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 Post subject: CRD main bearings question.
PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 7:32 pm 
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Who has had the bottom of their CRD motor opened up? I have been inspecting a knocking noise and have yet to fond the culprit. Rod bearings all look great as well as the cylinders and wrist pins. How much are the three center floating main bearings suppose to move around? I have never seen a main bearing design like this so I do not know what movement is ok and what is not. Hope someone has some advice...

Thanks
Mitch

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 Post subject: Re: CRD main bearings question.
PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 8:52 pm 
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 Post subject: Re: CRD main bearings question.
PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 11:52 pm 
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SargeIndustries wrote:
Who has had the bottom of their CRD motor opened up? I have been inspecting a knocking noise and have yet to fond the culprit. Rod bearings all look great as well as the cylinders and wrist pins. How much are the three center floating main bearings suppose to move around? I have never seen a main bearing design like this so I do not know what movement is ok and what is not. Hope someone has some advice...

Thanks
Mitch


Any pictures? It'd be great to see what you're looking at.

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 Post subject: Re: CRD main bearings question.
PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 12:40 am 
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Sounds like you're wanting to know end-play on the crank journals? (0.003-0.011 in.)

Do you have a service manual?

I think the information you're seeking is around pages 9-182 'Engine Specifications' '2.8L Common Rail Diesel Engine' (page 1447 on the PDF).

Mark

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 Post subject: Re: CRD main bearings question.
PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 1:17 am 
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Main journal clearance is probably less than .003" so you shouldn't feel any play. Rod and main bearings generally won't go out. are you sure the knocking was even in the engine? Could have been tranny or TC related. How many miles and what updates/upgrades have been done?

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 Post subject: Re: CRD main bearings question.
PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 1:30 am 
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DieselJeepLuvr wrote:
Main journal clearance is probably less than .003" so you shouldn't feel any play. Rod and main bearings generally won't go out. are you sure the knocking was even in the engine? Could have been tranny or TC related. How many miles and what updates/upgrades have been done?


The tolerances are rather extreme - I'm used to gassers...

Front main clearance - main journal to bearing: 0.000-0.001 in.
Center main clearance - main journal to bearing: 0.0003-0.0002 in
Rear main clearance - main journal to bearing: 0.001-0.003 in.
Rod clearance - journal to bearing: 0.0008-0.0029 in.

Kinda makes you want to stay on top of that oil change! :rockon:

Mark

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 Post subject: Re: CRD main bearings question.
PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 3:31 am 
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msilbernagel wrote:
Sounds like you're wanting to know end-play on the crank journals? (0.003-0.011 in.)

Do you have a service manual?

I think the information you're seeking is around pages 9-182 'Engine Specifications' '2.8L Common Rail Diesel Engine' (page 1447 on the PDF).

Mark


I have the service manual. The crank end play is fine. It is the three center main bearings that have me concerned with their floating around movement. Doesn't make sense to me that the rods would all be fine and the three center main bearings would be worn. My vehicle has 115,000 miles on it. I recently blew a transmission oil line and now I get P0841, P0733, and P0000. I was hoping the noise was coming from the tranny, but when I talked to local diesel mechanics with 30 years experience, I was told that transmissions do not make knocking noises when they have something wrong. That is why I decided to open up the motor before a rod came through the block. I will make some phone calls tomorrow...

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 Post subject: Re: CRD main bearings question.
PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 6:09 am 
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P0841, P0733 are transmission related codes.

P0841 (LR pressure switch rationality)
P0733 Gear 3 Incorrect ratio

Nothing there points to the engine that I can tell.

Unless you have an electrical problem that affecting the engine too? In which case, the knock could be misbehaving injectors or bad timing. If that were the case I'd expect to see codes for the engine also...

Are those are 'old' codes from the earlier transmission failure that just haven't been cleared? Loss of oil pressure when the line let go might account for them.

I guess since you're in there, might as well measure clearances against the specs and see if things appear rational.. bona-fide mystery..

Mark

SargeIndustries wrote:
msilbernagel wrote:
Sounds like you're wanting to know end-play on the crank journals? (0.003-0.011 in.)

Do you have a service manual?

I think the information you're seeking is around pages 9-182 'Engine Specifications' '2.8L Common Rail Diesel Engine' (page 1447 on the PDF).

Mark


I have the service manual. The crank end play is fine. It is the three center main bearings that have me concerned with their floating around movement. Doesn't make sense to me that the rods would all be fine and the three center main bearings would be worn. My vehicle has 115,000 miles on it. I recently blew a transmission oil line and now I get P0841, P0733, and P0000. I was hoping the noise was coming from the tranny, but when I talked to local diesel mechanics with 30 years experience, I was told that transmissions do not make knocking noises when they have something wrong. That is why I decided to open up the motor before a rod came through the block. I will make some phone calls tomorrow...

