Hoping to get a bit of help from you all:

2005 CRD with about 120k miles on it.
Had timing belt replaced a while back. All fluids were done about 3k miles ago

The libby overheats on hills. Found this out going over Steven's Pass, and then again going over Snoqualmie Pass. Now I can move the temperature need past halfway on some of the uphill streets in Seattle. Always though I cool back down fairly quickly when I'm back on flat or headed downhill.

Fan clutch replaced with Hayden...still overheats.
Not losing any coolant, and dealership flushed the system just to ensure good coolant...still overheats.
Coolant system pressure checks out fine.

Anything I'm missing? I've hit the red (and the fun beeps) while going over the passes...and that just sucks because I read so many of you have never even seen the needle move past the halfway mark. Would really appreciate some advice (and a good recommendation for a mechanic in the Seattle area.)

Thanks!

thermostat replaced? I know the sing of a bad tstat on our rigs is shown by a not warm enough condition, but what if it is stuck partially open under heavy load? also, it would be a good idea to check airflow through the radiator and intercooler.
good luck

Yeah, I talked with the mechanic about the tstat, but they thought what you were saying about it typically causing the rig to stay cool.

And...forgot to mention, I had the reflash done for the temp gauge, so that is reading correctly now...still overheating though.

Hopefully your dealer filled up the coolant correctly....there are quit a few posts here on how to properly fill the CRD so as to not get air pockets.
Maybe you should have replaced the water pump when you changed the timing belt or maybe you need a new thermostat?

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2002 Export CRD 2.5 Sport

Have you checked to make sure that the coolant hoses leading to the viscous heater were reattached correctly?

Trace your steps back, did the spike in temperature begin before or after the timing belt, did it begin before or after the Coolant flush?

Here's a simple quick test to see if the cause of the spike in temperature maybe a leaky head gasket or worse.

1. Cold engine, remove radiator cap and let out any previously built up cooling system pressure.

2. Replace radiator cap, start engine and let it run for no more then 60 seconds.

3. Remove radiator cap again and test for new pressure.

There shouldn't be any pressure built up in the cooling system after 60 seconds of engine run time. If even a miniscule amount of pressure is present under the cap, then it's not a good sign and you may have a leaky head gasket. You will need to perform a combustion leak test to confirm.

Also, is there any coolant in the overflow reservoir of the coolant bottle? The reservoir is part of the same bottle and is located to the right, there shouldn't be any coolant present in it.

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

Sounds like an issue of flow to me. Even though the system was flushed and pressure checks good does not mean that you have good flow through the radiator.

Questions: 1) Did the service facility use distilled water? Hard water, i.e. water with a high level of calcium will eventually clog a radiator. I highly recommend distilled water and OE coolant. 2) Was a new water pump installed with the timing belt? If you have impellor issues, then that will decrease flow through the system. I highly recommend an OE/VM water pump. 3) Has the thermostat been replaced? Don't know of an aftermarket direct replacement so the only way to go is OE for this one. 4) Are you losing coolant without any obvioua signs of the loss? There may be an issue with the head and or head gasket.

Steps to figure it out: 1) Never assume that everything is working properly; trust but verify. 2) This includes the fan clutch. Open the hood, reach in and turn the fan (engine off of course). If it spins for only a couple of seconds with a slight turn, all is well. If it spins freely with the same minor input, then you still may have a bad clutch. 3) Replace one part at a time until the problem goes away. That way, you will know for sure what part took care of it.

Diagnosis is the hardest part of any repair. Many years ago, I was involved in the repair of a Toyota truck that continuously overheated. One part was replaced at a time to find the problem. It ended up being a bad head gasket. Hope this helps.

