Original complain.

Solution
Ok, I found the problem was at the pinion in the differential. Bearings were worn out some how. I bought a kit that came with all the bearings and stuff for a complete rebuild and after a day of head scratching replacing the differential bearing my Libby sounds and feels like a PULLMAN again
all in all $195 against about a $1000 that a good shop with the know how would charge

Good for you.

Can you share the part number and the source where you bought it?

_________________
2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

Hope you get long lasting good results from your repair. However, this is a common problem with these rear ends. When the pinion bearing gets noisy, usually the R&P, other bearings and everything else needs replacing as well. The pinion depth needs to be checked along with the contact pattern. This is beyond most of us and all the parts alone are over $1000. So, the cost of not getting it done just right is hefty.

Most of us should leave this type of work to the experts.

BTW, if your ARE pulling your diff apart, it's a great time to install a Detroit TrueTrac. It's a seemless LSD with no clutches to wear out. Just put one in my Excursion. Never know it's there until you need it. Will be installing one in the Jeep when the warranty runs out. (Two clutch replacements in less then 100K with the TrakLok on the CRD.)

DOC

_________________
2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

I assume you mean front differential, since you were talking about the noise being from the front. I have a noise as well from the front that I suspect is from a bearing in the front diff. Haven't dug in to it yet, would like to find out if the front diff from a gas liberty is the same. Anyone know if the gas and diesel front diff are the same?

I missed that it was in front. This is NOT that common. Everything else I said still applies. I believe a TrueTrac is available for the front, but 3-wheel drive is almost as good as true 4-wheel drive. I would not bother with it unless you always only drive in mud.

DOC

_________________
2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

It was the rear diff.
The R&P were in perfect shape, just the the wear expected at 80000 miles, and they did not need replacing as the problems with the bearings was caught early enough to prevent damage to other major components. BTW yes is not a change oil kind of job, it is tedious, and not fun as only on the bearing cups preload adjustment I spend 2 hours. Also the gear pattern fell right on as specified by the service manual with the drive toe and coast heel centered in very well.
And now I am a happy CRDer again!!!!! specially because of the $800 still in my pocket...

Autozone offers 2 differential bearing kit repairs. one is Taiwanese and the other is made in California. I bought the one made in Cali but I don't have the part as I have already gotten rid of the packing. The kit comes with the pinion bearings, the cup bearings, collapsible spacer, front diff seal, Blue silicon, thread lock and gear marking compound so you can set-up the proper backlash at the installation time. Also, since I had all apart already I replaced both rear wheel bearings and seals. all together was $189 dollars and a long day of not so good mood LOL.


You might want to replace the driver wheel hub, It is the most common one causing front end bearing noises. Off course you still want to check them both before you get into part ordering mode. here is a link for good inexpensive front hubs though http://www.ebay.com/itm/130584779165?ss ... 1497.l2649. good luck and get those noises fix before they transform into hell of expensive repairs.


Did not have to replace the R&B other wise I think it sounds like a great idea.

Figures I don't see this until today... I just picked up the CRD from my local shop, was in for a similar repair. I noticed excessive play in the pinion bearing and I had been hearing the 50+/- mph hum for some time now. The shop is awesome and very reasonable with prices so I would rather a guy that has been working on rear ends for 25 years do the job then me just read about it and stress about it! They also have a guy that has and knows the dealer computers but doesn't charge the dealer prices!!

They ended up replacing the flange, seal, Royal Purple syn. fluid, and set pre-load. the Jeep has over 120,000 miles now and he said the wear on the R&P looks normal and still has plenty of life left. Did the job for right around $300, he also said he bought a good flange that was close to $100... seems decent.

_________________
-05 Dark Khaki Limited CRD. GDE ECO tune. In-tank lift pump, Transgo doo doo kit, B&M trans cooler, replaced trans solenoid pack and filters, Newer Michelin tires, Timing belt with all related parts replaced at 110,000miles.

That is a good price for an oil change with pre-load adjustment, just ask what would it be when they actually have to take the diff out and apart to replace all bearings, then setting all adjustments all over again. If less than $500 plus parts then it would be a price to gape about.

First place I went was to the front hub and bearing on the drivers side. Replaced it, but no change in noise at all. Pretty certain noise is from the front left side of the vehicle, and the front diff is biased to this side. Still looking for anyone who might know if the gas liberty and the diesel have the same front diff. If I can't find out if those diffs are the same, I might try isolating the noise by removing the front cv shafts, and front driveshaft between the front diff and transfer case. That would eliminate any possibility of the front Diff spinning.

