I have read somewhere that it is possible to remove the manual fan on our engines and rely on the electric fan only. Does anyone have any feedback on this. I have never towed with my rig and I have no plans on doing so. I can only remember the electric fan turning on since I've owned it. Will this free up any HP?

You could remove it and might be good idea if you live in colder climate. You then will need to add electric fan that somehow reads the coolant temps and kicks on automatic. If you are in AZ I would leave stock fan in as you need all cooling help you can get. I bet motor would be quiet without the fan music when first starting up.

pretty sure LibertyCRD was running around Kentucky without the mechanical fan and GDE says they take it off for the Winter - put it back for the summer.... and it does get better mileage that way

watch your temps...


(the electric is tied into the AC - mechanical is air temp > 200F - if the fan clutch works)

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2005 CRD
stuff
Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur

So the current electric fan doesn't kick on with engine temp? It turns on when the ac turns on only? I am in the high south 3000' and up so temps aren't usually an issue, especially this time of year.

Mine has been hanging on the garage wall for 5 years. No issues, but I live in a cold climate

ps: I don't think the fan ever worked from day one.

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06 LIMITED 100000miles, MAGNAFLOW, HOMEBUILT CCV FILTER, POLAR PAD, 02 AIRBOX, CUMMINS LIFT PUMP, SEGR, PILLAR GAUGE POD, CAT FILTER MONITOR, SPYDER TRAX, ALWAYS A LITTLE TWO STROKE OIL OR BIO, WATER/METH INJECTION

I removed my mechanical fan back in September and have not had any issues. We did have a week where temperatures were in the 80's and the temp gauge never went past the straight up position. I towed an enclosed trailer one day (about 3000#) and I always have about 1000# of tools in the trunk. No problems.

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My collection of CRD's:
2005 Deep Beryl Green Pearlcoat
2006 Light Khaki Metallic Clearcoat
2006 Inferno Red Crystal Pearlcoat
2006 Midnight Blue Pearlcoat
2006 Gold Limited
2015 Black Ecodiesel
2015 Black Ecodiesel 2

And then one fine summers day you decide to go wheeling....

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Cherokee 2,5 CRD: sold - Wrangler TJ 2.5: gone - Touareg V10 TDI: new toy

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when I bought my CRD, I negotiated a 'full tow package' for free into the deal; wiring kit, hitch, and upgraded cooling package, all MOPAR. When I got the Jeep home, I started instilling the bits, and found the upgraded cooling package is for the V6 gasser, as every CRD has the parts already installed at the factory. I put the kit back in the box, and stuffed it away in the garage for a rainy day/spare parts.

Because the CRD and V6 upgraded cooling package are the same parts, does this mean the ligher-weight nylon cooling fan from a standard V6 is reverse compatible with the CRD? I plan on removing my mechanical fan from the CRD when my XJ is back up after an injector swap/relearn, but would there be an advantage with running the V6 fan in the summer? Less rotating mass and all that?

The other addition to this subject I have is this...

I just removed the XJ's mechanical fan setup, including bracket, and installed brackets from a ZJ and 2.5L XJ which allows me to bypass the AC compressor. I then installed a 13" electric cooling fan from a 3.0 Ford Taurus into the mechanical fan shroud on the XJ. The fan setup is fully autonomous, being activated by a thermostatic switch from an older BMW, on at about 203F and back off at 194F. Now that winter is setting in here in MN, I only kick the primary e-fan on while idling around parking garages, and my secondary (factory condenser fan) has yet to engage, meaning temps have not reached 220F yet. This may be an option for those who need that primary fan for summer use, but don't want to spend the summer turning that heavy mechanical fan assembly.

Looking at the thermostat assembly, there is a flat area on the bottom that could easily be drilled/tapped for the installation of the BMW switch. Would this location be in the "hot" area before thermostat opening?


There is also another BMW switch that has a low (196F) and high (210F) setting, which could be used in conjunction with a two speed fan setup.

Thoughts?

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-Rich
It must be air in the fuel!

Yes. But when the 'stat is at full temperature, that area (small round circle) has no (minimal) coolant flow.
But this probably doesn't matter.

Ok, how do you remove the fan? I decided to do it but not sure exactly where to start. Thanks

To removed the mechanical fan check the forum for timing belt change writeups as there are a bunch of thoughts on how. Short version: fan unscrews counter clockwise as viewed from the front but to unscrew it you need a long wrench/a big "hammer"/something to keep the fan pulley from slipping (geordi and I used the Lislie fan clutch tool that I own with an air hammer and a 16" screwdriver); once the fan is loose put something between it and the radiator; unclip the things running across the fan shroud top; look down both sides of the fan shroud for a small bolt on each side/undo those bolts (NOTE-the retaining nut is loosely held in a housing and easy to lose so be careful; complete unscrewing the fan and carefully lift fan/shroud together out of the engine bay.

FYI for future use some have left the fan shroud off entirely; some have cut the shroud in 1/2 horizontally just below the bolts and only reinstalled the top 1/2; and some have done the Aussie mode at http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/sho ... hp?t=76201 All designed so future work in that are does not require fan shroud removal.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Can someone save me a bit of reading here. If I understand correctly the fan hub is threaded and you are just unscrewing it from the shaft. When you remove it the drive mechanism, pulley, clutch etc will stay in place and are still driven by the acc belt? Is the clutch actuated by temperature or is it electro-mechanical?

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I followed GDE's advice and removed the mechanical fan (It's the nylon one and I'll put it back come spring) and shroud completely, cutting the air intake from outside and partially blocking the front grill. . no change on temp, slight gain on MPG, especially at this time of year, with winter fuel and colder weather.

About fan removal, I use a 14 or 15mm spanner key and stick the open end in one of the holes of the fan mount, and stick a bolt & nut through the closed end and top engine bracket. With the fan immobilized, you can now use the big wrench and BFH to loosen the fan nut...

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RIP 10/31/2012
Green Metallic 2006 CRD Limited
GDE Hot tune ~ Pre-F37 TCM ~ Transgo shift kit ~ MagnaFlow ~ Homemade Provent ~ OME 2" lift & Airlift ~ Samco ~ Euro TC ~ Lift pump ~ Nylon fan blade & Hayden clutch ~ Etc!

dirtmover - the fan screws to the hub (see pictures 3 and 4 are viewtopic.php?f=5&t=51618&hilit=fixed). Yes it unscrews, see previous post, from the hub but I wouldn't say it "just unscrews" as it is on there REALLY tight from the factory hence my "big hammer" comments. The hub and serpentine belt stay in place and what comes of is the fan and the clutch bolted to the front of the fan hence the need to pad the radiator (see saga at viewtopic.php?f=5&t=64137). The clutch is engaged by a, I suspect, bimetal spring based on the temp of the air flow past the radiator. The stock clutch is a known failure point and kicks in at too high a temp so if you have the fan out it's a good idea to replace the OEM clutch with a Hayden 2905 heavy duty clutch (cost ca. $40 via Amazon)

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Good idea.