Finally replaced the Fuel Head

Topan · **Posted:** Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:03 am

I have had air in fuel since months, after being tired of bleeding and bleeding, i ordered the 2nd generation fuel head (that comes with a filter) and installed it yesterday night.
Most of the people claim to do it in 10-20mn. Well i don't if it's because i am Swiss (we are well known for being slow... :dizzy:

) but it took me 1h 15 mn.
I also removed entirely my second filter, a Racor 300 micron, as i could not unscrew the filter itself. i will repalce the filter later and re-install it ...maybe...

Not too sure if it still usefull looking at all the threads on the subject, but here are some pics:
I followed the steps of a very good write up and started disconnecting the WIF an Fuell Heater plug:

I used the wiring set I ordered separately and connected one big and one small section wires to the plug supplied with the set. there are no instructions in the set but it is really easy. The only thing i tried to respect is to respect where was going the big section wire.(green one in my case)

Here is a view of the 2nd gen head already supplied with a filter and also with a WIF sensor:

Then i cut-off the original wires of the Fuel Heater (driver's side). The only thing i made was to keep enough lenght on both side to be able to reconnect the 1st gen if something would go wrong in the rest of the installation.

Removed the 1st gen head and wired my new Heater Plug to the wires going to the car. I did not have any good butt connectors so i used some connectors we use for home here. We call them "sugar" because of their shape, not sure how you call them. Pretty sure their are no good for long time use in rough conditions so i will replace them asap. you can see the connector at the bottom of the pic.

Installed the 2nd gen head, after having reconnectged the WIF, and reconnected all the pipes and wires:

Results: I had never replaced the filter of 2 filter (racor 300 micron) since something like 50K miles so i guess it was creating a lot of problems. Also i hope i solved the air-in-fuel issue.
So it is without saying that the drivability has improved like crazy, more and faster engine reaction, smoother ride, more stable iddle, etc...
Great job to do, really worth the $$ and the diesel smell all over the garage... :BANANA:

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:35 am

Nice write up and pictures :BANANA:

I noticed you took care to keep dirt from getting into the hose to the injector ump, very smart :JEEPIN:

Is yours a 05 or 06? The reason I'm asking is there's a problem on the 06's with the wire bundle getting chaffed as it goes behind the bracket that is shown very well in the 5th picture down :?:

On the 06's, at least the North American version with ESP traction control, the wire bundle is lower then the beveled section and gets chaffed on the square section

Topan · **Posted:** Wed Dec 21, 2011 11:04 am

thanks.
yes, really tried to keep the dirt out.
Mine is a 2005, lucky I am! (and i don't even miss the ESP... :wink:

)
I had plenty of electrical problems on my previous KJ which was a gasser, so am glad that my CRD is clean, for now... :pepper:

cheers!

crackher · **Posted:** Wed Dec 21, 2011 11:34 am

what was the part number of the replacement filter head. I have not had problems with mine but I like the idea of better drivability...I'm in N.A. so I m not sure the number would be the same

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Wed Dec 21, 2011 11:50 am

crackher wrote:

what was the part number of the replacement filter head. I have not had problems with mine but I like the idea of better drivability...I'm in N.A. so I m not sure the number would be the same

Hello and welcome to lost! The answers you seek(and many more) are located in the noob guide!

Topan · **Posted:** Wed Dec 21, 2011 12:20 pm

crackher wrote:

what was the part number of the replacement filter head. I have not had problems with mine but I like the idea of better drivability...I'm in N.A. so I m not sure the number would be the same

Hi Craker,
you will definitely find all the part number in the noobs guide, plus a thousand of other good stuff !!
Number should be the same than in Canada.
The filter head is: 68043089AA (=water/Fuell Separator) 90$ on wholesalemopar
and you need a wiring kit, because the plug of the 2nd gen fuell heater is not the same than on the 1st gen head:
Wiring kit: 68043086AB 10$ on wholesalemopar

As stated in many places, you can check if you have air in the head (no offence :ROTFL:

) by bleeding it.
There is a vid on youtube on how to do that : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qPwGcWi3gE0 (Bleeding Jeep Liberty CRD Fuel Filter Head)

Cheers!

crackher · **Posted:** Thu Dec 22, 2011 8:25 am

Yep should have checked there, I read through it for sure some good info..

Are you really noticing the increase in performance?

Topan · **Posted:** Thu Dec 22, 2011 8:46 am

totally ! it is amazing, even my wife as a passenger notices it.
The accelerations are more direct and smooth, and the most noticeable is the improvement in getting back into speed (I mean when re-accelerating out a curve for instance or gasing down to over take)

BUT again: i had 2 improvements at the same time:
1. Removed one fuel filter (racor 300) that was certainely totally dirty (not replaced in 50k miles)
2. Replaced 1st gen that has air leaks, with 2nd gen.

so maybe your improvements would be less as you will only upgrade your 1st gen.

RogerR · **Joined:** Sun Jan 19, 2014 11:03 pm **Posts:** 3

I have had several "air in Fuel" P0093 codes. Is there any way to find the exact place where the air is getting in? I replace my filters with Wix filters every 25,000 miles and the fuel hose clamps all seem very tight. I don't want to spend the time and money to replace the whole unit if it is just a matter of tightening something up or using silicone seal on a joint.
I did experience power loss on the highway the first time the code came up and the mil turned on. The power loss went away before I could find an exit and has not recurred.

2006 Liberty Sport 71,000 GRD Tune

undrgnd · **Joined:** Sat Mar 26, 2016 4:47 am **Posts:** 194

bushtit wrote:

Bump for a good cause. Great thread with step by step instructions for someone(just like me in a week or two) considering to replace the upgraded fuel filter with water separator and wiring kit.

Mate is your head leaking fuel? If not I would skip this and go straight to the in tank fuel pump kit from sasquatch. I thought the updated fuel head would fix my in air problems but it didn't. Still had to prime every other day. Wish I saved that money and did this first. Good luck.

m0sfet · **Joined:** Thu Apr 21, 2016 10:00 pm **Posts:** 45

Quick question. There are some metal clips that came with the wiring kit. Where do those go? Do they go in the new plug somehow? I was able to put the new plug together without those metal clips. Did I do something wrong?

b00tleg82 · **Joined:** Tue Mar 18, 2014 11:07 pm **Posts:** 4

m0sfet wrote:

Quick question. There are some metal clips that came with the wiring kit. Where do those go? Do they go in the new plug somehow? I was able to put the new plug together without those metal clips. Did I do something wrong?

I have the same question. Am I missing a wiring tutorial somewhere? Thanks in advance.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Jan 19, 2018 8:29 pm

No. The kit comes with 2 sets of wires when you only need one and metal wire clips to splice wires together that no one I know uses. Just disconnect the battery; match the wires as close as possible by size; back thread them thru the new plug; secure them in the new plug with the blue clamp; splice the wires however suits you (I used marine grade butt clamps with heat shrink tube); insert the new plug into the filter head; reconnect the battery. Beyond that is overthinking the install.

Finally replaced the Fuel Head

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