Some of you may remember my post from September about my misfiring 06 CRD (http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=62621). I took it to a local independent mechanic who indicated I have a mechanical (not fuel) problem, but wasn't willing to go further on it, as he didn't have the tools for this engine. I asked him if he knew anyone. He said that he had reached out to some of the other mechanics in the area that he trusted, and none of them wanted to take it on. I then took it to the dealer who refused to take the diagnostics I had already done seriously, and then proceeded to charge me $250 to tell me that I had a mechanical problem. The dealer then suggested that for $3500 they could tear things down, but they weren't willing to make any commitment that I'd have a working vehicle $3500 later.

I'm still angry. I'm not sure what the board etiquette on such things is, so I'll leave it at this: if you're in the Spokane / Couer d'Alene area, and you want advice on which dealer to NOT go to, send me a PM. Also, if you're in the area and you have advice on someone competent who could work on it, by all means let me know.

Anyway, I figured for $3500, I could by a complete set of VM tools, and a lot of parts. So two months later I finally got the garage emptied enough to limp my CRD into it.

Tearing this thing down and fixing it is now my winter project. I've done a wide variety of mechanical work, but I've never actually taken apart the engine itself before. Other than taking my time, and taking *lots* of pictures as I go, does anybody have any advice? Things I should specifically do / not do?

Also, are there any special tools I should make a point to get from the get-go?

Sir Sam will have a few things to say about it.

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

download the service manual

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2006 Black Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
K&N, Samco Hoses, Michelin 245/70-16 LTX A/T2, Fumoto F-102, V-Force Muffler, Mopar, Hitch, Trailer Wiring, Skid Plates, Slush Mats, Rear Shelf, Predator Stage 1, Transgo, ORM & CodeReader, Facet 40109 Pump
"IT'S A DIESEL THING, YOU WOULDN'T UNDERSTAND"
Certified Services Auto & Truck Repair

So I've been reading the worthless FSM, as well as reading the various TB instructions. Given that I'm pretty sure I have trashed rockers on the 2nd cylinder, I'm assuming that something is wrong with the timing. Thus most of the "as long as the timing is okay" comments don't apply to me.

Of the various specialty tools, which ones do I *really* need? (Note that I have a lovely collection of various bearing and pulley/sheave pullers.) First one I've noted is the FSM says: Remove fan blade/viscous fan drive assembly from water pump using special tool 6958 spanner wrench, by turning mounting nut counterclockwise as viewed from front. Threads on viscous fan drive are RIGHT HAND. Another post mentioned the Lisle Pneumatic Clutch tool (http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-43300-Pneum ... B000JFJLTC), while the GDE PDF instructions suggest just using a really bit crescent wrench.

The FSM also mentions tool 1089 to lock the engine to 90 after TDC. I get the impression from the GDE timing belt instructions that a 6 mm allen wrench can do the trick -- any reason this isn't good enough? What about locking the exhaust and intake cam shafts? (Tools 1052 and 1053). There's a lovely blurb in the FSM that suggests that if things are timed properly, these can be installed. I'm expecting to find that I can't in fact install one or the other I attempt to do so. I think these may be important to me.

Generally, I'm willing to buy a set of tools if that's a cheaper than buying them onesie-twosie. Any recommendations on a good place to find a set? I've poked around the net and on ebay, and I'm coming up empty on a complete set. I did find this one that looks promising http://www.lasertools.co.uk/item.aspx?cat=702&item=7127, assuming I can figure out a way to get it in the U.S.

Given I'm going to remove the cam shaft sprockets, it looks like a 1085 is definitely required. I've seen the metal plates, as well as the wooden wedges. The 80 foot pounds of torque makes me reticent to use the metal plate approach (afraid I'd nick the teeth of the sprocket and get premature belt ware), and I think I'll get too much slop with wood. Thoughts?

Will I actually need a 1055 to remove the cam shaft sprockets? Any suggestions for alternatives? Anybody have the dimensions on the pins for 1055? I'm hard pressed to believe I couldn't weld something up that would do the trick.

Is it possible to remove the cylinder head cover without taking apart the AC? I don't have any AC tools and I really don't want to just let the refrigerant out into the atmosphere.

That's probably enough questions for now. Tomorrow, after I've put the chains, winch, and snow blower on the tractor, I guess I'll start by draining the radiator, and trying to get the fan off.

And one side note, does anybody have any notion why the FSM invariably has a diagrams with lovely arrows and numbers, but the text never mentions what the hell most of the labeled items are? What's the point? Am I missing something, or are these almost completely useless? If there is a way to link the numbers to something meaningful I'd truly love to know.

I was dumb enough to shell out $200 for the FSM when I bought the rig. I get service manuals for all of my equipment. The Chrysler manuals are the absolute worst manuals I've ever seen. Seems pretty clear to me they really don't care whether anyone can work on their products. Grrr.

