Newbie needing guidance

gmz105 · **Joined:** Sun Dec 04, 2011 3:39 pm **Posts:** 13

Hi Fellas:

I'm new to the Jeep CRD scene. I have experience with VW TDIs, Various tractors and marine engines. I recently bought an '06 Limited CRD after my Golf TDI was demolished. I was pretty happy until about a week ago. I am hoping someone can steer me the right way. I have been lurking on the forum since getting the Jeep in August, you seem like a nice bunch of guys.

First the vehicle appears to be completely un-modded, Its got 80k on the clock. I have read through some of the Mods and don't see any of them on the vehicle. I plan to do the EHM this weekend.

Second (the story) I received a CEL last week for a MAF sensor. I reset it a couple times using my scan tool but it continued to return. So I replaced it. At the same time I cleaned the MAP sensor, it was pretty bad. The vehicle ran terrific for about 2 days. I had to fuel up so along with about 15 gallons of low sulfur fuel from Royal Farms I dumped in a bottle of SeaFoam. I drove back to work ~2 miles. In the evening, after work, the jeep almost stalled in the parking lot. Then while driving home the CEL came on again. At the same time I had no power from zero until I could get the RPMs to about 1500 then off like a rocket and smoking badly (kind of unsafe if you ask me).

When I got home I scanned the codes and got P0402, P0101, P0401, P0299. (all pointing to a stuck EGR)
I reset the codes and test drove, worked fine no hesitation, no huge smoke cloud.

Went out today at lunch to check how it was and again almost stalled in the parking lot, scanner tells me codes P0402, P0101, P0401, P0299 are pending.

Speculation:
--The EGR is actually stuck and I'm boned. Can you direct me to directions to change, I looked couldn't find them.
--The MAP sensor got screwed up when I cleaned it and can't regulate the boost pressure.
--The Seafoam brought the fuel into the crap range and the engine is choking on it. I have burned almost a quarter of a tank already and when I get to a half will re-add to improve the ratio

So any advice?

Lastly to add insult to injury I am in the middle of changing the window regulator piece. Seems to me that this car has held back all its know problems just for me. I had hoped it would have been as reliable and predictable as my VW. So far its much worse.

Thanks, Greg

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Dec 07, 2011 4:31 pm

First off read Sams NOOB guide if you have not already done so.

Second the window regulator is a Jeep KJ problem not a Jeep CRD KJ problem but the Steiger kit takes care of the problem. If you have the windows with the ball stud that the Steiger instructions say to bend parallel to the ground that's ok as far as it goes but it's hard to see. Once you slide the stud retaining clip back in take a close look at the top and bottom to confirm that the clip is even on both sides of the stud; run the window up and down like 5 times each; and double check clip position. If you don't the clip may pop off the stud later, don't ask I know.

As to your issue it sounds to me like you either have bad turbo>intercooler>flow control valve hoses (pull them all the way off and carefully inspect for tears/holes/soft spots - if the hoses have a woven sleeve on them they are likely 1st gen OEM and over due for replacement with 2n gen OEM or a better replacement IMHO with Samcos from Boost Contoller) or, perhaps more likely, a bad boost pressure solenoid. Shoot me an email, not a PM, and I'll send you boost solenoid test instructions with a picture (I don't know how to attach a picture to an email via the forum. FYI there has also been at least one case of the P0299 code being from a melted vacuum hose and notes on that are included in what I can send you.

Don't know about SeaFoam, love it for gas engines but never used it on Diesel.

Unless you know the vehicle's service history I'd strongly recommend a radiator flush and refill with Zerex G-05 or Mopar Long Life antifreeze; transmission flush and refill with ATF+4; and an oil change with a good diesel rated 5W-40 synthetic oil like Mobile 1 or Shell Rotella T-6 (ideally use an oversize oil filter like WIX 51515 with 7qts of oil or if you use a stock size filter 6.3 qts - there are a number of reports of inaccurate oil dip stick readings and if you overfill it just blows out the CCV valve into the system). I recommend the fluid exchange as this vehicle REALLY doesn't respond well to mixing fluids or use of not-rated fluids.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Wed Dec 07, 2011 4:58 pm

0299 and 0401 together can mean bad/stuck EGR, but the 0299 could indicate just a burst boost hose, since its free and free and cheap and free you should pull both hoses and carefully inspect them for rips.

Failing that you can try to remove and clean the EGR to see if that fixes it.

also running the ORM will help prevent this sort of thing in the future, if its intermittent and your not actually loosing boost from a stuck egr then the ORM ought to solve the problem untill you need to have the CEL light off(like for an emissions test or inspection)

And unless you cleaned the MAP with a hammer I doubt you damaged it.

gmz105 · **Joined:** Sun Dec 04, 2011 3:39 pm **Posts:** 13

Hi guys:

Thanks so much for the info, I will attempt to inspect the turbo hoses tonight.

Once I get this straightened out I will begin the mods. (ORM, EHM, etc..)

