Had dealer do timing belt few months ago now I found my

nissanfrontier · **Joined:** Tue Dec 22, 2009 4:09 pm **Posts:** 145

CRD heater is not heating fast enough could this be thermo. Anything the dealer could have messed up doing thermo. They said all they changed was belt $970

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Wed Nov 02, 2011 6:13 pm

Nope, if your thermostat is bad then it was just its time, the dealer had nothing to do with that.

audiboy86 · **Posted:** Wed Nov 02, 2011 6:35 pm

Dont worry the thermostat isn't that bad to replace but they aren't cheap but if you buy them online you can get them way cheaper then directly from a dealer.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Nov 02, 2011 7:58 pm

nissanfrontier - your post is not quite clear. You ask if there is anything the dealer could have messed up "doing thermo" and the answer is yes but then you say all they did is the belt. Which is it? If they did the thermo we have had at least one forum member who had his cooling hoses misrouted on a thermo install resulting in no heat. If they did not do the thermo then it's certainly possible the thermo is failing in which case the typical symptum is the temp gauge never gets to normal (e.g. vertical or 1 tick/1 needle width left of vertical). On the other hand I don't know your location and current ambient temp. Down here the length of time to get heat vs. reaching operating temp varies quite a bit depending on ambient temp; obviously colder takes longer for both under normal circumstances but you still reach operating temp. If you reach operating temp but the weather is cold you need to plug in your block heater. If you don't know where that is look for a bundle of wires tied to your oil or ATF dipstick (if no bundle look for a flat set of 3 wires cast together coming out of the same area); undo that bundle and you will find a regular 3 prong plug at the end to plug into house current to warm or keep the engine warm on cold nights. FYI some like to put the power to this plug on a timer to power it up ca. 2 hrs before crank up.

Installing a new OEM tstat is no big deal but there are a couple of useful tricks to keep in mind if you want to drop me an email.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Wed Nov 02, 2011 9:54 pm

papaindigo wrote:

nissanfrontier - your post is not quite clear. You ask if there is anything the dealer could have messed up "doing thermo" and the answer is yes but then you say all they did is the belt. Which is it? If they did the thermo we have had at least one forum member who had his cooling hoses misrouted on a thermo install resulting in no heat. If they did not do the thermo then it's certainly possible the thermo is failing in which case the typical symptum is the temp gauge never gets to normal (e.g. vertical or 1 tick/1 needle width left of vertical). On the other hand I don't know your location and current ambient temp. Down here the length of time to get heat vs. reaching operating temp varies quite a bit depending on ambient temp; obviously colder takes longer for both under normal circumstances but you still reach operating temp. If you reach operating temp but the weather is cold you need to plug in your block heater. If you don't know where that is look for a bundle of wires tied to your oil or ATF dipstick (if no bundle look for a flat set of 3 wires cast together coming out of the same area); undo that bundle and you will find a regular 3 prong plug at the end to plug into house current to warm or keep the engine warm on cold nights. FYI some like to put the power to this plug on a timer to power it up ca. 2 hrs before crank up.

Installing a new OEM tstat is no big deal but there are a couple of useful tricks to keep in mind if you want to drop me an email.

indigo what is going through his mind is that he just payed a dealer a bunch of money to do the work and now something else bad happened. He is wondering if through some fault of the dealer it went bad now. I think the answer to that is no.

Remember correlation does not imply causation:

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Nov 03, 2011 6:00 am

Sam You are probably right.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Thu Nov 03, 2011 10:39 am

papaindigo wrote:

Sam You are probably right.

I am always right, I thought I was wrong once, but it turns out I was mistaken.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Thu Nov 03, 2011 2:29 pm

My thoughts are most people would change the water pump while doing the TB.

And some have had heater problems when the hoses were put in the wrong places in the thermsostat?

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Nov 03, 2011 3:36 pm

Messing with the water pump in a timing belt job, if it isn't bad... Is just asking for the job to take twice as long. The location of the water pump on our engines is just stupid, and getting it out is even worse.

On both my own CRD and on Lgoodbar's, who I just did his belt job, the water pump was rock solid without any movement at all, and no leaking. Ergo, we did just the belt on both engines.