For what it's worth:
1. All FSMs and other similar manuals are written by someone who knows exactly what to do for a similar audience then translated into some obscure foreign (different language than when 1st written) language, randomize, retranslated into Linear B and then translated back into English. This process must never involve proof reading or any effort to make the manuals usable to someone who doesn't know exactly what to do to start with. AND this process is used by all companies not just Chrysler so there I've said it.
2. Depending on your location there may be members nearby with expertise and tool sets that can help so where are you?
3. Sir Sam is the one to talk to about dealing with removal of the head and replacement of trashed rockers but FYI if you need a set of rockers see viewtopic.php?f=5&t=63838 That includes your AC question.
4. There are a variety of methods to remove of the fan. Yes the fan unscrews counterclockwise just like normal but some of the pulleys have a reverse thread as noted in the TB writeups. I have and have used the Lisle tool; it's not perfect but in combination with a 16" screwdrive to help hold the fan base in place the fan came right off (10 minutes to figure out we needed that screw driver, 4 min to get it in the right place and 1 min to remove fan). Otherwise same screwdriver, really long wrench, and big hammer.
5. Miller tools can be rented from GDE or see #2 above. There are options, posted on the forum, to the cam locking pins that can be made from bolts of the proper length and thread and a long 6mm allen key can be used for the flywheel per GDE and illustrations in the FSM but how that works for an out of time engine I'd have to ask Sir Sam. I'd personally be reluctant to remove the cam sprockets without the Miller tool not so much to protect teeth but more because the Miller tool will hold the sprockets together once removed. That brings up the need to get a good marking pen, preferably white, to witness mark everything's relative position, even if your timing is off there is a good chance that it's slipped (Sir Sam again) at the crank maybe only 1 tooth or so and the cams and such are in their correct location relative to each other but unfortunately not relative to the crank hence trashed lifters).
6. I don't think you need that 1055 tool as I believe it's only use is related to the injection pump sprocket which should not need to be removed in a TB job.
7. I'll bet a really good 6 pack you downloaded the 2006 FSM. Don't ask me why but to have everything you need download BOTH the 2005 and 2006 FSMs. The 2005 lacks info on the CRD cooling system and the diagnostic text but does have illustration keys for everything but cooling. The 2006 has the diagnostic text (published in separate documents in 2005) but lacks the illustration keys. While you are at it get the parts documents also.

Best I can do for now, hope it's some help.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

The Bentley manuals for VW suck more than the KJ.
As a rule, the manuals are written to scare owners into taking the vehicle to a dealer. Most of the techs figure out on their own how to do the job and only refer to the FSM to get values like torque specs and clearances.

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

Interestingly my CAT, Komatsu, and Kubota manuals are all much better. Perhaps they just translate them to ancient greek instead. Or perhaps the manuals are better when the expected service life is longer. Or perhaps this is just a mystery of the universe never to be understood.



You'd almost win that bet: I bought a 2006 manual actually. Sigh.

Thank you thank you thank you! This is an incredibly useful piece of information. I will snag a 2005 manual ASAP. Picked up the parts document a few weeks back.


Absolutely. The tip on the 2005 FSM alone is incredibly helpful. I appreciate all the advice.

I applaud you efforts.

my guess you need the timing belt changing tools. the pins to lock the crank, valves and gears..yes all of them.
my guess is most of the rest are basic hand tools, but flex head wrenches my be usefull..a set of torx/allen screw adapters to sockets.
good lighting..don't ask how many torx/allen wrench I lost working on my wife Jeep changing the CP3..they just fall into unknown spaces..I spent 3 hrs looking for one before buying another..yea..that lost.

what about tools to adjust the valves? are they?
glow plugs? are you thinking about new metal ones? why not your up to your arm pits into this engine and the 7V plugs are gone..

just some thoughts

-dkenny

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84 BB school bus, DD8.2L turbo ->the transmission died..too expensive to fix..it'll be heading to the scrap yard..4/11)..Bus gone to Scarp 8/23/11
06 Liberty CRD
'99 dodge ram 2500 quad cab, 4x4, 24v
all Biodiesel powered when its warm enough

Don't applaud yet -- I haven't actually done it, I'm still in prep mode.

I've got a couple different sets of allen wrenches. I also have a bin where I keep all the random "free" allen wrenches that come with various put-it-together-yourself items. Depending on the size, I've got them in spades.

Hadn't really thought about adjusting the valves. I suppose I'll have too.

w/r/t GlowPlugs, I was thinking I'd get the new Etechno (spelling?) ones I've been reading about. I'm so pissed at the dealer I have no desire to go anywhere near them, much less give them money for a firmware update.

I guess I'm figuring there are a lot "might as well while I'm in there" sort of items:

New glow-plugs
New thermostat
New hoses (both air and radiator)
Maybe new water pump as well

To my knowledge, all of this stuff is fine, but it's all got 80k and 5, soon to be 6 years on it. I figure if I'm in there, I might as well.

timing belt?
tensioner pulley

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84 BB school bus, DD8.2L turbo ->the transmission died..too expensive to fix..it'll be heading to the scrap yard..4/11)..Bus gone to Scarp 8/23/11
06 Liberty CRD
'99 dodge ram 2500 quad cab, 4x4, 24v
all Biodiesel powered when its warm enough