nissanfrontier wrote:
Think bearings are fine and decoupler is ok, changing out brushes going to get it working?
If the brushes are worn, it should work with the other stuff good.
If you want to do a first class job when you have it open:
1) Test the diodes with a 12 volt power source like a 12 volt battery and a test light, OHM meter can lie to you.
2) Disconnect the diodes from the Stator and rig up a test light (use old fashion non CF bulb) that uses 120 volts to test the insulation of the stator. Connect one lead to the steel laminated plates and the other lead to the winding leads. The 120 Volt test light should not light up. To test the test light, the light should light up when you test by touching the leads together.
3) Do the same with the rotor as described with the stator above. This trick is a poor man's Megger tester (like AC motor rebuild shops use) for the alternator.
4) Think twice about not replacing the bearings, they are cheap, just don't buy cheap parts store brand made in China junk. If the bearings are made to a major bearing company's specifications and has their name and part number on the seals, chances they are OK. If the Box says Ducka Wok Foo (or worse) and even the box is crappy cardboard with no name on the seals, tell them no thanks.
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