thanks to all in advance. you have all been so helpful with past repairs.

so, when taking my foot off the pedal, a clanking noise occurs from the rear and a bit of a jerk. i have noticed this for a while (at 110K now), but have only taken it seriously now when i pulled up to a bank teller today and the undercarriage noises bounced off the wall so i could hear them, and after the jerk there was a bit of clanking. i would say grinding, but it really wasn't that - more of a slow clanking.

any ideas? rear diff?

raymond

First thing I would check is the rear most u-joint. When you park it block the wheels, put in neutral, and see if there is any looseness at the rear joint. Also check diff fluid.

If the u-joint is junk get the Napa house brand. They have grease fittings so you can maintain it.

Hope all works out. Post what you find.

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2005 Red KJ CRD, TOTALED 12-21-11

2005 Blue KJ Sport CRD, GDE, Magnaflow muffler, Destination AT, Amsoil filters, Fumoto, Timing belt and waterpump @ 99,600, 11 blade nylon fan, 2905 hayden fan clutch, EURO TC




Arguing about whether the glass is half full or half empty misses the point: the bartender cheated you.
Unknown

thanks woodtick,

you were right on - there is a lot of play in the rear u-joint! diff fluid is fine.

any links to changing the u-joint? any special tools required?

much obliged.

Glad it's nothing else. What I do is go to Napa and buy the Napa house brand. Greasable via a needle fitting, lifetime warranty too I believe. Then I take them to a local drive-line shop hand them the the u-joints and drive shaft and for about $25 each they press the new ones in. Then go home and reinstall, then grease with mystic marine grease, brag to the wife about how lucky she is to have me, then, have a barley pop. Then periodically I hit them with a little grease when doing normal maintenance. They seem to last a long time then.

The harder way is to press them in yourself using a bench vise and a socket smaller than the bearing cup and one with the inside larger than the bearing cup. On our KJ's you need 2 sets of hands because it's a 3 piece shaft and has a antivib flywheel lookin' thing. More of a PIA. You need to make sure the needle bearings don't get sideways while pressing. If you wreck one the new joint is junk. Usually this way results in much sweating/ swearing, wife feeling not so lucky to have me.

_________________
2005 Red KJ CRD, TOTALED 12-21-11

2005 Blue KJ Sport CRD, GDE, Magnaflow muffler, Destination AT, Amsoil filters, Fumoto, Timing belt and waterpump @ 99,600, 11 blade nylon fan, 2905 hayden fan clutch, EURO TC




Arguing about whether the glass is half full or half empty misses the point: the bartender cheated you.
Unknown

thanks again for the invaluable info. been debating whether i wanted to press myself w/ vice or buy harbor freight c-press for $60. didn't know about the three piece aspect to the drive shaft, and the second pair of hands aren't that helpful, so probably will go w/ driveline shop option.

Did you decide to let shop do it or are you gonna DIY? This is a fairly easy job if you have a bench vise. When you replace them (or have them replaced), make sure you grease the spline on front end of shaft really good before reinserting which will greatly reduce the slop when shifting. I think some have drilled and installed grease fitting for greasing spline.

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Solar Yellow 2001 TJ Sport 4.0 auto 4X4
White 2006 Liberty Limited 2.8 CRD 4X4...SOLD 4-21-2012