1. Cold engine, remove radiator cap, open petcock at lower passenger side of radiator with 14mm open end wrench and let waste coolant drain into a catch basin (recylcle coolant at a proper recycling center). The coolant will take approx 30 minutes or more to drain through a very tiny orifice.

2. Remove upper 5/8" viscous heater hose, point hose down and away. Protect electical connectors from water spray with a plastic baggie tied around connector or use dielectric grease at connections.

3. Direct water from garden hose into viscous heater orifice and let it flow for 10 to 15 minutes. Water should come out clear.

4. Stop water and let drain.... this will take a while.

5. Close petcock and replace heater hose on viscous heater.

6. Add 1.63 gallons of Hoat Coolant, (Zerex G-05 or the OEM stuff from the dealer).

7. Add distilled water to top off radiator.

Heater should work a little better now.

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

I was told I need to pre mix the coolant with the water. Thoughts?

Also is the distilled water just bottled/mineral water or is a bit more special than that?

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2005 Jeep Liberty CRD (55 000 Miles)
GDE Eco Tune - Distributer for Southern Africa.
Running better then when she was new - Thanks to LOST

I just poured it without mixing.

Your local grocery store or Wal-mart will have distilled water in gallonjugs for under a dollar.

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

Never mixed coolant prior to install since my first vehicle in 1965 never really worried about tap water vs. distilled/demineralized water either although I am aware that lots of folks do pay attention to the latter and that Xerex pre-mix uses demineralized water. Never had a cooling system problem.

That said now that demineralized water is easy to get I'll probably start using it. NOTE - typical bottled water (ex. Dasani) and mineral water are a definite no no as that stuff often has minerals added. As racertracer notes what you want is available most anywhere just be sure what you get says either distilled or de-mineralized.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

I just used straight tap water too .... I was being politically correct. Properly.


Here is a good email I just received that I thought would be a good question to answer here:

"I've been thinking about doing something like this but by using the
Prestone Flush-n-fill kit, which I've used in the past including on Dodge
Cummins. My thought was to install the flushing "T" in the heater line
running from the viscous heater to the heater core and the out flow where
the radiator cap is on the plastic firewall tank.

Hence some questions:
1. did you close the lower passenger side petcock while flushing?
2. if so where did the water come out?
3. if not I assume the water flushed out thru that petcock, correct?"


a. Don't mix coolants use HOAT.... there are members who have unknowingly mixed hoat with oat coolant and created a jelly in the cooling system. There are pictures of this in the forum, do a search.

There is always a possibility that flushing the cooling system doesn't get all of the old coolant out and for this reason don't mix cooalnts. Refill/replenish with Hoat specified coolant. $14.99 vs $12.99 gal at NAPA. I wouldn't take the chance.

b. Flushing Tees tend to leak..... mine did after the system reached high temps, the hard plastic tee became mushy and distorted after a while. Our diesel can run hot on occasion..... I wouldn't trust it, and splicing the hoses, makes room for leaks where the splicing and joints occured.

c. No I didn't close the petcock while flushing.

d. Allow water to come out of every opening ... even the twist cap on top of the radiator, open that one too. A good way to flush and clean the radiator is via this cap, gently remove it by twisting it upward and direct a gentle stream of water in there. Continue flushing untill the coolant that has been dripping out of the petcock comes out clear. Turn off the water and let all the cooalnt drain out via the petcock, close the openings when it's done and fill the coolant bottle as I mentioned above.

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"