One thing to note, I did change the oil filter and added the Fumoto. I did so because the dealer swore they changed the oil, that'll be the day I trust them (no offense to anyone). Anyway I probably added to much because I assumed my dipstick was accurate (how the hell did they botch that up?). I was pondering the EHM and pulled the hose from the CCV (puck) just to see. Well it was bubbling with all the extra oil. Its been quite a while since the change so I'm sure all the overage is already gone. I'm sure it contributes to rapid hose deterioration but shouldn't damage anything else, correct? (I hope not!)

Again thanks for the direction, I will post back once I get some details

Regards

naturist · **Posted:** Wed Dec 07, 2011 6:15 pm

Welcome from another TDI (too) owner. For what it is worth, it appears that the codes for bad/stuck EGR can be produced by either/both the flow control valve (in the intake manifold) or the EGR valve in the exhaust gas. My 2005 had the exhaust one replaced 3 times before the intake one was replaced at 11,000 miles.

If you replaced one of them, it may well be that the problem lies with the OTHER one. At the same time, I'll second the "look at the hoses" suggestion. The originals were not up to the task. You might also consider replacing the fuel filter. It seems to have much less capacity in reserve than the one VW uses. It is supposed to be replaced every 25,000 miles, but real world fuel has lead me to a routine 18,000 mile replacement schedule.

Please don't do a simple EHM. Do it right and add a Provent to catch the oil vapors. 80% of the pollution an engine puts out is coming out that crankcase vent. Please don't dump that into the atmosphere.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Dec 07, 2011 6:42 pm

When you pull the hoses to inspect them be sure to check the airbox to turbo hose down where it connects to the turbo. That's where excess oil pools and tends to rot the air intake hose on the bottom. It's a dealer only item but not too pricey. If you do have to replace it be very careful with the clamp at the air box end; it's really easy to not have the clamp fully on the outlet and to crush the outlet (don't ask)

gmz105 · **Joined:** Sun Dec 04, 2011 3:39 pm **Posts:** 13

Hello Fellas:
I'm just reporting back on my issue.

Pulled the turbo hoses and they look fine with one oddity. Washed them in hot soapy water and inspected. The oddity was that the drivers side (outlet?) hose was covered in oily grime. Nothing else in the area was covered just the hose. I suspected a crack but like I wrote nothing found. Perhaps it was a loose clamp or the dealer put used hoses on it and I didn't notice. Weird.

I do have more clues for the clue pile. While driving home the other day rocketing off every start with a huge puff I decide to stop and pull the MAF. I did so restarted and all was ok, no rocketing no huge puffs. Drove back and forth to work the following day (40 miles mixed type) with no strange behavior. The MIL stayed on the whole time. That evening I cleared the errors and the MIL went out. Drove back and forth to work again, the MIL came on as soon as I started. checked the code and all it was was a P0102 (MAF error). Its been a few days and no other issues.

I did reattach the MAF and all the symptoms returned (not the MILs yet). Maybe the new MAF is haywire.

I suspect that my EGR is stuck half way and the engine can't detect this without the input from the MAF. Anyone know. Anyone have any luck actuating the EGR with an outside signal? How is it controlled with a PWM signal? I plan to research this today.

Lastly regarding the turbo hoses were the OEMs silicon inside with a EPDM(?) outside. Mine are orange silicon inside and standard auto black outside. Were they all like this or did DC change? They are labeled FlexFab 2006. I plan to research this today also.

I'll post back if I come across anything. I might experiment and put the MAF back on to see if the issues return.

Many Many thanks for all the guidance so far.
Greg

patmaz · **Joined:** Sat Jan 01, 2011 2:52 pm **Posts:** 134

First,yes the orange insde/black outside hoses are the original dealer ones.

Second,when you unplug the maf,you cancel the egr function,here on the forum there is the sams noob guide wich explain everything about it,so you can drive with the maf unplungged until you clean the egr or change it,some folks here run that way all year long,without problems,just have to ge use to the check engine light.
It will come back even if you clear it everyday.

The big difference is less smoke,less intake build-up,cleaner map,engine sounds a bit more noisy,more like a truck sound,and a bit more mpg,so overall its a proof that the stupid egr system is the worst thing to put on a diesel engine,its just another emissions regulation thing,wich causes more problems on the long run.

And if you can,do the EHM mod,this will help to keep the intercooler and turbo hoses clean,and then also,less smoke behind you!

And if you ever want to change your hoses,there you go buddy!

http://www.boostcontroller.com/index.php?category=328

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun Dec 11, 2011 2:29 pm

If that oily hose was soggy with oil on the outside then it's weeping oil thru the hose itself and may have a number of small leak points. Based on what happened with respect to your problem when you pulled the MAF sensor you might want to talk to Keith at GDE about a tune. I know the tune substantially reduces the use of the EGR but whether or not it does what's necessary to "cure" your issue I don't know.

As to EGR cleaning see viewtopic.php?f=5&t=62495

audiboy86 · **Posted:** Sun Dec 11, 2011 5:04 pm

Contact this man he is our greatest asset to the tuning and understanding these little CRD engines. GED his name is Kieth he is very helpful and extremely knowledgeable just take a moment and shoot him and e-mail or even call him.

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