Different Parts?? 2.8CRD

dylan7495 · **Posted:** Mon Dec 26, 2011 4:19 pm

Hi Everybody,

After reading through Sams Noob Guide I decided to have a closer look under the hood of my 2004 2.8CRD. below is a pic of the fuel filter and what i guess is the heater. My problem is the it is completely different from the pics posted in the noob guide. I am trying to figure out how to prime this unit. If i unscrew and pull out the yellow cap at the top it seems to be a plunger of sorts but i dont know where the bleeder is. I think it is the plastic yellow screw right in front of it but i am afraid to remove it for fear of damaging something. I cant find anything in the service manual that looks like this. Why would the parts be different? what gives?

Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated.

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Mon Dec 26, 2011 6:15 pm

They used a fuel head made by Racor for the earlier CRD's (before 2005) I believe. You also may have a lift pump installed at the factory in your tank. Maybe Tony/Sir Sam can chime in as they probably know the answer.

Billwill · **Posted:** Tue Dec 27, 2011 2:22 am

WolverineFW wrote:

They used a fuel head made by Racor for the earlier CRD's (before 2005) I believe. You also may have a lift pump installed at the factory in your tank. Maybe Tony/Sir Sam can chime in as they probably know the answer.

No lift pump fitted unfortunately...we owners of the Export 2.5/2.8 CRDs were initially lead to believe that we had one.

I have a copy of the FSM for the Export diesels such as we have, they state that you have to undo the plastic capp that you mention and pump it several times to expel air into the water trap: they do not mention undo an air-bleed screw although their picture shows one on the RHS...as you face the filter from the front.

Best to ask tonycrd for advice....he is the expert on the Export CRDs

@dylan7495....If you PM me your E-mail address I can E-mail you the Diesel supplement for our vehicles....about 4.6 Mb.

dkenny · **Posted:** Tue Dec 27, 2011 9:33 am

if you want to add something to make bleeding it easier.

on the right side, looking at your pictures, the brass nut..
replace this with a valve, add some tubing, and a 'T' in the return line.
connect the tubing from the valve to the 'T' in the return line.

yes the yellow knob on top is the pump for priming the filter.
if you add the other tubing..just open the valve and pump until the air is gone.

-dkenny

tonycrd · **Posted:** Tue Dec 27, 2011 11:29 am

Hi Dylan, yes we oldies got a better fuel filter head then the 2005+ CRD's.

To bleed it you take a wrench and open the brass bolt a couple of turns. DO NOT touch the nylon 'screw' thing in front of the manual pump. If you fiddle to much with that one it will start to leak...

Seems like my 2.5CRD FSM is better :-)r

dylan7495 · **Posted:** Tue Dec 27, 2011 3:16 pm

Wow thanks for the info guys. I have another question for this thread though. I read here that if a Clunk is heard when changing from R to D it is a worn U fork on the propeller shaft. would you agree with this statement and if so is it a very difficult job to replace them at home?

The other thing i wanted to ask was this:

When i am slowing don and come to a complete stop i feel a little bump at the moment of stopping. it feel as if the TC or Tranny is disengaging. sometimes it doesn't happen when i come to a stop very very slowly but the i feel it as soon as i take my foot of the brake and the vehicle starts to roll. it is not a shudder at all just a simple bump. it feels the same as when you are driving and the gears change. is this normal?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Dec 27, 2011 3:25 pm

On your stopping issue you might look at viewtopic.php?f=5&t=63890 and the solution at the end for what it's worth.

Clunk - I have no clue how hard they are to change but might be "U" joints or might be the slip joint. Not exactly on point but take a look at viewtopic.php?f=5&t=64134&p=708008&hilit=joint+slip#p708008

Billwill · **Posted:** Wed Dec 28, 2011 7:44 am

tonycrd wrote:

Hi Dylan, yes we oldies got a better fuel filter head then the 2005+ CRD's.

To bleed it you take a wrench and open the brass bolt a couple of turns. DO NOT touch the nylon 'screw' thing in front of the manual pump. If you fiddle to much with that one it will start to leak...

Seems like my 2.5CRD FSM is better :-)r

I am sure my 2.5CRD FSM is the same as yours Tony.....seeing as I got the link to it from you some time ago :lol:

I have the same picture as you but next to the picture, in the description of how to bleed the system, there is no mention of loosening the brass nut slightly

tonycrd · **Posted:** Wed Dec 28, 2011 11:57 am

Correct, it doesn't. But Chrysler and diesel....

You can just pump, but it takes forever. I find it's faster and saver to open the bleeder. (I use the Racor R25S filter which is almost twice as long as the OEM one.)

dylan7495 · **Posted:** Thu Dec 29, 2011 4:59 am

Correct it doesn't so i did not open the bleeder to pump it. I think what it does is push it through to the water separator in some way. what i did find was after pumping it about 20 or so times the plunger got real stiff and started pushing Diesel past its seal.

Different Parts?? 2.8CRD

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