Codes P0504, P0234 and P2299

hgrimberg · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2011 11:03 pm **Posts:** 363

Hi All, I bought my KJ CRD just 3 weeks ago and in the first few days after buying it, a yellow light (check engine, #7) in the dash showed up. I filled up the tank and then it went away. A week later, the light was back. Now it comes and goes.
I scanned it and 3 error codes came up: P0504, P0234 and P2299.
P0234 seems to be related to the turbo system which was replaced by the PO. Maybe they didnt tell the ECU the problem was fixed?
The other 2 codes seem to be related to the brakes and accelerator pedals...
Ideas on how to fix all this? Are these serious issues that it's better stop driving the car and fix them immediatly?

BTW, I checked the history of my KJ on the Jeep website and this is what came up:

VIN Number:
1J4GL4855 5W694731 Vehicle Description:
JEEP LIBERTY SPORT 4X4 SPORT UTILITY 4-DR Model Year:
2005

Recall and Customer Satisfaction Notification Information:
Click on description to view document
Description Type Issue Date Status
TORQUE CONVERTER AND REPROGRAM PCM/TCM
CUSTOMER SATISFACTION
12/01/2006
INCOMPLETE
LOWER BALL JOINTS
SAFETY
09/06/2006
INCOMPLETE

The codes are:
P0504 Brake switch – A/B correlation Wiring, mechanical fault
P0234 Engine boost condition – limit exceeded Hose connection(s), wiring, TC wastergate regulating valve, TC wastegate
P2299 Brake switch - Accelerator pedal position

Thank you.

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Fri Jan 13, 2012 2:27 am

First thought - pay attention... are you riding the brakes with your left foot while pressing on the accelerator with the right? It can cause some strange behavior (and codes) if you do.

Second thought - there are two switches, one on the brake pedal and another in the engine compartment associated with the master cylinder (detects pressure in the system). The code is supposed to say "one says you're pressing the pedal but the other doesn't agree), or "there's pressure but you're not pressing the pedal".

Last thought - there's a TSB associated with that logic: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f28/boug ... a-1116657/

Who knows.. ? If you're handy with a DVM you can diagnose the switches, or given the code, if that TSB isn't yet performed the dealer may be obliged to take care of it for you with a flash.

As for the overpressure - perhaps when they replaced the turbo they didn't quite get the linkage aligned correctly? Sounds like it's telling you there are pressure spikes and the ECM suspects the wastegate isn't moving freely. I don't know if there are other possibilities... you might give that part of the turbo a visual inspection. There are vacuum components on the fender to the left of the turbo - peek at them too.

Mark

hgrimberg · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2011 11:03 pm **Posts:** 363

msilbernagel wrote:

First thought - pay attention... are you riding the brakes with your left foot while pressing on the accelerator with the right? It can cause some strange behavior (and codes) if you do.

Second thought - there are two switches, one on the brake pedal and another in the engine compartment associated with the master cylinder (detects pressure in the system). The code is supposed to say "one says you're pressing the pedal but the other doesn't agree), or "there's pressure but you're not pressing the pedal".

Last thought - there's a TSB associated with that logic: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f28/boug ... a-1116657/

Who knows.. ? If you're handy with a DVM you can diagnose the switches, or given the code, if that TSB isn't yet performed the dealer may be obliged to take care of it for you with a flash.

As for the overpressure - perhaps when they replaced the turbo they didn't quite get the linkage aligned correctly? Sounds like it's telling you there are pressure spikes and the ECM suspects the wastegate isn't moving freely. I don't know if there are other possibilities... you might give that part of the turbo a visual inspection. There are vacuum components on the fender to the left of the turbo - peek at them too.

Mark

Thank you Mark. I am not so familiar with your acronyms, but for what I understand you are telling me that I should flash my ECU and get a new operating system on it, or ROM (as one can say in cell phones). Maybe that will clean up this mess with conflicting signals. Or perhaps, unplugging the battery will reset the ECU and the error codes will go away?
The turbo issue can be a delicate one and I dont know if it is convenient to just leave it this way or do something about it ASAP. For what you suggest, it was probably didn't fix the right way, and they left some loose ends there. I'll make the mechanic check that.

