shudder while stopping. Help!

ribak · **Posted:** Mon Nov 28, 2011 5:37 pm

I have a problem, which seems quite common - my CRD produce noticeable shudder while stopping. As far I understood from previous topics it is U-joints wear that does it. My question is which u-joints are those and where they are located? May be part number?There is one on the main drive shaft and two on both wheels drive shafts. Please help to clarify - I want to know what I am doing before starting this repair. Thank you all in anticipation.

nursecosmo · **Posted:** Mon Nov 28, 2011 8:45 pm

The CRD only has a u-joint on the drive shaft. The front axles have CV joints which function similarly but are sealed inside a rubber boot and are usually replaced as a complete axle. As far as your "shudder" when stopping, it doesn't sound like a U-joint or CV joint. CV joints will usually produce a clunking sound when the wheels are turned all the way to the right or left at low speed. Bad u-joints make a clanging noise when shifted from drive to reverse or back when in a stationary position with the brakes engaged. Sometimes U-joints which run at a shallow angle (like our Jeeps) will freeze up and produce a vibration at certain speeds but it usually occurs both accelerating and slowing down. For a shudder when stopping, look to your brake rotors as the primary culprit.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Mon Nov 28, 2011 9:09 pm

you have 2 ujoints on the driveshaft and they don't always make "clanging" noises - sometimes they're just frozen and don't really move - which tends to cause vibration - you also have a slip joint at the end of the transfer case - it can clunk - it's worth taking a Saturday and changing a couple of Ujoints (~$20 each at NAPA) and greasing the slip joint.....it's helpful to have a ujoint press (or a close machine shop) in case the ujoints don't want to move.

ribak · **Posted:** Tue Nov 29, 2011 12:59 am

Thank you for the good points guys, but it is definately not drums. The ramble/shudder happens right after the stop and it is getting worse - I had stalled a couple hours ago because of this shudder.

Sometimes the ESP light comes on!? The shudder occurs about 40% of all stops. What possibly could it be? Other than this the Jeep runs good. Please help.

nursecosmo · **Posted:** Tue Nov 29, 2011 1:18 am

Ah. Your earlier description that it happens as you are decelerating led us to believe that the problem was in the lower drive train. You really need to read the codes. If the engine is dieing after a stop, it could be many things but a bad U joint is not one of them. Just for fun check your transmission fluid level(with the engine running of course).

ribak · **Posted:** Tue Nov 29, 2011 1:36 am

This shudder starts a moment before the stop and right after the stop. The oil level is right on (checked several times). The engine and transmission works well except this annoing shudder... The Jeep only has 79000 kms on it.

dritchie · **Posted:** Tue Nov 29, 2011 10:05 am

Sounds like your torque converter is not unlocking.

ribak · **Posted:** Tue Nov 29, 2011 12:32 pm

"Sounds like your torque converter is not unlocking."
Any solution to that problem or just change Torque Converter?

Thanks

Radman · **Posted:** Tue Nov 29, 2011 1:21 pm

Does it always do it or only sometimes?
I have a sticking caliper that produces similar symptoms. I replaced the drivers side caliper at 85000KMs and now the passenger on is binding at 93000KMs.

ribak · **Posted:** Tue Nov 29, 2011 1:35 pm

No, not aways - about 40% of the time. But could the sticking calipers cause stalling and also shudder continues a bit after the complete stop!?

nursecosmo · **Posted:** Tue Nov 29, 2011 3:42 pm

ribak wrote:

No, not aways - about 40% of the time. But could the sticking calipers cause stalling and also shudder continues a bit after the complete stop!?

No.

Radman · **Posted:** Tue Nov 29, 2011 4:51 pm

Another thing to check is the fuel filter and filter head. If sucking air or filter blocked you will get shudder. However it is usually more apparent under hard acceleration, although under acceleration the pump is pulling more pressure so may be enough to get the fuel flowing. Worth a look if filter is old....

arm300 · **Joined:** Fri Mar 25, 2011 9:09 pm **Posts:** 12

I also have this problem. It just started recently. I did not have this problem all summer. Only now when temps over night get into the 40s or below does it start to shutter when I go the the first stop sign from my house. Once it warms up no problems.

ebbnflow · **Posted:** Tue Nov 29, 2011 10:02 pm

If this happens to you after your 1st or second stop when the engine is cold, it is caused by a drain back issue with the transmission spin on filter and/or your front pump in the tranny needs to be fixed or replaced.

