So I bought me a Fumoto oil drain valve...

1stepp · **Posted:** Sun Oct 16, 2011 7:13 pm

to install in my new to me CRD and what did I find when I changed the oil this afternoon?
A wacky rubber plug and threads on the oil pan that are toast :banghead:

... at least the first couple so the Fumoto valve won't go on. :furious:

Besides replacing the pan, what are my options?

Frustrated in New Mexico.

bebey · **Joined:** Fri Oct 22, 2010 3:08 pm **Posts:** 62

Retap new threads into the oil pan. I had to do it on mine when an oil place overtightened the bolt. No problems since.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Sun Oct 16, 2011 8:46 pm

Yeah - and you can also search on 'stripped oil drain' and get about 4 pages of hits

this one seemed to have good info (although I didn't read them all)
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=526249#p526249

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Sun Oct 16, 2011 9:03 pm

What they said. Retap to larger size. Order larger size fumoto to match.

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Sun Oct 16, 2011 9:44 pm

keep CRD with out fumoto away from oil change shops is a good idea

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Oct 17, 2011 8:31 am

I believe geordi did a heli coil repair that went well. You might PM him.

drtydzel · **Posted:** Mon Oct 17, 2011 10:36 am

Fumoto valve is key and makes life so easy that was the first thing i did to mine now i just use the old quart bottles for my oil changes i put one under the valve drain into once its full stop switch out to the next bottle then i just drop off the refilled bottles at a turn in point makes my life so easy and ensures oil pan safety. Plus with me I am military and deploy so i pre-measure oil for my wife and got her a good filter wrench now she can do it on her own with out making a mess.

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Mon Oct 17, 2011 1:49 pm

Go to NAPA and get a helicoil repair kit. Take the fumoto valve with you to match same thread.

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Oct 17, 2011 7:29 pm

Yep, I fixed mine, but not with a helicoil - That was my first thought tho.

This works *IF* you already have a single-oversized drain plug that is ALSO stripped, I believe our size is supposed to be M18. The parts stores will sell you a single-oversized drain plug, there is a listing for a double-oversized but my stores didn't have that. I had ALREADY had a single-over in my pan, didn't know it... So I had to do something different.

What worked for me was a spark plug thread repair, m14-1.5 I believe was the size. The kit had a thread cutter which fit great in the wrecked threads, and cuts them just a little bit deeper so that a solid collar (MUCH BETTER than a helicoil) will thread into the new threads. They have nice deep threads in the inside of the collar, and this is hardened steel so you don't break the new ones.

Put it in to just about flush with the bottom of the pan, with these little diamond-shaped teeth on the outside at the end closest to you (so they thread into the pan LAST). Take the little tapered ram that is in the kit, put it into the collar so it presses against the inside of the diamond teeth - And tap it with a wrench or mallet. It won't take much to spread it a little bit, LOCKING the collar in place.

Now, a new plug... What to do, right? My parts stores didn't have a proper thread of the EZ-drain (only had M14-1.25, this collar is M14-1.5) so I got a simple bolt in that size, and an o-ring rather than a crush washer OR a fiber washer. You don't need to gorilla the bolt, the o-ring provides the seal and it hasn't leaked a drop or tried to loosen itself. As a matter of fact, it is about time for me to do an oil change from when I did this, so I will get to see exactly how clean it should still be under there since this repair.

$30 for that kit, is a LOT better than umpteen $$$$$ to jack the engine to replace the pan. Yea, you can't do that in your driveway, too much crap in the way under the pan and IN the pan.

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Mar 13, 2012 2:14 pm

No leaks, no loosening of the plug, the only thing I would add is that when snugging down on the o-ring, it looks like I am flattening the o-ring, but I don't go far enough to really crush it or have it spread out past the shoulder of the standard plug I'm using. The o-ring was NOT a snug fit around the threads of the bolt, it was just a touch wider, to drop on easily and not wander too much side-to-side. This bolt has threads all the way to the shoulder, there is NOT any gap at the shoulder or narrower spot like on a normal drain plug.

(which is why our stock threads get wrecked - oil monkey puts stock plug in without proper washer, wider base on plug jams and strips hole. Another brilliant Chrysler design choice.)

camo · **Posted:** Tue Mar 13, 2012 9:31 pm

1stepp wrote:

to install in my new to me CRD and what did I find when I changed the oil this afternoon?
A wacky rubber plug and threads on the oil pan that are toast :banghead:

... at least the first couple so the Fumoto valve won't go on. :furious:

Besides replacing the pan, what are my options?