Edit: I come from a manual car, so maybe I am using my two feet to push the pedals. Actually, the other day when the yellow light was off, I tried to teach somebody else to drive my CRD and she pushed the brakes and the accelerator at the same time making the red with a lighting bolt light show up as well as making the yellow light come back. The red light was gone after turning off the car and on again but the yellow one remained. Now I just tried to put in contact the car without cranking it 4 times and then I started the engine and the yellow light is now off... I'll try to tie my left leg to the door and see if the yellow light comes back

tregrrr · **Joined:** Mon Oct 10, 2011 2:37 pm **Posts:** 59

From the recall listing.... is says the torque converter recall is not done.

This is a good thing!!! That is "F37"
This description they put on that report is just jeep dealer for saying that your jeep has not been neutered!!

DONT LET THEM DO IT!!!!!
not having F37 done is considered by many to be enviable
it will irrevocably alter the jeep

What they do is reprogram the computers to change what RPM the tranny shifts and the torque converter (automatic tranny "clutch" and then some) locks up. It also CUTS engine power so that the motor doesn't over-power the under-strength toque converter.

The shudder will happen going up a fairly steep incline at around 60MPH on cruise control. If (when)it shudders (violent throbbing; very loud and resonating that you will know when you hear it, but wonder if you have heard it untill the day you do)... JUST KICK OFF THE cruise control or hit the over drive lock-out on the side of the shifter as quick as you can. This will make the "something major is broke" sound go away instantly.

The shudder is caused by the torque our motors make overwhelming springs in the transmission designed to soften the impulse of force from each cylinder firing. When the tranny is all locked up (no slippage) in either 4th or 5th, and the springs bottom out it shudders. So if you can make it not shudder by being forewarned, smile, because you get a better jeep than most of us.

Once they do F37 a jeep, you then have to speed up to 63MPH in order to get it into 5th, then drop back to 55-60 mph, and once you get a real torque converter, you then wont be able to pull a house up the mountain without it dropping to a lower gear :JEEPIN:

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Fri Jan 13, 2012 7:41 pm

Sorry, the TSB is 'Technical Service Bulletin'. It's a document issued by the manufacturer to the dealers indicating that a problem exists and providing instructions on how and when to service the problem.

In this case, the TSB specifically includes your code (P0504?) and the switches - so it's possibly connected. A reflash occurs when the Dodge dealer downloads a new program with the changes specified in the TSB.. into your ECM. So, like bug fixes from microsoft... ; ' )

As the above poster mentions - watch out for F37. If you get any reflash for one TSB, they'll likely throw in the other so talk to them about it and indicate your preference for no F37.

It could be one of the switches, or your foot habits, or the programming. Hopefully, time and a little attention will help you sort it out.

A DVM (digital volt meter) is a handy tool you can use to test switches (ohms) and voltages - so if you're familiar you can diagnose the switches yourself.

Mark

hgrimberg · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2011 11:03 pm **Posts:** 363

Ok, so it seems that the solution will be to replace some of these faulty switches. I won't get a special ordered TSB from the manufacturer in this remote town in Southamerica where I am at this moment. I am lucky I found a mechanic shop where they had a scanner and were able to read my codes.
The first thing I ll do if I can find a wrench is to totally unplug the battery and see if by resetting the ECU the codes go away.
BTW, F37 diminishes the fuel consumption?

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hgrimberg · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2011 11:03 pm **Posts:** 363

Is it true that to read error codes you can just hit the odometer button and at the same time switch the key without starting the engine, and voila, the codes show up in the odometer?

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papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Jan 21, 2012 2:04 pm

I think that trick may work on 2005s and early 2006s but if it does FYI the last 2 digits of the code produced are reported to often be reversed.

hgrimberg · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2011 11:03 pm **Posts:** 363

papaindigo wrote:

I think that trick may work on 2005s and early 2006s but if it does FYI the last 2 digits of the code produced are reported to often be reversed.

