35,854 as of today. I have quite a ways to go to get to 200,000.

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WK CRD, hot, OME lift, quadratec hard rocks, duratracs, MBRP DPF back exhaust,

SOLD-2006 Red CRD Sport 4x4. Hot, Fumoto, Weeks stage 1, ARP studs .
SOLD-2006 blue CRD Sport 4x4. Eco, Fumoto.

Only 152,000 miles on it as of today.

Bunch of little problems such as #3 glow plug replaced 3 times (all others are stock ceramics),AFC valve replaced and then disabled, new tranny/tc at 105k miles, front right axle replaced 2 times, and turbo is whistling pretty loud.

I'm gonna miss her when she dies. Not sure what I can get hat gets 25mpg and can tow 5k lbs and has incredible 4x4 system. Any suggestions?

I was thinking of another 07 or 08 CRD Grand Cherokee but I really like the smaller and more nimble size of the KJ.

I was wondering how the shortest bed cummins diesel pickup extracab would be? Mileage still north of 20 with mild AT tires, and can tow 20k lbs. I saw what looked to be a short bed cummins 2500 ram the other day, and it was new enough to be a CRD with the killer mpg's

The only thing that will part me from my KJ is the need to tow more, and maybe my need for a serious snowplow. Probably just get bobcat though

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

Ram EcoDiesel 4x4. The 4wd is not as good as jeep's (and honesty which vehicle 4wd is...), but it comes in 4wd auto - which is full time for crd (if you choose), or the standard 2wd, 4wd part time and 4lo.

I get consistent 26-31 mpg, depending on wind and road conditions, about 27.5 highway commute to/back work, 12 miles highway. On 55 mph roads I get 31-32 with no wind. I'm sure I'll drop couple mpg once I install the bfg ta ko2 tires.

Edit: or wait for the Colorado dmax and see how reliable is, it it makes more sense to get something comparable in size with the crd.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

I am at 245,000 and still running strong. The biggest expense so far has been the transmission going out at 200k. Other than that it has been running strong with no major issues I'm getting about 32mpg to and from work mostly highway miles. I have had to replace the #3 glowplug two times. Other than that just regular maintenance.

Just an FYI, I went from a 275/55R20 factory tire to a 275/60R20 Wrangler Duratrac on my truck and didnt see a difference in mpgs. If you stay about the same size you may not see a difference.

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

278,000 miles as of today.

Wow. Any major work done during those miles

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2005 Crd Silver Limited- arps, rockers, 7v etechno's, egr deleted, v6 airbox, metal cac's. Yeti's stage 2 tune. Euro TC, Ram tcm, pml transmission pan, facet lift pump

I thought these motors were scheduled to self destruct every 100,000 miles.

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

Didn't you know?
These things were equipped with a self destruct button.
But you have to push the button in order to keep it from self destructing.
The hard part is finding the button.

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U.S. Army Retired

I bought mine at 91K and now at 105K. But I have found "no self destruct" button already! Just look at my signature for the button address.

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'06 Liberty CRD Limited. Bought at 91K miles.
ARP studs, New rockers, Stant inline tstat, Weeks 1&2, Provent, IDParts Silicone hoses,
2-1/2" Full OME lift, Timing belt, Water pump, TransGo kit, Plastic fan, Fumoto
2nd gen fuel head with 2nd stage 2 micron filter, in-tank lift pump, G2 Rear Diff Cover

ok I'm going to correct my self , these motors are not scheduled for self destruction after 100miles but they do need need a doctor surgery in order to survive . or may need some medication from GDE. ?

Your kidding right?

Actually I wasn't. Lol
I think it is possible to have at least one maintence/repair free jeep in this bunch

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2005 Crd Silver Limited- arps, rockers, 7v etechno's, egr deleted, v6 airbox, metal cac's. Yeti's stage 2 tune. Euro TC, Ram tcm, pml transmission pan, facet lift pump

187k. Looking forward to crossing the 200k mark. Also looking for a diesel mechanic in southern NJ.

I am afraid I have no idea what MX has to be done at the 200k mark, so I'd need someone who knows what these engines need. Any advice would be appreciated.

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Steve

Current
05 CRD - Betty
Pioneer x6500
Memphis Speakers
GDE Eco Tune

Past
1998 Wrangler Sahara - J'quan
Alpine iDA-X305
Infinity Kappa
Line-x Body
Undercoating
Two piece hard top

2000 Jeep Cherokee
Clarion
Infinity

Pretty much all the same stuff that is due at 100k miles.

Timing belt, water pump, coolant flush, transmission fluid and filters, front and rear axle oil, transfer case oil, etc.

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U.S. Army Retired

Just under 172K My ODO is currently 10% off (Every 100 miles on the ODO is actually 110 miles). There is a guy in the next town over with over 200K.

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2006 Sport, GDE FT Eco Tune, Custom Trans Tune
2015 Ram 1500 Big Horn EcoDiesel, GDE Hot Tune

Talked to a few diesel mechanics, said these need their valves and lifters looked at as well. A cleaning of the air intake, EGR, wondering if all this is accurate, and what else is needed.

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Steve

Current
05 CRD - Betty
Pioneer x6500
Memphis Speakers
GDE Eco Tune

Past
1998 Wrangler Sahara - J'quan
Alpine iDA-X305
Infinity Kappa
Line-x Body
Undercoating
Two piece hard top

2000 Jeep Cherokee
Clarion
Infinity

It would be a good idea to remove the intake manifold and inspect the rockers and lash adjusters.
Then you can also clean the intake and delete the EGR.
It would also be a good idea to install ARP head studs.

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U.S. Army Retired

My 2005 has just turned over 200,000 miles. It overheated and blew the head gasket (again, 2nd time) a while back, so Geordi just came by to install the ARP studs and see if that'll fix it. Yes, the head bolts were the OEM torque-to-yield bolts, and yes the torque needed to remove them varied all over the map.

While in there, he did the timing belt job even though the existing one had only 50,000 miles on it. Don't know yet if the HG is fixed, as it takes a few heat/cold cycles to burp all the air out, but got all my fingers and toes crossed.

The Hayden fan clutch seems to have worn out, so a new one is going in as soon as I can get out there to work on it. And it appears that the OEM thermostat (number four, for anyone counting) has failed closed, which I didn't think they were capable of doing. Engine heats up, IR thermometer reports the top side of the thermostat is at 212°F while the top radiator hose no more than 6 inches away is running 118° to 135°. So I'm ordering one of those this afternoon, too.

Soon's I get those issues done, it's time to replace all the vital fluids.