Advice on Brakes

rob40wilson03 · **Joined:** Sun Jul 10, 2011 9:43 pm **Posts:** 51

Hey guys,

I didn't see a sticky (or any in-depth thread at all) about brakes. My fronts are squealing pretty bad even though there's plenty of pad left (?). It doesn't bother me too bad except when I have the windows open, in which case it's extremely annoying. So I'm thinking this winter I'll replace them. Here's where I need some help from you guys.

-Should I replace the rotors as well?
-What's the best route to go? OEM or aftermarket?
-If aftermarket, what kind have people had good results with?

Thanks for all advice/opinions!

Wobbly · **Posted:** Tue Nov 29, 2011 7:30 pm

These pads have worked well for trailer towing (including the time my trailer brakes got disconnected in some mountainous terrain) and they don't make too much dust:

http://www.axxisbrakes.com/extended_duty.html

al_was_here · **Joined:** Sun May 22, 2011 12:47 pm **Posts:** 6

I bought a pads + rotors kit from Ebay(drilled and slotted rotors) and I am very satisfied for what I paid ($200 w/free shipping)

It figures when I got my jeep last december, the outer pads were in good condition but for some reason the inner pads were pretty bad; I didn't have too much money when my pads started grinding and the rotors weren't too far behind so I figured this kit was going to be my best bang for the buck.

So far I put around 5k on the brakes and couldn't be happier; the only minor issues I have is a slight squeal in the mornings; usually on nights with lots of humidty (lasts about the first 10-20 seconds of driving) and every once in a while I get a small squeal when braking softly, but I find it normal and it doesn't bother me.

As far as braking ability: my braking is improved greatly; I feel like I can brake hard and stop on a dime; but then again I had a few bad pads to begin with; so obiously it will be better.

If I were to give advise on changing the rotors, If you can find replacement toothed washers, buy them before doing the brake job; I didn't know that is what holds the rotor in place so I had to resuse the old one and had to be very careful taking them off(mine had one toothed washer per rotor and none in the rear rotors)

patmaz · **Joined:** Sat Jan 01, 2011 2:52 pm **Posts:** 134

One major problem of the liberty is brake caliper sticking.

Take of the caliper,clean and lube the slider pins,and replace the pads holder metal clips,wich rust,move and rub against the rotor,im 100% sure it is your problem.

rob40wilson03 · **Joined:** Sun Jul 10, 2011 9:43 pm **Posts:** 51

patmaz wrote:

One major problem of the liberty is brake caliper sticking.

Take of the caliper,clean and lube the slider pins,and replace the pads holder metal clips,wich rust,move and rub against the rotor,im 100% sure it is your problem.

Thanks! I will check this out. Where can I get those pad holder clips? and any particular lube I should use?

patmaz · **Joined:** Sat Jan 01, 2011 2:52 pm **Posts:** 134

Well,any autoparts store should have the holders kit,for around 20-25$,as for lube i use anti-seize brake lube,the grey stuff wich you can get at the same time for around 10$ or less.

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Thu Dec 01, 2011 3:29 am

Most antiseize gets too stiff. Use Permatex dedicated slider lube. Also, be sure to remove the slider sleeves. They grow over time and jam the pins in the bore. Use plenty of lube and they will not rattle. Use new slider boots.

DOC

nissanfrontier · **Joined:** Tue Dec 22, 2009 4:09 pm **Posts:** 145

Just pick some up Advanceauto with the online coupon VISA 40 bucks off and free shipping should be able to get all new parts $125. I am running wagner themoquiets inexpensive with there own $25off mail in rebates. Try bleeding out brakes really good, I found like a celephane clear plastic came out lines, DOT 3 fluid is what you want.

Wobbly · **Posted:** Thu Dec 01, 2011 3:26 pm

I picked up a brake reservoir cap at a wrecking yard, then epoxied a schrader valve in the center of the cap. Using an air line regulator to reduce air pressure, I pressurized the system and then opened the bleeders in order of their distance from the reservoir.

Another method is to install speed bleeders with check valves. This also allows one person bleeding.

Another method is to use a hand operated vacuum pump.

A 2x4 wedged between the seat and the brake pedal will also work.

Or for some quality time with the significant other, get him/or her to pump the brakes as you issue masterful commands from under the Jeep.

Advice on Brakes

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