Hi i posted this earlier in a different heading(new at this) i own a 2005 crd and want to change my exhaust I am going to get a GDE eco f/t and need to get my timing belt done. What should i do first, timing belt, gde eco tune, then exhaust? whats the best way for the exhaust from turbo? pipe to performance muffler eliminating the cat? any imput would be appreciated. Also thanks to the two responses in the post hello from s jersey

The order you do this depends on what your odometer reading is and the state of your finances which relates to how you handle the TB job (DIY or pay someone) not to mention your location relative to other helpful forum members. If money is no object order doesn't matter that much except with respect to the timing belt which really needs to be done before you get more than a few miles over 100,000 and the TB job cost can range from $75 for a DIY change of just the belt to ca. $1,600 to pay someone to do the whole job replacing everything including the water pump.

On the other hand if you are not at the point where the TB job has to be done soon go ahead and do the GDE tune and save up for the TB job.

Exhaust - IMHO to the extent you will get any benefit just replace the muffler and the short section of restrictive pipe and leave the CAT alone. Total cost ca. $75-100 although I have not yet bothered.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Thanks papaindingo, I have 98,000 miles so TB water pump thermo and pulleys are first. What do you mean by restictor pipe is
That after the cat or before

I'd agree. Where are you located? I ask because some of us have tools. The TB job is, with the right tools, not technically hard and can be easily done in about 5-6 hrs or perhaps faster if one is experienced but I don't like to rush this sort of thing. The water pump adds about another 5 hrs, the complexity of taking the cams off (proper tools are critical here as the cam gears are not keyed to the shaft so making sure everything stays locked in place is critical) and rather difficult to access WP bolts, at least until someone determines if it's ok to just swap in the new front housing/impeller assemble onto the existing back 1/2 of the pump. One school of thought is to check the pulleys and water pump and if the bearings are solid and not weaping grease just do the belt and any "bad" bearings. The other school of thought is forget checking and replace everything. On any given day I can have either opinion although I suspect when the time comes I'll do it all if for no better reason than I already have the bearings and water pump and would anticipate only doing the job once in my lifetime given how much I drive now that I'm retired. Within limits the problem with predicting bearin life is a bit of a guess since they tend to last until they quit and quiting can be now or much later with any bearing new or old.

If you look carefully, it's not immediately obvious, the entire exhaust system is the same diameter EXCEPT the inlet flange on the muffler where there is about 3-4" of pipe, from the connector to the muffler, that's 1/2" smaller in diameter. When replacing the muffler it's a good idea to get rid of that restriction, but I'd keep the flange that bolts the pipes together.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

I just had the muffler shop cut out everything from the tail of the cat back to just aft of the muffler. They welded in a 2" pipe from just forward of that restriction to behind the muffler. think there is one bend in there. Deleted the flanges etc. cost all of $60. Still fairly quiet to stand next too, no noise difference in the cabin, except I can hear the turbo spool up better.

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

I must be an idiot im not sure what you mean. Did you keep the cat and then remove everything including the muffler to the tailpipe and replace with a 2in pipe. Sorry for my misunderstanding

Yup exactly cut the pipe between the CAT and the flange, and then right behind the muffler. Installed a 2" pipe to replace all including muffler.

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

Same here, but because that flex pipe after the turbo is flexible, I was able to make a straight pipe fit (no bending required) and it cost me the same, 60 bucks.

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05 CRD Sport Dark Kahki

RRO: Adventure Rack/Rails ** MOPAR: Skids/Renny Flares & 255/75r17 (32.1) BFG M/T on JK wheels ** ARB: Bumper/IPF lights/790/948/shocks ** GDE: TCM/Hot Tune ** ROCKLIZARD: Super Sliders/Komodo Bumper

My Build Thread
US Army Infantry

Just had a magnaflow 12226 muffler and a3" tailpipe installed today,I also deleted the cat. I sounds Great!