It is currently Sat Jun 23, 2018 10:01 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 345 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 14, 15, 16, 17, 18
Author Message
 Post subject: Re: ARP head studs
PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2018 5:33 pm 
Offline
LOST Member

Joined: Thu Oct 22, 2015 8:07 pm
Posts: 393
Location: Southeast Michigan
I don't think I've ever heard of anyone installing the studs first.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: ARP head studs
PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2018 10:37 pm 
Offline
LOST Addict
User avatar

Joined: Sat Aug 27, 2016 9:12 pm
Posts: 1821
Location: Oregon Coast Dairy Country. Land of stumps, dumps, and "Liquid Pumps"
Steve777 wrote:
Getting ready to install a new HG and head on my project CRD and have ARP studs. Thanks for the description/steps here. I did have one question though:

The instructions which came with the studs suggested installing the studs in the block, then fitting the head over the studs. Seems to me that would make for a harder alignment when lifting the head on than necessary. I would think that one should clean/dry the stud holes. Fit the HG and head. Then install the studs using the procedure here.

Just curious to get feedback from those of you who have done this, which is the easier method, install studs first, or place head first?

I can tell you with absolute certainty, that if you install all the studs first, you will never get the head to fit down around them.
If you are assembling the engine removed from the vehicle, installing perhaps 2 studs might help keep the head aligned and possibly prevent lifters falling over, but more than that would be a pointless increase in difficulty.
With the engine in the car, there is just not enough room between the block deck and the wiper gallery / cabin air inlet wall.

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: ARP head studs
PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2018 1:14 am 
Offline
LOST Addict
User avatar

Joined: Thu Sep 06, 2007 9:51 pm
Posts: 5858
Location: Somewhere between Heaven and Hell... But it is really hot here on Earth...
I have on occasion used two studs as guides, but as was stated - you will NEVER get the head to fit with all 18 studs installed in the block first. Just don't do that.

Follow the procedures from here, not the ARP printed instructions - those directions are for VW engines or any other engines that the specific kit fits.
There are two locating dowels (the big circles that hold the head gasket) right above the head gasket, but using two studs as alignment pins is helpful. Be sure to spray down the block, gasket (both sides), and head underside with the copper sealer, and wait at least 5 minutes for it to get tacky before installation.

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
Provider of high quality CRD service in your driveway.
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email (button below) is preferred to PM
Over 70 CRDs currently driving with my timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Just remember: Bad noises = REALLY bad things.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: ARP head studs
PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2018 12:06 pm 
Offline
LOST Newbie

Joined: Thu Jan 07, 2016 2:19 pm
Posts: 40
Location: Shelton, WA
geordi wrote:
I have on occasion used two studs as guides, but as was stated - you will NEVER get the head to fit with all 18 studs installed in the block first. Just don't do that.

Follow the procedures from here, not the ARP printed instructions - those directions are for VW engines or any other engines that the specific kit fits.
There are two locating dowels (the big circles that hold the head gasket) right above the head gasket, but using two studs as alignment pins is helpful. Be sure to spray down the block, gasket (both sides), and head underside with the copper sealer, and wait at least 5 minutes for it to get tacky before installation.



I followed the instructions on this site (sans copper gasket seal because the gasket I used said "install dry do not use sealants" right on the thing, I've been told this is new tech with the material, don't know) and my head is working perfect. I didn't use alignment studs for the rocker cover and was worried sick about a rocker slipping off, then saw a post about using a couple alignment studs for the rocker cover install, doh.

_________________
Purchased 2006 LIberty CRD 82,000 Sport 2016.01.06
Since purchase:
Sam's NOOB Checklist Completed
SS Cat Back Exhaust, Full EGR Delete, EH Mod to Provent, Michelin 245/70 R16 AT/2
Stock Tune, Serpentine Belt Service,160 Amp Alternator
10/2017 96K, New Head, Injectors, ARP Studs...
04/2018 99K, New Reman Trans with goodies from StreetSmart


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: ARP head studs
PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2018 12:21 pm 
Offline
LOST Addict
User avatar

Joined: Thu Sep 06, 2007 9:51 pm
Posts: 5858
Location: Somewhere between Heaven and Hell... But it is really hot here on Earth...
Glad your install is working. Hope you took the opportunity to have the head verified by a machine shop and installed new valves.

As for the "install dry" on the head gasket, that rubbery coating on the gasket is a type of sealer, but if there are any remnants of the old seal or scratches from removal of the old seal... That new VERY THIN factory coating may or may not be sufficient. The copper spray is designed to work in concert with that coating, and has not shown itself to be any issue on any of the engines I have assembled with it. Much of the information on this board has been developed in concert with manufacturers of the parts that we are upgrading, and while I would not expect them to alter their documentation just for one group of end users, the procedures here may offer better performance than just what is from the parts documentation.

ARP for a specific example has many instructions with the stud kits - those directions are NOT sufficient for our CRDs, and the only approved torque numbers are 130 lb-ft for positions 1-10, and 120 lb-ft for positions 11-18. I do not recall what the ARP directions state for final torque, but our numbers aren't it. Following the procedures here is simply a way to arrive at the "best practices" result, although other options may also be sufficient.

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
Provider of high quality CRD service in your driveway.
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email (button below) is preferred to PM
Over 70 CRDs currently driving with my timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Just remember: Bad noises = REALLY bad things.


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 345 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 14, 15, 16, 17, 18

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Andres, Baidu [Spider], Exabot [Bot], rancherman and 34 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB © 2000, 2002, 2005, 2007 phpBB Group. Color scheme by ColorizeIt!
Logo by pixeldecals.com