Lift Pump for my 05 Liberty CRD???

MIdzzl · **Posted:** Sun Jan 29, 2012 2:45 am

I have been having a lot of problems with losing prime in my 05 Liberty CRD. 119000 miles. No codes, sometimes I lose engine power until I pump the fuel filter, other times, the engine shakes and shutters like it is running out of fuel. I change my fuel filter regularly, have replaced the filter housing with the updated part (heard that the heater plug could cause an air leak), changed the regulator, still having intermittent problems. I drive 150+ miles a day for work, and don't want to be pulling over on the side of I75 to prime it -- lots of idiot drivers out there who will probably run me over.

Reading posts here, it sounds like a lift pump may solve my problems. Does anyone have any suggestions for a lift pump brand/model? Is an under the hood or near tank option better? Any install tips/directions would be good too.

Thanks in advance for your help.

DieselJeepLuvr · **Posted:** Sun Jan 29, 2012 3:29 am

Carter P4600 HP is probably the best for the price. Very reliable and will work with gas/diesel/biodiesel. Rotary vane design is bulletproof. I'd mount it underneath. Tap into the fuel line.

Your issue may be a partially clogged pickup screen in the tank though if its clogged the IP will produce enough vacuum to suck air through weak spots in your fuel line system that were not intended for high vacuum.

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Sun Jan 29, 2012 4:01 am

You'll probably get two or three good options (at least) from this crowd. I think the in-tank solution is ideal.

It seems that one major source of air is at the fittings where they snap to the outlet of the tank (the pump assy, actually). The CP3 on the engine draws fuel through the filter/head and pulls a vacuum all the way to the tank.

Instead, with an in tank pump pushing all the way, it puts pressure on those fittings as the original gasser (patooie!) pump did and solves the air intake problem.

Since the in-tank unit is from the Dodge/Cummins 5.9L diesel, which also uses a Bosch CP3 fuel pump at the engine, they're quite compatible pressure and volume wise.

Others have used an inline unit that has an internal bypass valve (in case the pump fails, or fuse blows) and seem to have good luck as well. I'd be concerned with their ability to match the CP3's volume, but most that go that way seem quite happy with the results.

I put the in-tank unit in ours at 30k miles and it's run happily and well all the way past 165k miles.

Wiring wise I used the harness from a gas version that goes from under the rear seat behind the driver to the tank; it has the additional power and ground wires for the pump. Had to make some length adjustments, so it helps to be handy with a soldering iron, shrink wrap, and electrical tape (do a good job!) - perhaps some of that corrugated tubing that you can pick up at the auto stores to protect wiring. You ground it right there under the rear seat near the connectors.

Made it a Saturday project. Makes a night and day driveability difference - wouldn't want the little tractor without it!

Mark

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Jan 29, 2012 7:48 am

I would install it in the engine bay and call it a day.

Find a quality inline flow thru lift pump of your choice and install it near the battery. It takes 20 minutes.

It's small, quiet, affordable, unnoticeable and out the way.

Mine has been performing flawlessly for over three years now and those that have followed suit are reporting the same results.

Why make things complicated and expensive when a simple solution works.

2mopar_diesels · **Posted:** Sun Jan 29, 2012 2:03 pm

racertracer wrote:

I would install it in the engine bay and call it a day.

Find a quality inline flow thru lift pump of your choice and install it near the battery. It takes 20 minutes.

It's small, quiet, affordable, unnoticeable and out the way.

Mine has been performing flawlessly for over three years now and those that have followed suit are reporting the same results.

Why make things complicated and expensive when a simple solution works.

I 2nd this!!! I simply zip-tied mine under the battery tray, and I also installed a pressure gauge inline. I used a fuel pump from a '93-2000 Chevy K2500 p/u with 6.5 Turbo diesel. It's a little solenoid/piston pump that's known to last 100K mi. or more. They come as a universal style or with factory connections (for just a few bucks more), made in the USA, and available in-stock at any parts store in the country!!!!! I know, I called every store here where I live and they all had at least one in stock. Got mine (universal kit) from NAPA for about $50.

NotPicky · **Posted:** Sun Jan 29, 2012 3:08 pm

msilbernagel wrote:

It seems that one major source of air is at the fittings where they snap to the outlet of the tank (the pump assy, actually). The CP3 on the engine draws fuel through the filter/head and pulls a vacuum all the way to the tank.

Instead, with an in tank pump pushing all the way, it puts pressure on those fittings as the original gasser (patooie!) pump did and solves the air intake problem.
Mark

I agree. If you don't want to go with a in tank pump, I would still mount a pump as close to the tank as possible. The main idea of a pressurized system is to get rid of air in the fuel. Air bubbles are hard on injection pumps and injectors.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Jan 29, 2012 4:36 pm

The pump pushes fuel to the fuel head and once air is purged out from the head it remains air free.

You could install the pump inches away from the fuel/water separator filter and as long as it keeps the plunger on the fuel head taught it is doing its job, it doesn't matter where inline you install the flow thru lift pump.

It is supposed to keep the fuel filter full to the brim with fuel so that the cp3 never starves for fuel during peak demand and if you search the forum you will see that 3 - 4.5 lbs of pressure is all that is required from the lift pump to accomplish this.