Frustrated in New Mexico.

LOL I'm sorry but could not hold it. Can't believe there is people that do this kind of repairs!!! :ROTFL:

No disrespect.

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Tue Mar 13, 2012 11:40 pm

What I'm seeing is that the many oil-change outfits aren't careful and strip the oil drain plug. I am (as we speak) figuring out how to fix the plug in my daughter's Dodge Intrepid (aluminum pan, wouldn't you know...).

The self-tapping oil drain plug (NAPA) is one solution but while it may work I don't think it will stand up over time and continued abuse by the very people who over-torqued it in the first place; and, my daughter is unlikely to ever change her own!

Plan 'B' looks like this: http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1_1331623636346/page_41032

NOTE: this is for her Dodge. I don't know the thread size/pitch off the top of my head.

It's a more serious solution. Their description reads "Time-Sert oil drain plug repair kit for aluminum pans with metric 14x1.5 size plugs. This kit is a must for any repair shops that perform oil changes. One aluminum drain plug thread repair can save hundreds of dollars! This kit not only restores the oil pan back to it's original 14x1.5 thread size... it makes it STRONGER! This kit part number 1415C is commonly used on Honda, Acura and Chrysler vehicles with aluminum pans that have metric 14 x 1.5mm drain plugs. Why replace an oil pan for around $500 when this repair can be done on the vehicle for a a fraction of the cost? Are aluminum threads stronger than the steel threads? Of course not, that's why TIME-SERT thread inserts are a better option than replacing an aluminum oil pan. This kit is frequently used on GM's, Ford, Chrysler products and Hondas - it can be used on any make with 14mm size drain plugs."

Looks robust and I've seen others who've used it recommend it for the same aluminum-abused-by-the-hurried problems we're facing.

:dizzy:

Mark

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

I'm a big fan and user of timesert threaded inserts. They have saved my butt many times, just recently on a water pump replacement.

UFO · **Posted:** Fri Mar 16, 2012 11:41 am

camo wrote:

1stepp wrote:

to install in my new to me CRD and what did I find when I changed the oil this afternoon?
A wacky rubber plug and threads on the oil pan that are toast :banghead:

... at least the first couple so the Fumoto valve won't go on. :furious:

Besides replacing the pan, what are my options?

Frustrated in New Mexico.

LOL I'm sorry but could not hold it. Can't believe there is people that do this kind of repairs!!! :ROTFL:

No disrespect.

It would not surprise me to learn the oil change shops stock these in a variety of sizes.

Squeeto · **Posted:** Fri Mar 16, 2012 12:28 pm

UFO wrote:

It would not surprise me to learn the oil change shops stock these in a variety of sizes.

Smart. Gets the customer on the way with a quick/temporary fix. I can see these oil change shops getting stripped threads coming INTO the shop all the time.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Mar 16, 2012 12:44 pm

It's the ones that strip the threads, do this and keep it a secret I worry about.

1stepp · **Posted:** Mon May 28, 2012 3:28 pm

Tapping the pan today

. Wish me luck! Hopefully I won't end up :furious:

CobraDreaming · **Joined:** Tue Aug 23, 2011 9:24 pm **Posts:** 20

Good luck. I just put in my Fumoto yetserday. The therads were a little tighter on it than I would have liked and I was in fear as I was tightening it down it was going to strip. It finally snugged up without issue. Whew.

Sorry for your issues. Hope it resolves well

1stepp · **Posted:** Mon May 28, 2012 5:03 pm

Did you do anything to the Fumoto before you installed it or just put in on with the included gasket, no dressing of any kind?

CobraDreaming wrote:

Good luck. I just put in my Fumoto yetserday. The therads were a little tighter on it than I would have liked and I was in fear as I was tightening it down it was going to strip. It finally snugged up without issue. Whew.

Sorry for your issues. Hope it resolves well

1stepp · **Posted:** Mon May 28, 2012 6:13 pm

Done. Torqued 10 to 15 to 20 ft-lbs and stopped. Now for the leak check. Maybe the Jeep can make it back to the driveway, maybe even the garage.

So I bought me a Fumoto oil drain valve...

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