MrMopar64 wrote:
Just to help everyone on this a little...
56044671AA was the P/N used for the original ceramic kit of equipment for 05/06 model years.
56044671AC should be the P/N used for the 2007MY KJ, which came with metallic glow plugs as standard.
The 68090431AA is a new GCU which supercedes the 56044671AC, since it's not anymore in production.
The 4671AC and the 0431AA are functionally equivalent, so if you have either one you should not be affected.
Also, during the pre-glow phase it is correct that you should see 'battery voltage' (10-12V) at the glow plug, so no need to be worried.
The biggest issue that it sounds you're having (nursecosmo) is that the PCM flash hasn't been updated.
If you have the glow plugs cal for ceramic plugs in the ECU, but metallic GLP installed in the engine, the issue is that they won't pre-glow to the proper temperature (they will be cold) and then you will have poor start-ability. For the long run, you need the updated flash and the cold start will be fine; however, you can do multiple pre-glow cycles (even if you don't see the light, key on for 1-2 seconds, key off and then immediately key back on) and after 2-3 cycles it should start much better than cranking for 30 sec at a time.
I would ask the dealer to see the P/N of the ECU flash with the DRBIII and check that it's been updated.
Hope this helps some of you...
Thank you for your comments MrMopar64, however your info is a little off. Both the 56044671AA(which the 05,06 CRDs shipped with) and the 56044671AC (introduced circa F-37 recall time) are both specified for 7volt ceramic glow plugs
ONLY. This information is per the Chrysler parts fiche and per TSB 08-005-11. Both 56044671AC and 68090431AA are supposedly in production (according to the Mopar specifying department). 56044671AC is sold only for vehicles with ceramic plugs and 68090431AA is supposed to only be for metallic plugs. The shipping boxes for the metallic spec units even have 68090431AA stamped on them but the part inside is the old unit.
My ECM has the latest flash as verified by my Innova code scanner which is 68090471AA, If it had the old 7 volt logic as you suggest, it would do the opposite of what you described. It would cause the plugs to run hotter than specified(7V>5V) and starting would be a cinch.
I've tried giving the GP's extra time to heat up and it seems to make a slight difference if I wait at least ten seconds to start but I haven't tried the multiple on/off trick you mentioned, hopefully it will make starting easier.
It may be that all of the various incarnations of the GPM work exactly the same for translating the PWM signal from the ECU into current to the plug and the difference lyes in the how they read resistance to indicate a bad GP. I don't know the answer to this and no one can give me a definitive answer. It isn't in any Bosch manual I can find. Perhaps when I finally get my new starter all my troubles will go away.