Quote: However I would really recommend you have the proper tools, and if your thinking about replacing the water pump you NEED to have them. The cam pulleys are a press fit and there is nothing that keeps the pulley timed to the cams.
 Crap, typical though, all the reading I did prior to doing this job, and I didn't notice the mention of the three special tools. Unfortunately for me I kept getting distracted by posts like "disconnect the fuel heater" "clean the MAP sensor" "SEGR" "ECO tune"
Now that I see that the cam gear lock is for not only holding the cams in position while replacing the belt, more importantly it holds the gears while the nuts are torqued.
I wonder why the FSM is laid out in a such a peculiar fashion: For instance removing the inner timing belt cover is described before removing the outer TB cover. This is my first Mopar vehicle so I don't know if the 2005 Jeep Liberty FSM is typical, but I am not impressed by this book which cost nearly $200.
By the time I read this much in a Ford FSM I knew how air-conditioning worked, and OBD, Just sayin, have other mechanics questioned the layout of the FSMs? Instead of listing the page number the book suggests we refer to section 9 - Timing Cover Inner. which wouldn't be terrible if they had an index, sigh. Some pages are filled with this gibberish: refer to 7 - Viscous Fan Clutch Removal, so much so that they never get to the point of making it clear where anything thing is. I'm disappointed in the Mopar FSM.
Anyway, I am to the timing belt, it wasn't too bad to get to, certainly easier than a transverse engine tranny job. I haven't been a mechanic in over twenty five years, in case you're wondering about my expertise. I have for fun put a OBD TBI 4.3 liter Chevy V6 in a Mercedes Benz 240d creating what I called a Merchevy. That was back before I knew the value of a diesel engine obviously. My point is I know how to mod. My speciality was electronics, now that is as far behind me like the mechanic job.
It seems like I will be making some tools today, Let me read through your write up Sir Sam and see if there is a picture of the two cam lock tools.
One problem I'm having is the skid plate has one bolt that won't come out. I can tighten it with an impact wrench to try and reseat the insert, but it still spins when I back it off, It is the drivers side rear nut. I am assuming that is exactly where the flex plate hex key crank lock pin hole is. 
Actually the Jeep has been very nice to work on, I'm not complaining just looking for the smart(er) way through this.
Brian Rodgers
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not geared up enough 
thanks everyone 