FWIW,

Hoosier CRD

_________________
FWIW,
Hoosier CRD

#1 Liberty: '05 CRD Limited Stone White
(SOLD Dec. 2013)
#2 Liberty: ???
"Why guess when you can know?"- Carroll Smith

Replacing parts until you find the part that solves the probliem is what most incompetent Mechanics will do, you can find these incopetent mechanics at most any Chrysler stealership only now days they are called service technicians.
Anyway begin by checking the coolant temp with a thermometer to find out if the coolant is actually overheating or if the guage is lieing to you.
If the vehicle is found to be actually overheating then start testing the components in the cooling system, every componant can be tested for integrity before replacing it. For example remove the tstat and put it in hot water to see if it is opening all the way.
If the head or head gasket is the issue you will be loosing coolant into the crankcase, out the exaust, or externally a compression test and visual inspection will soon determine if there is an issue with the head or head gasket.
Check the oil for coolant in it.
If you are not losing coolant then check for restrictions in the coolant flow and air flow through the radiator. Test the water pump for preasure and flow volume.
There are many test you can do to narrow the problem down, if you just start replacing parts you can spend thousands of dollars before you find the part that solves the problem.

Perhaps I should clarify a point from my earlier post:

Rather than replace every part until the problem goes away, perhaps one should evaluate and eliminate the possiblity of a certain component being a problem before moving to the next.

For example, can you verify that the water pump was in fact replaced during the timing belt R&R? Can you verify that the thermostat was replaced at some in time in the recent past? Does the fan clutch function properly? And so on. I have seen new, out of the box parts fail on installation.

In all due respect to Tailfeathers post, the ability to test the various components for proper function is only possible if the shop has the proper equipment and/or knowledge for each of these tests to be conducted. Not to mention possessing the integrity to actually do the test in the first place and honestly report on the results.

As I write, I have a new thermostat for a CRD Liberty sitting on my desk. Placing it in a pot of boiling water to check function is great in theory. Actually seeing if the thermostat itself is opening is something all together different. In my opinion, one would be hard pressed to actually see the thermostat opening and closing in this particluar case. Measuring the temperature of the coolant in a reservoir is entirely possible as well. Pressure testing a water pump on a CRD will involve actually getting to it. By the time a technician does all of the disassembly on a CRD engine and physically gets to it to test, especially on a CRD, it may as well be replaced. It's that difficult.

These mongrels are not as easy to work on as a small block Chevrolet in a Nova. In fact, it has been said that one should be both double-jointed and be blessed with small hands in order not to drive yourself nuts trying to accomplish anything under the hood.

While yes, one can certainly test for a leaking head gasket, and you should eliminate that item as being good or bad, I still contend that ruling out the components, one by one, by whatever means that is the least costly, is the best route. On that point, Tailfeathers, you and I agree. My hunch is that either the radiator is partially clogged and works great as long as there is little load or, even though the clutch was supposedly replaced, it may still be bad. As stated earlier, diagnosis is the hardest part. I have never seen a water pump tested for flow, I've only heard about a thermostat being tested in a pot of boiling water. The other tests are plausible in a shop, i.e. headgasket integrity and radiator flow. Technicians, dealership based or not, will take the path of least resistance every time. Experience with the particular vehicle will teach them which part(s) to look to and test/replace. The process of elimination takes many routes.

Lastly, while I may not be a certified ASE master technician or the like, I have worked professionally as a Service Technician for Volvo and BMW, a Service Advisor for Toyota, and currently work in the diesel industry and speak with and work around technicians on a daily basis. I've worked on everything from Slant 6 Dodges to Jaguar E-Types to finally Jeep Liberty CRDs. I know just a little as to where I speak.

Hoosier CRD

_________________
FWIW,
Hoosier CRD

#1 Liberty: '05 CRD Limited Stone White
(SOLD Dec. 2013)
#2 Liberty: ???
"Why guess when you can know?"- Carroll Smith

Do you have an OBD tool that can read out for you the coolant temperature while it's overheating?

The the Jeep new to you and now driving in this area you see this behavior of the gauge, or it started sometime after the T-belt change, or you've owned it since new and it's always done this?

The best single tool I have for overheating issues of any sort is my infrared thermometer. It is exceedingly easy to locate hot spots or determine temperatures in differing spots on an engine. Bad head gaskets are traditionally checked for by looking for bubbling in the radiator, and I would guess this would find that problem, as well as leaky wet sleeves.

