Really nice post valkraider , we should make this a sticky.

One question is stilled unresolved though: How do I make sure to get good Diesel? Do I have to go into the gas station and ask them what kind of cetane rating their Diesel has? I highly doubt it that they ever heard of that word before.

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2005 CRD Sport
Mods: Glasspack, OME HD Struts & Springs, 2" Daystar lift,
255/70/16 General Grabber AT2's on MOAB's
ORM&EHM with great success!
TJM T17 Bumper, 50W KC HID's

And why is every diesel pump always a filthy mess!

When we fill up the pump handle is all oily, and the hoses are dripping noticably and puddles on the ground. So basically I get oil on my shoes and hands then I get back into the jeep and the oil gets on the floor matts and smells for days

I have no idea. Most people that work at the stations don't even know the difference between standard and premium gasoline, let alone what constitutes good diesel or bad diesel.

I tried calling a distributor, and they just said "All our diesel is good". Yeah, that was a help...



You could move to Oregon or New Jersey.

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http://www.pdxbiodiesel.org

How many miles are on your CRD?

What was the temp outside roughly during your trip? oh and what speed were you averaging?[/quote]

6000 miles.

55*F

About 50/50 65 to 75 mph.

I run 50 Cetane B10 fuel.

One large adult male (me), small female (wife) and our 1 year old grandson.

Only mod is Flowmaster 40 muffler.

Tires are nitrogen filled to 40 PSI.[/quote]
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What's the advantage of nitrogen filled tires? Where does one find a nitrogen pump? Are these stock tires?

This one is debated a lot all over the web. I make no claims to know for sure. Some people claim it is bull pucky. Others claim it works wonders. So take all of this with a grain of salt.

Using Nitrogen is supposed to increase your tire life and fuel economy.

Basically Nitrogen is dry. The moisture that is held in regular air causes tire pressure to change with temperature, and supposedly since Nitrogen does not hold moisture, it will stay at a more constant pressure over temperature ranges.

Nitrogen is also supposed to leak less than regular air as the molecules are bigger than Oxygen. But this could be harder to show - as oxygen only makes up around 20% of regular air, so 100% Nitrogen would theoretically be a small improvement.

The reduced moisture is supposed to help keep rims from corroding, and extend tire life as well.

Additionally, supposedly Nitrogen helps dissipate heat better, keeping your tires cooler.

All of these things are debatable. Some people feel that you can accomplish the same simply by getting a compressed air dryer and making sure that the air in your tires has no (or almost no) moisture in it.

Again, none of this is guaranteed - just what I have read around...

It definately doesn't hurt - but at around $10 to fill up all your tires, the beneft might be minimal.

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http://www.pdxbiodiesel.org

There are quite a few advantages.

1. tires run cooler.
2. cooler running tires means better wear.
3. less likely to have blowout from over heated tires
4. better wear saves you money.
5. Nitrogen is a larger molocule and doesn't leach through the rubber as fast as air.
6. no water and other contaminates inside the tires to cause corrosion of wheels or deteration of rubber.
7. one odd thing two friends stated was the Jeep rode smoother on the road at 44 PSI (what I had put in to start with and that way lower to what I figured would be best overall) then it did at 36 PSI I had been running before having change over done. The cost was $3.50 a tire and includes lifetime refills as needed. Hey if it means I can quit checking the air pressure once a week and adding air once or twice a month then I'm all for it and it to me would be worth the money.

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91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine

Wow this thread really got jacked, so what the heck I will add my two cents.

1. Nitrogen Molecules are SMALLER than Oxygen. However that is not the only thing that dictates leak rate especially through the rubber in the tire not just around the bead.

2. Most Nitrogen is dry, not all, Most processes for separating Nitrogen from air dries it naturally, however if the tanks are not vacuum purged before they are filled they will have water vapor in them.

3. The biggest advantage of Nitrogen comes if it is dry, for the reasons already stated AND the biggest problem with most aluminum wheels today is oxidation at the bead, this generally comes from the outside but can come from the inside as well, the aluminum oxidizes and the bead starts to leak. Also the Water leaches some of the additives in the tire compound out that keep it soft, But the sun does more damage than the water.

4. The old rule of thumb was that Cetane = BTU's. That was true when the refineries used higher and lower molecular weight material to adjust Cetane Rating. However Cetane rating is a measurement of ignitability. And with the new additives it is very easy to raise Cetane rating without raising BTU's. BTU's = Mileage and performance. So this only makes the mileage issue more difficult, In MN they do not put the cetane rating on the pumps, they do put things like #2, Premium, Winter Blend, etc. We also have Arctic Diesel from Flint Hills refinery, it has a cetane rating of 50, pretty good for a winter blend. They adjust the Cetane rating with additives, I get the same mileage with this as I do with a 50/50 blend, Why because the additives do not raise the BTU's.

5. That being said, I have a friend that runs straight #2 in the winter with an anti gen additive and he gets great mileage, why because he is starting with a high BTU fuel and adding anti gel, not cetane booster.

6. I find this interesting, I drive on county roads to work 60 mph, for 80% of the miles that I drive, however my average MPH is only 38. I get 20 MPG in the CRD. I think that this is OK since the last 2 trucks that I owned driving on the same roads got 14 and 17 MPG.

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Gasoline is for washing parts - Alcohol is for drinking - Nitromethane is for racing - Diesel is for hauling.

2005 CRD Limited 4x4 - Deep Beryl Green - Selec-Trac
Trac-Lok - Skid Plates - BFG Radial Long Trail TA's- Rotella T 5W40 Synthetic.

