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The hardest part of replacing the fan clutch is removing the shroud, and in doing so I unknowingly poked two holes in my radiator (probably with the plastic shroud). I didn't realize it until I got everything put back together after replacing the fan clutch. I had to take it back apart after discovering the leaks.
Removal of the radiator is challenging. First remove the shroud, fan and clutch assembly. Empty the radiator by opening the valve at the bottom passenger side. Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, overflow hose, and the CAC hose from each side of the intercooler (the silver radiator-looking thing in front of the radiator). Remove the three bolts (all 10mm) from each side of the radiator top cross member, and the two bolts that hold the hood latch mechanism to the bumper. The cross member and hood latch mechanism with cable attached can be picked up and positioned to lean against the driver side fender. No need to remove the latch cable. Next pop off the top plastic latches of the grill cover, and lean it forward to remove the bottom latches. Remove the star screw from each turn signal and let them hang, and remove the single 10mm bolt that holds the plastic pieces below each head light. Now you can create some space between the grill and CAC intercooler. No need to remove the grill components or mechanical fan attached to the front of the intercooler. There is a long (~2") 10mm bolt that runs through a rubber grommet and attaches the intercooler to the frame on each side. You've got to maneauver through a rubber shroud to get to the bolts with a socket. Its a tight fit, but once you get the bolts removed, the intercooler is loosened.
On each side of the radiator bottom is a peg and rubber grommet. The peg fits in a hole in the frame. The radiator and intercooler are connected together with hooks on the radiator and latches on the intercooler. These are located about 5" from the bottom on each side. You can push the top of the radiator towards the engine to see these connectors. Now that the intercooler is loosened, it can be gently picked up about 1.5" to raise the latches off of the radiator hooks. (I cut off half the length of the radiator hooks before I reinstalled) While raising the intercooler, use your third hand to slide the bottom of the radiator off the latches. I also removed the hold-fasts and pushed aside as many hoses as I could. The radiator should finally lift out of the engine compartment.
Now for radiator repair or replacement. I first ordered a new radiator from the internet, and was sent an intercooler. The intercooler is mislabled as the radiator in the Jeep parts manual and at all of the parts dealers. I next explored getting my radiator holes repaired because another forum member said he had it done for $60. Two repair shops told me it could not be welded because of the plastic side chambers. The third place said that I was in luck because the holes were in the middle of the fin area and away from the plastic. It still cost me $100, but they did it while I waited.
Installation is the reverse of removal (but easier). I bought two gallons of concentrated Zerex G05 from Napa ($17 each) and mixed it 50-50 with water. Total coolant replacement is 13 quarts, but my system only took ~11 quarts.
One more thought. While I had everything apart, I decided to replace the hard to access lower radiator hose with a new Gates hose ($45). The original hose is thicker and has an internal spring support. The Gates hose does not have the internal support. Although my original hose looked fine, I still replaced it because of the 185k miles it has seen.
Hope this helps anybody who tackles this job.
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05 CRD Sport, Inferno Red (240K miles, Jan 2016)
Westin Brush Guard, Hella 500, Hidden Hitch
Magflow Muffler, ProVent CCV, Fumoto Valve, ORM
OEM Skids and Rails, EVIC, Mr Diesel Fuel Pump
Michelin XTerrains 235/70/16
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