_________________
Grid power- the one true essential

2005 Liberty CRD- ARP studs, Fumoto, Hayden FC, inline Tstat, ETechno 7v GP, Platinum P1, in-tank lift pump.
1983 Volvo D24T
1981 Volvo D24
Dodge Cummins TD
Case 580B
Mitsubishi MT180 diesel
Kubota BX25 diesel

Thanks everyone for your input.

I have had the CRD for a few months now, and don't really know the history. Ran just fine for the first couple months and then started acting up
The overheating started before the timing belt change...and has continued.
I replaced the clutch with a Hayden, and it passes the test just fine.

The radiator flow has not been checked, so I'll add that to the list. This seems to line up with the only overheating under load idea.
I've been using the Torque application to read the temp output while driving and it matches with the gauge. I think an infrared thermometer would be a good thing to try out.

I'll do the test for the head gasket leak as well, although I've seen no bubbles.

Not sure this is related, but after the timing belt I've started getting a CEL P101. I cleared it a couple times and it came back. Unplugged the MAF and plugged back in. Also took it out and inspected...super clean...and again, this happened after the timing belt.

Here's a question for you: I bought the water pump to be installed during the timing belt change, and they ended up deciding against installing it (said it was a lot more job and they typically don't replace unless it's leaking) and giving me $$ back for the water pump. Am I missing something...isn't the water pump install done with the front cover off...so makes sense to do it at the time of timing belt?

Here is what I understand to be the case: The timing belt cover is two pieces, front and back. The back side of the cover must be removed in order to get to all of the water pump mounting bolts. This means one has to remove the cam gears (special tool, VM1085, required). If you are just changing the timing belt, you take off only the front half of the cover, R&R the belt and then you are finished; a much easier and quicker job.

The goal is to not have any issues for the next 100k miles, especially catastrophic ones. When doing the timing belt, typically ALL of the related parts are replaced, i.e. tensioner, idler pulleys, thermostat, water pump. If the water pump fails, i.e breaks, and being that it is driven off of the timing belt, then you have valvetrain damage (these are interference engines) due to the timing belt getting out of sync and the engine loses time.

Also, again from what I understand, if the now 100k plus mileage-worn water pump develops a leak at the seal, you don't always realize the leak has developed. You gradually lose coolant until--Presto!-- you now have an overheating scenario which can warp and possibly crack a aluminum cylinder head pretty quickly. Then you're into a head gasket R&R, hopefully not but possibly a new cylinder head, etc. etc. etc. You get the idea. It is a snowball effect for sure. And it is all because the shop did not do the job as thoroughly as possible when given the opportunity.

More brutal honesty here: You asked for the water pump to be replaced, sounds like you even provided it or at least were willing to pay for it. My guess is that the shop, once they started getting into the job, realized all that was involved in changing the water pump on a CRD Liberty engine and decided that it was too much for them to handle and did not change it. They may have given you money back and were honest enough to tell you that it was not changed, BUT, they ultimately short-changed you because: 1) The job was not completed as thoroughly as it should have been and 2) When future issues occur, i.e. water pump, or any other timing belt related part fails, then it is you who is going to pay for those repairs, not them. Any warranty they offer will cover the work that they performed, not part failure that results from it not being changed when it should have. Hope this helps.

FWIW,

Hoosier CRD

_________________
FWIW,
Hoosier CRD

#1 Liberty: '05 CRD Limited Stone White
(SOLD Dec. 2013)
#2 Liberty: ???
"Why guess when you can know?"- Carroll Smith

Thanks Hoosier.

...and that's what I thought. The bummer is this work has all been done by the Jeep dealership, so I hope they didn't feel overwhelmed by getting all the way in to the water pump. And so yes, guess now all I can do is hope and pray the pump lasts another 100k.

Tried cleaning the outside of your radiator? From the back side preferably... You would be amazed what gets stuck in there and would cause issues with cooling due to lack of airflow.

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2006 Liberty CRD Limited

Provent @ 43,000 km
SEGR in progress
SAMCO Sport hoses @ 48500 km
Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac LT225/75R16