Weird to have them reversed. All I saw trying this trick was just numbers repeated like 1111111, 2222222, 3333333. Maybe because there are no errors on my engine.

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dieselgirl · **Joined:** Tue Jun 12, 2012 11:19 am **Posts:** 1

Hi all,
This is my first post and I am desperate for some help/advice
I have an 05 Jeep Liberty CRD 2.8L diesel. A few weeks ago it started spitting out black and grey smoke incredibly heavy and running through oil (like 4 quarts in 5 miles) I thought this may have had something to do with an oil change place putting in the wrong oil but when I took it back it had run out of oil and they filled it up with the correct oil. I drove it 5 miles after the new oil was in and it stalled out in the middle of the road and died. After waiting for a few minutes it cranked again and got another few yards before dying again. I had it towed back to my place to have a friend who rebuilds cars take a look at it and for a while it wouldn't crank at all. He looked at it and changed the oil again as well as the coolant and he also changed the pressure control valve that connects to the turbo because it had broken and a spring was missing. Now the Jeep will turn over IF it has been sitting a while (it wont crank twice in a row) it may even run for a second or two but then it chokes out and dies. I am desperate because the local dealership knew nothing about diesels and even the couple local diesel mechanics said they don't know much about Liberty diesels. My mechanic friend thinks the turbo is what is causing this but the diesel mechanics both said that was unlikely. I had a friend with an over the counter scanner take a reading and I got several error codes:
P1263 Glow plug 2 control circuit low
P1265 Glow plug 3 control circuit low
P0299 Turbo/super charger under boost
P0102 Mass or Volume Air flow circuit low input

Now after reading the forums I've seen some of these error numbers with different descriptions listed so I am even m,ore confused. It seems like a lot of people have had the issue with black smoke and the engine not starting/choking out but I cant figure out what they did or what to tell my friend to look at. Can anyone help?
Please

Billwill · **Posted:** Tue Jun 12, 2012 2:21 pm

hgrimberg wrote:

Is it true that to read error codes you can just hit the odometer button and at the same time switch the key without starting the engine, and voila, the codes show up in the odometer?

Sent from my DROID2 GLOBAL using Tapatalk

You are getting two seperate operations mixed up here.
On older KJs...up to 2004 I think..... you could extract code by turning the ignition key ON/OFF four times rapidly and the codes will display...this will not work on your KJ. Also as stated...sometimes the last two digits are transposed.

Then there is a procedure on all the KJs to test the console. This involves holding in the reset button for the Odometer while turning on the ignition. This turns on all of the lights on the console and moves the dial gauges back and forth a few times. This shows if all your lamps are working and if the gauges basically work.

Billwill · **Posted:** Tue Jun 12, 2012 2:25 pm

dieselgirl wrote:

Hi all,
This is my first post and I am desperate for some help/advice
I have an 05 Jeep Liberty CRD 2.8L diesel. A few weeks ago it started spitting out black and grey smoke incredibly heavy and running through oil (like 4 quarts in 5 miles) I thought this may have had something to do with an oil change place putting in the wrong oil but when I took it back it had run out of oil and they filled it up with the correct oil. I drove it 5 miles after the new oil was in and it stalled out in the middle of the road and died. After waiting for a few minutes it cranked again and got another few yards before dying again. I had it towed back to my place to have a friend who rebuilds cars take a look at it and for a while it wouldn't crank at all. He looked at it and changed the oil again as well as the coolant and he also changed the pressure control valve that connects to the turbo because it had broken and a spring was missing. Now the Jeep will turn over IF it has been sitting a while (it wont crank twice in a row) it may even run for a second or two but then it chokes out and dies. I am desperate because the local dealership knew nothing about diesels and even the couple local diesel mechanics said they don't know much about Liberty diesels. My mechanic friend thinks the turbo is what is causing this but the diesel mechanics both said that was unlikely. I had a friend with an over the counter scanner take a reading and I got several error codes:
P1263 Glow plug 2 control circuit low
P1265 Glow plug 3 control circuit low
P0299 Turbo/super charger under boost
P0102 Mass or Volume Air flow circuit low input

Now after reading the forums I've seen some of these error numbers with different descriptions listed so I am even m,ore confused. It seems like a lot of people have had the issue with black smoke and the engine not starting/choking out but I cant figure out what they did or what to tell my friend to look at. Can anyone help?
Please

Hi dieselgirl, welcome to Lost...I saw this post of yours on the other site and replied to it there.