CATCRD · **Posted:** Sun Jan 29, 2012 5:02 pm

I'm also not a huge fan of the in-tank pump. I like that it's a really clean OEM type install, but it's a bear to install, and if it fails you wonder if the jeep will even run. Then you are left with the task of dropping the tank again. If my underhood lift pump fails I can bypass it with a screwdriver in 5 minutes.

It's not really important that the pump is at the lowest point in the fuel system, just that it's pushing the fuel through the filter instead of pulling, like in the stock system.

royaldragon · **Joined:** Wed May 07, 2014 10:07 am **Posts:** 3

I'm thinking about installing a lift pump as my system is taking in air. This thread seems to point out that it is not necessary to have it installed closer to the tank. If air is entering near the tank at the quick connectors as I read in another thread than the lift pump placed under the hood would still suck and push air into the filter head... right?
So is installing a lift pump under the hood a solid fix to the air in the fuel head problem?
I just don't want to do one install and find out it doesn't fix my problem. I live in Mexico and can't waist time fixing things the wrong way: there's a lack of good mechanics here to help me if I mess up.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Feb 09, 2015 9:09 pm

AS others on here have stated before.
The slip on "O" ring fuel fittings are designed for pressure, not vacuum!!! (CP3 is having to suck fuel all the way from inside the fuel tank)
Want a permanent fix for any air inleakage in your fuel system?
An in-tank lift pump puts the entire fuel system up to the CP3 pump under a positive pressure at all times and makes bleeding air out of new filters a snap!

NO more air in fuel problems or worries EVER!!!! Any leaks anywhere are very self evident!
Adding the additional wiring from under the rear seat to the top of the tank takes more time than changing out the in tank assembly...
Adding a lift pump anywhere other than in the tank can allow air to be sucked into the fuel system on the suction side of a pump if a leak develops anywhere between the pump and the tank, it's that simple! :cry:

Intank assembly Part No.s:
Airtex E7181M In-tank Lift Pump 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD
Mopar: 5143160AA
CARTER P76148M

Its all about choices, make the best ones.... :wink:

Bushman5 · **Joined:** Sat Jul 11, 2015 11:05 am **Posts:** 276

^ Allright VW dude..... broke my back at work and suffered and should have a CARTER lift pump by Friday.

I cannot find the install thread for the CARTER P76148M....i will be ordering the lift pump harness from ID PARTS this week.

mass-hole · **Posted:** Tue Jun 13, 2017 9:55 pm

Bushman5 wrote:

^ Allright VW dude..... broke my back at work and suffered and should have a CARTER lift pump by Friday.

I cannot find the install thread for the CARTER P76148M....i will be ordering the lift pump harness from ID PARTS this week.

http://www.auerbach.ca/kj/lift_pump/

Bushman5 · **Joined:** Sat Jul 11, 2015 11:05 am **Posts:** 276

Thank You!

now will the ID PARTS/SASQUATCH MOTORSPORTS harness fit the CARTER pump?

http://www.idparts.com/liberty-crd-lift ... -2870.html

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Wed Jun 14, 2017 12:39 am

Perfectly

Bushman5 · **Joined:** Sat Jul 11, 2015 11:05 am **Posts:** 276

Thank you all. :BANANA:

My wallet and other bills are screaming though.... :banghead:

i also just picked up my ARB iron diff cover for the rear...lol

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Wed Jun 14, 2017 12:58 am

Bushman5 wrote:

My wallet and other bills are screaming though.... :banghead:

I can REALLY empathize with that!! :JEEPIN:

=

wallet

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Jun 14, 2017 8:11 am

Bushman5 wrote:

^ Allright VW dude..... broke my back at work and suffered and should have a CARTER lift pump by Friday.

I cannot find the install thread for the CARTER P76148M....i will be ordering the lift pump harness from ID PARTS this week.

See this thread for install instructions! :wink:

http://www.auerbach.ca/kj/lift_pump/

DieselJeepLuvr · **Posted:** Thu Jun 15, 2017 1:14 am

I've often said you can learn a lot from watching other people work. Both what to do and what not to do... :ROTFL:

Dez · **Posted:** Thu Jun 15, 2017 11:48 pm

I just did the diy wiring job and intank lift pump. Took me 2 1/2hr to drop the tank, install new pump and rewire the existing harness. Took me two days to find a place to purchase the plug pins though. This is my second time doing it. Did it on mine now I've done it on my wife's. Easy stuff. Removed the rear most bolts holding the seat and seat belts. Pulled carpet forward enough to gain access to the plug. Under the Jeep I removed the abs sensors with wiring because the red clips holding them ended up breaking off and I couldn't get them off. I drove around on Empty for a few days (i only drive 8mi a day normally) tank still had two gallons in it. I reused the green oring, I could not get the new one to compress enough to get the ring locked. I ended up cutting off the locating tab and swapped the arm from my old sending unit. If you have a limited then you have to remove the receiver hitch and metal skid plate first. Then 4 bolts to drop the tank. The fuel lines do not require any special tools to remove them. You just push in the white or red clips and they come right out.

joe_ · **Posted:** Fri Jun 16, 2017 12:52 am

Dez wrote:

Took me two days to find a place to purchase the plug pins though.

For anyone about to do this and looking for parts, I found the connector pins at Jameco Electronics: female terminal / male terminal
Heads up: if you're ordering just the needed pins, it comes in under their minimum order amount so they add on an extra $5 fee. Grand total around $10 shipped.
May want to order some quality wiring harness tape as well.

Lift Pump for my 05 Liberty CRD???

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