2007 GC CRD Limited. Silver.

Just another way for a fool and his money to part company. May I suggest that you try the "secret" magnetic fuel boosters which will get you 200 miles per gallon instead. I'm sure its a better deal

1. Last time I look years ago while in college nitrogen was a larger molecule, used a lot of it over the years in optic's in the USN.

2. True

3. Sounds reasonable to me.

4. Nitrogen has been used for years in race cars. When I first heard of it being used (early '80's) was when couple of neighbors mentioned they used it in their race cars (one a NASCAR driver later on) other guy never made the big time, he just always had bad luck. He was a far better driver, but like they say, "luck is always better then skill."

I'm giving it a try with an open mind and will see what happens. I have noticed that my tires are noticable cooler when I bring the Magnum in from the highway. That is important to me as I often travel in triple digets on some of the nice back roads around the area. If that is all it really does then to me it's easy worth the money.

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91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine

Nitrogen is larger.... Moving from left to right on the Periodic Table (on the same row), the actual size (width) of the atoms decrease while the atomic mass increases. This is because of an increased attraction between the Electrons and Protrons.

- Jay

I thought my liberty's poop smelled like roses till my wife took a 400 mile round trip and said her legs hurt, the 4 other passengers also complained about discomfort. I guess I just over look the bad stuff on long trips.

If I was to inflate the tires with somtimng other than breathing air, I would argon. simply because I have a huge tank of it. and it's a very noble gas. I will ajust them up to 44 PSI this weekend and see how that does, good tip!

Jay, you are absolutley correct, except that I was taught that nitrogen and oxygen do not follow this rule. I am not knowledgeable enough in chemistry to even begin to understand why nor explain it. So lets not debate this, sorry I started it.

Folks I am not against Nitrogen in tires, However I am saying that the benefit is from it being dry. That being said, one thing that I forgot to mention is that if you do this it is important to let all of the air out of the tires and break the bead, then turn on the nitrogen and let it blow into the tire and out between the bead and the rim to push as much of the air and water vapor out before you set the bead this will give you the largest benefit.

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Gasoline is for washing parts - Alcohol is for drinking - Nitromethane is for racing - Diesel is for hauling.

2005 CRD Limited 4x4 - Deep Beryl Green - Selec-Trac
Trac-Lok - Skid Plates - BFG Radial Long Trail TA's- Rotella T 5W40 Synthetic.

2007 GC CRD Limited. Silver.

I use mine to commute to and from work, 22 miles each way, and when at work I get paid mileage to drive mine whenever I have to do construction inspection or run meetings for engineering design, contracting, legal, whatever. This results in about 10 day trips per month all over the state of Indiana and I can tell you this is the perfect day tripper vehicle! Southern Indiana is as hilly as Pennsylvania - no problem with the CRD, Northern Indiana is as flat as a pancake - no problem with the CRD. Just a GREAT vehicle for commuting and working.

For long trips, we take an '04 Toyota Sienna mini-van for the extra cargo, kid, dog space it allows, but I'm actually more comfortable in the Jeep. I'm averaging 20-22mpg overall since new. Best ever was just over 24mpg.

One more thing... Consider your thread officially un-hijacked.

How it is done is tire is beaded with regular compressed air, then the air is let out through valve stem, then nitrogen is put in at a low PSI and then released through valve stem, then the tire is refilled with nitrogen to desired pressure. Really quite simple.

This will probably become pretty common place as more and more tire stores start offering the service. There are about 6 in the area now offering the service, with a tire store here in town offering the service in a couple of months.

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91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine

Hmm. I've never had this problem in California and we're not a full-service state like Oregon or NJ. Perhaps it's because we have tighter evironmental rules here?

When my in-laws were driving the CRD out from Oklahoma last Fall they commented on how nasty many of the pumps were. Guess I'm going to have to remember to take a pair of rubber gloves with me when I go out of state.

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Chris
Current:
2007 Steel Blue Metallic Grand Cherokee CRD Limited
GDE Eco Tune and DPF delete
CB Engineering DPF delete pipe
EHM

Past (sold to Mountainman):
2005 Patriot Blue Liberty CRD Limited

It would be interesting to try and get apples-apples comparisons w/ Nitrogen vs air w/ regards to heat buildup.

the only reason I use Nitrogen in my race bike is that it offers much better consitency from one weekend to the next. If the tire is filled with pure Nitrogen, changes in temperature, pressure, and humidity will have a more linear effect on tire behavior which makes it easier for me to adjust suspension settings and such to deal with the other variables. Any time you're trying to get improved results at something the more variables you can eliminate the better.

I don't know about any other benefits pure Nitrogen would give you. Nitrogen is already 80% of regular air so I can't see how it would make the tire "ride" any better. I could buy the corrosion argument as you don't have water in your tire sealed up against your rims.

-<shrug>- As with many things we do - if it makes you feel better then do it. You're certainly not going to hurt anything.

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Chris
Current:
2007 Steel Blue Metallic Grand Cherokee CRD Limited
GDE Eco Tune and DPF delete
CB Engineering DPF delete pipe
EHM

Past (sold to Mountainman):
2005 Patriot Blue Liberty CRD Limited

The local reg's for fuel spill's and clean up and even who uses the station pumps ahead of you has an effect on the cleaness of the stations pumps. This is oil we are talking about here and it does not evaporate like gasoline does.

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91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine

i know you guys realize that a deisel doesnt start getting optimun fuel mileage till you get around 10 k on it, i got a 06 limited with 7100 on it and was averaging 23.4 mixed driving and got 29.3 the other day on a day trip(full tank), any one tried a fuel chip, i got a predator that has really bumped my fuel mileage up almost 3 mpg on local driving. down side is the low idle shutter has also increased . has any one figured that out yet. i have ready some horro storries from some crd owners