Just finished torquing the ARPs. Went to 130 inside (1-10) and 120 outside (11-18). #1 head bolt had what looked like water/coolant on it, and kinda smelled like coolant. That was the only one like that. I assume that these are not tapped into a water jacket, and any water had to come from the head gasket? The bolt was not rusted, and did not look like it had been exposed for a long time. Let me know if there needs to be sealant on the #1 stud, but I'm assuming not, and crossing my fingers that if the head gasket did leak, the ARPs will mash it closed.
Geordi,
About the HF torque adapter, yes that is what mine is. I tried to use the memory but gave up and used it like this: If it is set to PtoP (the default on mode), when you apply a torque, that torque will remain displayed until you reapply. So I unscrewed my bolts until they broke, wrote down the torque displayed on the wrench, and finished unscrewing. Also, the torque adapter was very close to my craftsman clicker. I plugged it into the clicker, set both to 110 for initial torque, and both reported at nearly the same displacement. I know that's a little off because of the adapter losing torque at the wrench head, but it's close. Typically I had to go and extra 3 ft. lbs on the adapter to get the wrench to click.
_________________ JBA 4" lift, IRO Tri-link w/ wwdiesel bracket, JBA sliders, 235/85-16 Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs, Mercedes Benz forged ultralight wheels, Weeks stage 1 and 2, Weeks lift pump and harness, Weeks battery tray and AGM battery, GDE tune, Suncoast TC, updated front pump, HDS 001 T-stat, ARP studs, Front and rear Detroit/Eaton Truetrac LSD.
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