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 Post subject: Re: CRD main bearings question.
PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 12:27 pm 
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[quote="msilbernagel"]P0841, P0733 are transmission related codes.

P0841 (LR pressure switch rationality)
P0733 Gear 3 Incorrect ratio

Nothing there points to the engine that I can tell.

Unless you have an electrical problem that affecting the engine too? In which case, the knock could be misbehaving injectors or bad timing. If that were the case I'd expect to see codes for the engine also...

Are those are 'old' codes from the earlier transmission failure that just haven't been cleared? Loss of oil pressure when the line let go might account for them.

I guess since you're in there, might as well measure clearances against the specs and see if things appear rational.. bona-fide mystery..

Mark

Those codes are from when the tranny line failed. I clear them with the scan gauge but they will continue to come back. I had the battery unhooked over night and the codes went away for a while. When a mechanic power braked my jeep, in order to make it knock louder, the codes were set again. I think the underdrive or overdrive clutch is now damaged inside the tranny...

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 Post subject: Re: CRD main bearings question.
PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 12:46 pm 
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Randy B wrote:
Give VM a call
Diana Dupuie

VM Motori North America
1187, Centre Drive Auburn Hills
Detroit, Michigan 48326

eMail:ddupuie@vm-na.com
Phone: 248-977-5901


Diana nicely said that I need to be calling chrysler....

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 Post subject: Re: CRD main bearings question.
PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 1:20 pm 
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I'd get the transmission serviced before doing a lot of additional work?

Mark

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 Post subject: Re: CRD main bearings question.
PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 3:12 pm 
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msilbernagel wrote:
I'd get the transmission serviced before doing a lot of additional work?

Mark


That is the next area I will be researching. Spoke with Keith this morning and came to the conclusion there is nothing wrong in the motor.

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 Post subject: Re: CRD main bearings question.
PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 2:03 am 
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SargeIndustries wrote:
msilbernagel wrote:
I'd get the transmission serviced before doing a lot of additional work?

Mark


That is the next area I will be researching. Spoke with Keith this morning and came to the conclusion there is nothing wrong in the motor.


Well look on the bright side. You got to see the inside of the shortblock and you'll have all new gaskets! I can rib you though because once I installed a newly rebuilt motor and tranny in one of my rigs (one of the many) and within a day or two it aquired a knock. I scoped it but couldn't pin down a location and was just about to pull the motor for a teardown when a buddy of mine stopped by and said check your torque converter bolts. Sure as ship one had come loose. I always use red loctite on them now!

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New at 164K: head gasket, rockers, exhaust valves, ARP head studs, Injectors, 5v Bosch glow plugs, water pump, timing everything, serpentine everything,
New at 225k: new head, timing belt


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 Post subject: Re: CRD main bearings question.
PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 2:20 am 
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Location: Hillsboro. OR
DieselJeepLuvr wrote:
SargeIndustries wrote:
msilbernagel wrote:
I'd get the transmission serviced before doing a lot of additional work?

Mark


That is the next area I will be researching. Spoke with Keith this morning and came to the conclusion there is nothing wrong in the motor.


Well look on the bright side. You got to see the inside of the shortblock and you'll have all new gaskets! I can rib you though because once I installed a newly rebuilt motor and tranny in one of my rigs (one of the many) and within a day or two it aquired a knock. I scoped it but couldn't pin down a location and was just about to pull the motor for a teardown when a buddy of mine stopped by and said check your torque converter bolts. Sure as ship one had come loose. I always use red loctite on them now!

I had my TC bolts come loose on mine as well. I checked those before I tore into the engine and found one slightly loose, but that wasn't the noise. I am getting prepared to rebuild the tranny. According to the service manual my underdrive clutch is the one that is damage since it threw a code power braking in first gear. Then there is the low coolant light that comes on now and again, which means that I am looking at a head gasket job as well. I am going to know this vehicle inside and out!

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 Post subject: Re: CRD main bearings question.
PostPosted: Sun Aug 15, 2021 11:42 pm 
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Reviving an old thread. @sargeindustries did you ever figure out the source of your ticking noise? I’m chasing a what sounds to be a similar thing?


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 Post subject: Re: CRD main bearings question.
PostPosted: Fri May 06, 2022 11:53 am 
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Yes, It was the torque converter bolts backing out again and and contacting the bell housing spacer in between transmission and engine. Better use red loctite on those torque converter bolts if you are running a heavy Suncoast torque converter.

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