Mine did this often. It was finally fixed after I used the transgo shift kit to fix the pump and changed the spin on filter with a tranny flush.

This is also a good time to upgrade your TC since you have to remove it to get to the pump.

dcast812 · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2011 9:07 am **Posts:** 3

Mine was doing the same thing it was the torque converter. New suncoast tc and transgo shift kit is being installed I should get it back tomorrow. I'm so glad the dealer included a warranty that covered it all!

dirtmover · **Posted:** Wed Nov 30, 2011 8:47 am

dritchie wrote:

Sounds like your torque converter is not unlocking.

It should always be unlocked below ~40mph and even to go that low you would need to have O/D off.

To see if it's locked watch your rpm while you decelerate below 40mph. Does it remain proportional to your speed (TC locked) or when you apply/remove a small amount of throttle does the rpm peak/trough (TC unlocked).

click23 · **Joined:** Thu May 11, 2006 9:22 am **Posts:** 309

I had this problem once upon a time, it mostly happened right after start up , coming to a stop at the stop sign a hundred yards down the road. My wife thought I was something I was doing, because it happened to me almost every time I drove it, and almost never happened to her. I realized that when she got in the jeep she started it up, fixed the mirror, adjusted the radio, fiddled with her stuff for work, put her sun glasses on, etc,etc, and then put it in gear. For me, I started the jeep up and off I went. I learned to sit for just a minute in the jeep before I put it in gear, and the solved the problem.

On a couple of occasions, I actually stalled the engine trying to stop it, and it got to a point as soon as I touched the brakes, I could tell if it was going to happen or not. If it was, I simply knocked the shifter up into neutral.

My personal thought on this has to do with those transmission filters that had the bad or missing anti drain back valves, but as for specific reasons I am not sure.

ribak · **Posted:** Mon Dec 05, 2011 8:09 pm

The problem is getting worse and I still did not figure out what is wrong with my transmission or torque converter. The CRD runs well at steady driving or when accelerating, but shuddering bad while rolling to a stop or braking. It is not drums or u-joints. It seems like transmission did not slowing down/shifting down right... And it does not matter much if the CRD cold or hot. I would blame TC, but reading the forum I believe that faulty TC causing the shudder at speed or while towing. My jeep does not shudder at speed. What may be wrong? Please help. Thank you all.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:30 am

Comments/thoughts some kind of basic so bear with me:
1. you mention that the "ESP" light occasionally comes on which suggests perhaps the stability control system is doing something odd. So have you tried pulling an stored codes or maybe try turning the system off (p 131 of the Owner's Manual) to see if that makes any difference? This light can also come on when stopping if you press the go pedal and the brake pedal at the same time and doing so could cause shudder.
2. you mention that the "oil" level is ok but in context the question related to transmission fluid level so did you check the transmission fluid level? If so did you use the method specified in the owner's manual? Is the fluid in your transmission ATF+4?
3. there was some thought that the torque converter was not unlocking which may be possible. Unless you have the GDE TCM tune the TC should be unlocked below about 35 mph (with the tune a bit lower) and if it's unlocked when you take your foot off the go pedal RPMs should almost immediately drop to near idle speed. If so the TC is unlocked. If there is no significant drop the TC is locked.
4. have you tried shifting into Neutral when stopping? If the problem goes away then the source is likely in the brake system. If it doesn't go away the problem is likely in the drive train.

nursecosmo · **Posted:** Tue Dec 06, 2011 11:31 am

Papaindigo: just to add a little to your #4, the brakes are not part of this problem. If the vehicle is stalling after stopped, the brake system is out of the picture. If there is a tranny fluid supply problem, the TC clutch cannot disengage, this can occur from a leaky pump, clogged tranny filter or stuck valves. I don't know which is the most likely here and there could also be other reasons but the issue is almost certainly the tranny.

shudder while stopping. Help!

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