I'm not one for ignoring something when it is legitimately bad, but at the same time, if it ain't broke... Don't poke at it.

Boss · **Posted:** Thu Nov 03, 2011 9:03 pm

Quote:

I'm not one for ignoring something when it is legitimately bad, but at the same time, if it ain't broke... Don't poke at it.

Good info, I just ordered the water pump as I am about to do the iming belt, I;ll be certain to check the pump before I R&R it. Thanks for the advise
Bria :shock:

n

nissanfrontier · **Joined:** Tue Dec 22, 2009 4:09 pm **Posts:** 145

So you say it is not bad to replace were is it located. I can change out 4.0 thermo no problem.

Wobbly · **Posted:** Sat Nov 05, 2011 3:13 pm

Viscous heater gone gunny sack or disconnected are possibilities.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Sat Nov 05, 2011 5:30 pm

nissanfrontier wrote:

So you say it is not bad to replace were is it located. I can change out 4.0 thermo no problem.

It takes me 5 minutes from start to finish on a 4L to change the thermo. This is nothing like that.

audiboy86 · **Posted:** Sun Nov 06, 2011 6:29 pm

It is on the top of the motor on the passenger side and will be on of the closets things to the radiator. The best thing i can tell you to do is find the turbo to intercooler hose and follow and you should run right over the top of it. It will be attached to the top side of the block and have a hose running to the top elbow of the thermostat itself. If i remember correctly it is held in by four bolts three of them are easily visible one is not.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Nov 06, 2011 6:52 pm

Ah yes, the thermostat swap.

T'was a horror story.

audiboy86 · **Posted:** Mon Nov 07, 2011 1:15 pm

It aint to bad you should try one on a mini cooper that is a pain. You have to remove the air box ECU and battery connectors. Before finally removing the thermostat housing and about half your coolant. Then it is time to put it all back together with a small silicone gasket that you have to put in and hold but can't see. While you reasemble it all and have to refill the coolant and work all the air out of the lines. So after I did the Minis that Jeeps was a walk in the park.

camo · **Posted:** Tue Nov 08, 2011 12:00 am

t-stat change, one of the few easy things to do on our CRDs

dirtmover · **Posted:** Tue Nov 08, 2011 11:17 am

Just finished doing mine on Sunday. Easy but fiddly and took a lot longer than expected.

Here are the other threads that I referred to:

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=53820&p=600743&hilit=thermostat+replacement#p600743
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=25852&hilit=thermostat+replacement

Here are a few tips I can add from my experience:

- You may wish to remove the skid plate to make retrieval of dropped bolts easier. Doh! This will also stop it from becoming a catch pan for the spilled coolant.
- I used a large under-the-bed storage container to catch the coolant spillage.
- I removed the airbox but left the intake hose on the turbo. You can just swivel it down a bit out the way.
- The CAC hose was left on.
- Use a small neodymium magnet in your socket to retain the bolts especially the lower back one that is hard to see/reach.
- After spending about 15 minutes trying to get the lower back bolt to thread I realised that my 3/8" drive socket was too bulky to allow it to enter squarely. Using a sleeker 1/4" drive socket it threaded first attempt.
- Carefully inspect the hoses. One of my viscose heater hoses was being eaten through by the engine cover.

Took about 3.5 hours. I could do it again in less than 2.

nissanfrontier · **Joined:** Tue Dec 22, 2009 4:09 pm **Posts:** 145

Ok did some reading online and someone mentioned checking fues 25? Controls hvac and tow package, battery charging? It is pitch black outside and cold or I would take a look.

quote 25-10amp-heatseatswitch/hvac controlhead/trailor tow battery charge

nissanfrontier · **Joined:** Tue Dec 22, 2009 4:09 pm **Posts:** 145

Also just did some more reading someone mentioned to make sure vacuum lines that actuate heat/cold doors at hooked up where are they located. I did go through air cold and hot and did not hear doors open or close. Viscous heater relay R36 what is Viscous heater lol searched online and nothing.

Had dealer do timing belt few months ago now I found my

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