:** Sun Sep 04, 2011 9:52 pm

Have you replaced your fuel filter assembly? The most common cause of air was the faulty electrical connection to the heater in the assembly. The new assembly addresses this problem with beefed up wiring.

Yes you are correct there is no fuel pump in the tank like most diesels so the fuel system operates on a vacuum which is more prone to air leak problems.

There are plenty of write ups on fuel head replacement and lift pumps.

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

Here is what will probably fix your problem:

1. Install an inline fuel pump that's output is less than 9psi. I have a 4psi kennedy lift pump that I have used since the vehicle was a couple of months old. The benefit of the Kennedy is that if it fails, it will still allow your manual pump pull fuel thru it.

2. Install a replacement fuel head. I personally prefer the Racor fuel pump with the omega fuel temp sensor. The racor model was what was on European export models with the diesel engine before the bean counters at Chrysler got cheap.

3. If you have original Optima battery, throw it out and stick with a cheap 1000 amp lead acid battery.

The first two should fix your problem. Please keep your CRD away from the dealership.....they are clueless idiots for the most part.

On second though, a facet lift pump seems to be a good option too based on what I've read and much cheaper than a kennedy lift pump!

racertracer · **Posted:** Mon Sep 05, 2011 4:35 am

When was the last time you changed your fuel filter, if it's been more than 12,000 miles then change the fuel filter and see if that doesn't fix your problem. It's the cheapest test.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Mon Sep 05, 2011 8:20 am

The first test for air-in-fuel is to open the hood and pump the primer a couple of times.
if you get air - somethings leaking - odds are very high it's the fuel head at the heater plug (that's why Chrysler redesigned it)

several folks are running the new fuel head without any other mods and it works - eliminates the weak spot around the heater plug where the original units fail, also comes with a new filter installed.
(Costs ~ $100 at MoparPartsAmerica - dealership would probably double that - 30 minutes install)

now a clogged filter can make a marginal system worse, and it only takes 1 tank of bad fuel to clog things up - although it generally starts easily and goes into a 'limp' mode at higher rpm - higher fuel demands.
(at least the couple of times I've done that - it always started easy - just wouldn't move)

a lift pump is a more involved fix - but it can fix a lot more issues - I'd try the simplier solutions first.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Sep 05, 2011 9:27 am

The 1st gen OEM fuel head has 2 electrical plugs. The driver's side is the noticably smaller of the 2 and is the heater plug. Prone to burn out a leaking fuel out/air in. The 2nd gen OEM fuel head has the same 2 plugs BUT the driver's side is essentially the same size as the passenger side one and that driver's side plug has a new wiring pigtail that typically has a bright blue cap to hold the wires in the new plug. If you have the 1st gen replace ASAP and be sure to get the new wiring pigtail at the same time. This switch cured my air in fuel problem.

To bleed. Pump the primer bulb on the fuel head until hard, crack the bleeder valve (looks just like a brake bleeder) on the opposite side to release air, close bleeder valve (snug not godzilla), repeat until no air. I am fond of being able to see and have minimal mess so I put a short piece of clear vinyl hose on that bleeder valve and route it to a small can or some such that way you can see any air coming out and catch any fuel too. Also be sure to use a brake bleeder wrench or box end to avoid rounding the flats on the bleeder.

If you get a fair amount of air during the bleed there is a decent chance you may have air in the fuel rail. If so it will take a while for that to work it's way out of the system and in the interim cause rough running or hard start.

If this solves your problem then I'd suggest rebleeding after a couple of tanks. If there is lots more air in the system you have a leak of air into the fuel lines between the fuel head and the tank. Typical solutions are to get rid of the fuel line quick disconnect fittings and/or install a lift pump. Lift pumps options include Facet or Mr. Gasket (cheap) or Kennedy (not cheap) in-line either in the engine bay or on a frame rail back by the fuel tank or an in-tank pump (not cheap and requires dropping the tank). I have none of these but would probably do in-line before dropping the tank which is why I have a Facet in my parts inventory.

retmil46 · **Posted:** Mon Sep 05, 2011 11:26 am

Definitely sounds like a bad tank of fuel and a badly clogged fuel filter, probably couple with an air leak. Had that happen to me a couple months after buying it new, before any mods. 50 miles after filling up, driving home at night and when i tried to give it more throttle to climb a hill, the engine just simply quit from lack of fuel. I had to crawl home at 35 to 40 mph to keep the engine from quitting due to lack of fuel - died on me twice more because of hills. Next day, you could start the engine, but even putting it in gear stalled it out due to lack of fuel, and on the third try it popped the infamous P0093 code and a CEL.

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

Yep, I had a bad tank of fuel that clogged 2 filters but only enough to trigger limp mode when I drove the vehicle hard...got a low fuel rail pressure code.

06 CRD starting problems

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