Thats a bunch of work though, and would love some help on interchange of Diffs--if I'm going to do that much work, I might as well just swap out the diff and dig into the one in the vehicle now at my own leisure.

Try replacing the front diff oil and check everything inside closely before you dive into that much work. I know how you feel it is really frustrating to have difficult to locate noises.
On a side note, have you replace the passenger front hub? I did both of mine at the same time and the passenger side its ok. If you want to I can ship it to you so you can test it before you actually buy it. let me know. you will just pay for the shipping which it should be 10 or 12 bucks.

I have not replaced passenger front hub and bearing assembly, but I did check front diff oil level, which was fine. I have literally replaced hundreds of front hub and Bearing assembly's in the course of my job, so I'm used to what they sound like when they begin to go. Usually you can drive them in a quiet setting and load each wheel by turning one direction or the other which will increase the audible noise on the bad side. With this noise I can load either front wheel without any audible difference. It is there constantly as long as the wheels are turning and is definitely related to a bearing rotation. Looked at getting to the cover on the front diff, looks like the diff would definitely need to be lowered to get the cover off and do any inspection. I'm leaning towards a front pinion bearing, or side bearing on the front carrier. I'm going to call a junkyard I deal with regularly tomorrow to determine compatibility of a gas Libby front diff and a diesel front diff. If it is the same and I can isolate the noise to the front diff, I might just get a used one and swap them out, then dig I and figure out what bearing is bad when I have time. I'll post an update if I figure anything out.

good luck

i am having tha same issues also. front left whining noise and now just the other day when i am slowing down i get this vibration come from the rear end area. did a check in the rear diff and all looks good. i have a 1/16 inch side to side play on the pass rear axle. chould this be it. wondering if a dry u-joint could be. they feel tight.

_________________
06 Liberty CRD. Samcos, EHM, GDE ECO Full Torque & Trans Tune, Euro TC, T-Belt, In Line T-Stat, Updated fuel filter head,

Checking the Ujoints its easy..... make sure they are solid with no play at all, if you can grease them do it and try again. Pay attention where the noise is coming from, if it is only from the front I would leave the rear diff alone. If the noise is coming from the rear, you might want to raise the CRD rear on jack stands and put it on drive so that way you can pay closer attention to where the noise is coming from. If it is coming from the rear diff you might want to open it and visually inspect the R&P for the amount of wear and pattern, also check the backlash (gap at the R&P) you might only need to adjust it (best case scenario) or rebuild it (not best scenario )
good luck

i gave the rear r&p a good once over. i found that the rollers in the bearing are a little looser than i think they should be. the bearing cage moves like it should but i don't think the rollersshould move that much. with a little bit bigger pry bar about 20" i can see a little up and down movement. i mean a little . but no side to side movement, and the gear pattern looks to be ok. back lash ok. is a little side to side play in the rear axle ok?

_________________
06 Liberty CRD. Samcos, EHM, GDE ECO Full Torque & Trans Tune, Euro TC, T-Belt, In Line T-Stat, Updated fuel filter head,

What you mean by the bearing cage? the actual bearing cup or the differential case where the bearings are mounted on? on either case that probably means that the bearing pre-loaders need some adjustment which will also have a direct effect on backlash, which at the same time can produce noisy bearings.
Here is a link to download the CRD service manual and parts fiche. Go to page 118 on the service manual and you will be able to get a better sense of the problem you are chasing.
http://colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/

yes the bearing cup. thanks for the link to the service manual. a big one to download. i will look through it and see what i can do. also my wife informed me that the rear noise all started after she had to brake hard for someone who ran a red light? thanks .will post when i get done with the rear diff. good or bad

_________________
06 Liberty CRD. Samcos, EHM, GDE ECO Full Torque & Trans Tune, Euro TC, T-Belt, In Line T-Stat, Updated fuel filter head,

let us know how it all comes out!! If you need to replace bearings at the diff there is a nice inexpensive kit at autozone with all you need for a 100 bucks!!!
good luck

i am starting to wonder if the pass. axle having some movement in and out might be my problem. never had any movement before.

_________________
06 Liberty CRD. Samcos, EHM, GDE ECO Full Torque & Trans Tune, Euro TC, T-Belt, In Line T-Stat, Updated fuel filter head,