I have been a lurker for over a year. I bought my 06 CRD a year ago and love it. For some reason the dipstick for the transmission keeps coming out and trips the check engine light. What is making the dipstick come out? Also, is there any other option for the drain plug for the oilpan? The plug that is currently on it is stripped out.

Tranny dip stick popping up is not at all unusual but it should not trip a check engine light, mine certainly never does. I suspect dipstick is a bit too long and exerts upward pressure but even if not there is not enough friction between the tube and the dipstick cap to hold it in place. Take a close look at the 2n picture in the 4th post at viewtopic.php?f=5&t=64217&p=712577#p712577 for a nice solution with a worm clamp and a bit of velcro.

Oil drain plug fix is a Fumoto valve (viewtopic.php?f=5&t=64217&p=712577#p712577) but if the OEM threads are gone you need to look at geordi's post at viewtopic.php?f=5&t=63191&p=698855&hilit=fumoto#p698855 to deal with rethreading for an oversize fumoto.

If you have not already done so real Sir Sam's NOOB guide, download copies of both 05 and 06 factory service manuals (05 has illustration keys/06 does not - 06 has diesel cooling section and diagnostics/05 does not) and if you are near or above 100k miles the timing belt replacement needs to be done.

_________________
Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

I appreciate the info. It appears as thought the timing belt is coming up in 10k miles!!

Chrysler offers a hex drain plug to replace the inadequate allen key version. I prefer it because the Fumoto is a bit vulnerable in some of the installations I have seen. It is easy to drain the oil without removing any of the skid plates.

DOC

_________________
2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

I have a hex on mine. It came that way when we bought it in August from the Jeep dealer. I cannot say if it is a factory fix or not, or if the threads have been oversized. I do need to find a copper crush washer to fit it. I have been flipping it over and re-using it at every oil change, haha. As for the tranny dipstick, I got tired of mine popping out, so I crimped the tube at the top, and it has not come out since. Problem solved.

_________________
Mike Rausch
Bear, Delaware
2006 Liberty Sport CRD 253K

Dealer has copper drain plug gaskets that are just right.

DOC

_________________
2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

Happen to have a pn? Our local dealer is useless as I am in a tiny rural PA town... the dealer we bought it from is a 80 mile drive. I was just going to take it to NAPA or Advance and see if I could match it otherwise.

_________________
Mike Rausch
Bear, Delaware
2006 Liberty Sport CRD 253K

You don't need copper, the drain plug doesn't take that much heat and no pressure - A silicone o-ring or soft washer is fine, especially since the drain plug threads aren't the strongest. You can tell if the drain plug is an "oversized" already when you remove it. If the tip of the threads has a notch cut into it, its an oversize.

Another option if your threads already are oversized, is a spark plug thread repair kit. M14x1.25 (IIRC) is the size. The tap that the kit comes with is *just about* the same as the double-oversize drain plugs, but the real advantage is the collar that you screw into the newly-cut hole. Use the mid-depth one, and screw it into the hole, where it will create deeper fresh threads that you can properly lock a replacement drain plug into. Then use an o-ring to seal it.

I've been using the o-ring for months, with not a drop leaked. With the copper washer (and ripped threads) it would always have a drip hanging there, losing a bit over the course of an oil change cycle.

For me, no leakage is acceptable if it can be prevented.

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.