However you have now come to the best CRD site namely Lost and I am sure you will get some good advice here!

You should actually start a new thread in this forum so as not to hijack the original posting and any new visitor really needs to read "SAMS CRD Noob Guide" at the top of this CRD forum....tells you everything you need to know about the CRD.

ChooChooman74 · **Posted:** Tue Jun 12, 2012 3:52 pm

Billwill wrote:

hgrimberg wrote:

Is it true that to read error codes you can just hit the odometer button and at the same time switch the key without starting the engine, and voila, the codes show up in the odometer?

Sent from my DROID2 GLOBAL using Tapatalk

You are getting two seperate operations mixed up here.
On older KJs...up to 2004 I think..... you could extract code by turning the ignition key ON/OFF four times rapidly and the codes will display...this will not work on your KJ. Also as stated...sometimes the last two digits are transposed.

Then there is a procedure on all the KJs to test the console. This involves holding in the reset button for the Odometer while turning on the ignition. This turns on all of the lights on the console and moves the dial gauges back and forth a few times. This shows if all your lamps are working and if the gauges basically work.

Thanks for the tip!

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Tue Jun 12, 2012 9:28 pm

Billwill wrote:

dieselgirl wrote:

Hi all,
This is my first post and I am desperate for some help/advice
I have an 05 Jeep Liberty CRD 2.8L diesel. A few weeks ago it started spitting out black and grey smoke incredibly heavy and running through oil (like 4 quarts in 5 miles) I thought this may have had something to do with an oil change place putting in the wrong oil but when I took it back it had run out of oil and they filled it up with the correct oil. I drove it 5 miles after the new oil was in and it stalled out in the middle of the road and died. After waiting for a few minutes it cranked again and got another few yards before dying again. I had it towed back to my place to have a friend who rebuilds cars take a look at it and for a while it wouldn't crank at all. He looked at it and changed the oil again as well as the coolant and he also changed the pressure control valve that connects to the turbo because it had broken and a spring was missing. Now the Jeep will turn over IF it has been sitting a while (it wont crank twice in a row) it may even run for a second or two but then it chokes out and dies. I am desperate because the local dealership knew nothing about diesels and even the couple local diesel mechanics said they don't know much about Liberty diesels. My mechanic friend thinks the turbo is what is causing this but the diesel mechanics both said that was unlikely. I had a friend with an over the counter scanner take a reading and I got several error codes:
P1263 Glow plug 2 control circuit low
P1265 Glow plug 3 control circuit low
P0299 Turbo/super charger under boost
P0102 Mass or Volume Air flow circuit low input

Now after reading the forums I've seen some of these error numbers with different descriptions listed so I am even m,ore confused. It seems like a lot of people have had the issue with black smoke and the engine not starting/choking out but I cant figure out what they did or what to tell my friend to look at. Can anyone help?
Please

Hi dieselgirl, welcome to Lost...I saw this post of yours on the other site and replied to it there.

However you have now come to the best CRD site namely Lost and I am sure you will get some good advice here!

You should actually start a new thread in this forum so as not to hijack the original posting and any new visitor really needs to read "SAMS CRD Noob Guide" at the top of this CRD forum....tells you everything you need to know about the CRD.

Howdy dieselgirl - Welcome to LOST, x2 on the new thread - gets more focus
I suspect your original problem was only a turbo return oil line - but running without oil is pretty unforgiving on these......

Codes P0504, P0234 and P2299

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