im actually at 90K right now so yea I know its time for a belt. Is the t-stat a pain to change so I could at least just get it over now an be able to keep planning out this belt change or who I will let do it.

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**His** 97 TJ 4" Clayton Shortarm lift - Dana 30/44 Dynatrac Axles Trac-Lok 4.56's - Bilstein 5100's - GY DuraTrac 33's on 15" Soft 8's - much much more and built to crawl
**Hers** 05 KJ Limited CRD w/ many plans

It's not a pain if you have the right tools and patience to do it correctly. Remove the air box.

Be careful not to over tighten and strip the bottom left bolt.

I’d flush the system while you're at it.

Let it all the old coolant drains out.

Open the petcock at the bottom of the radiator with a 14mm and continuously flush the system with water by sticking a garden hose on the top inlet of the viscous heater. Doing it this way clears out the heater core really good and all the sludgy coolant in the engine. I let the water run for 30 minutes. Then closed the petcock, reattached the viscous heater hose and filled the reservoir with the specified HOAT coolant and water.

The old coolant may look clean and retains its cooling characteristics but it gets sludgy.


I finally got quick heat in the cabin again, changing the thermostat didn't increase how quickly my cabin heat came on, flushing the cooaling system did.

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

Were does one get HOAT? Something Advance parts might have? My jeep heat is barely working but motor is extra cool

NAPA has Zerex G5 that is correct for our vehicles
Everyplace else seems only to carry traditional green or a one size fits all
http://www.valvoline.com/products/brand ... ifreeze/42

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

General comments:
1. HOAT - as mentioned Xerex G-05 NAPA or from Amazon online or you can get Mopar HOAT at a Jeep/Chrysler parts counter. Don't let anyone sell you anything but HOAT as others have had serious problems mixing coolant types in our engine.
2. Changing the tstat is no big deal but I would not do it as a routine part of a TB change. If your temp gauge reads straight up or about 1 needle width left of center when fully warmed up then your tstat is working fine. If it reads below that (from just above 1/4 to a click and 1/2 left of center) the tstat does need replacing.

See viewtopic.php?f=98&t=56398 for an easy way to open the radiator drain petcock. There is mixed data on our cooling system capacity. My personal opinion is the capacity in liters (12.5L) is correct which translates to 13.2 qts so if you refill with 6-6.5qts of undiluted HOAT and then top up with water that should get you close to a 50/50 antifreeze/water mix. On refill at least crack (or remove by opening to 4 o'clock and pulling up) the vent on the top passenger side of the radiator to purge as much air as possible from the system; once fluid starts to come out close that vent; continue to fill the plastic tank until a bit above the mid mark; drive about 20 miles; let engine cool and check fluid level which should drop a bit as air is purged, refill as needed.

4 Tstat bolts - one on top to a bracket, 2 horizontal into block of front of tstat and visible, 1 invisible into block on lower back side of tstat. On that back one use a long 1/4" extension to remove/install as a 3/8" extension binds and you may cross thread the bolt on install. Keep track of where those bolts came from so they go back in the same hole as there is some length difference.

EDIT - I goofed on the OEM tstat bolt pattern, it's 1 top/1 horizontal front/2 horizontal rear and the bottom rear is the hard to reach one.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

How much tap water does this leave in your system? You likely need to add a stronger HOAT mix to account for this. Conventional wisdom tells us that tap water is not good for cooling systems. Are we getting enough of it out after the flush for this to be a non issue?

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Share your ideas freely at https://www.facebook.com/groups/libertydiesels/

Just flush every 24 months or 30000 miles, and nothing to worry about.

Make sure that after you turn off the water, you continue to let all the water drain out of the radiator via the petcock.

The draining process is time consuming because the orifice is very tiny.

Patience if a virtue here.

I just left it open to drain over night, and in the morning when it stopped draining I closed the petcock, replaced the hose on the viscous heater, filled the system with 1.65 gal of HOAT coolant from the dealer and the rest with distilled water.

You will notice that the cabin will now get toasty warm real quick.

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

about how long in the winter months till the cabin gets warm?

Interesting stuff!

Depends on a several factors including ambient temperature; viscous heater plugged in or not; garage kept or not; block heater plugged in or not; driving local vs. hwy; and condition of tstat. Assuming a Tallahassee low of mid 20s to upper teens F not garaged; block heater plugged in; w/without viscous heater; good tstat I get detectable heat almost immediately and signs of life from the temp guage within 1-2 miles and a hot cab in 5 miles or so. Same conditions but with tstat failed partially open I get detectable heat almost immediately but the cab takes longer to get hot and of course engine never reaches operating temp.

Normal 80-90F summer weather temp gauge activity within 1/2 mile and full operating in about 3 miles.

All this on local streets max speed 45mph with average more like 20mph

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

It;s too hot now!!