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| Coolant in the overflow tank http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=67025 |
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| Author: | bugnout [ Wed May 23, 2012 10:00 am ] |
| Post subject: | Coolant in the overflow tank |
Ok, Theres coolant in the overflow tank and I keep getting a low coolant light. Bad Cap? what else could cause that? |
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| Author: | patmaz [ Wed May 23, 2012 11:17 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Coolant in the overflow tank |
Bad cap probalby,it dosent keep the pressure anymore,you dont loose any coolant right?The jeep dosent overheat?if not i d say yes for the cap... |
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| Author: | bugnout [ Wed May 23, 2012 11:29 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Coolant in the overflow tank |
It keeps pressure overnight, just pushing coolant out when it gets hot, but doesn't suck it back in when it cools. |
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| Author: | patmaz [ Wed May 23, 2012 11:45 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Coolant in the overflow tank |
It shoots coolant out of the overflow tank?Ok try to bleed the system first,with the engine cold,open the little plastic cap on the right top side of the radiator and remove the overflow cap to,start the engine,fill the tank until coolant come out from the little hole on the top of the rad,close both caps,get it warm,this should clear the system from any air,and then,if you still have the same overflow leak,change the cap on the overflow tank... |
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| Author: | bugnout [ Wed May 23, 2012 1:13 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Coolant in the overflow tank |
No not shooting out and I don't really have any reason to bleed the system. The issue is that excess coolant is sent to the overflow tank when the CRD is hot, should be sucked back in when it cools down. Not sucking it back in. So I get a low coolant light until it warms up again. There seems to be some pressure under the cap even when cold, which I think is not normal. So I'm off to NAPA to buy a new cap. |
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| Author: | racertracer [ Wed May 23, 2012 9:53 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Coolant in the overflow tank |
Someone had oil in his coolant and if I remember correctly, it was due to a broken oil cooler on the side of the engine near the water pump. Something about the oil cooler splitting internally and allowing coolant to mix with it. The oil cooler looks like a small accordian mad eof aluminum. You may want to check that out. |
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| Author: | Jimbob [ Wed May 23, 2012 9:58 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Coolant in the overflow tank |
I have been fighting this weirdness to. I think it was a mix of parts changout and behavior. 1. Started bleeding coolant, replaced several hoses behind the resivour, replaced cap, 2. Filled coolant bottle, it would push it into the overflow and out, would trigger the low coolant light after 70 miles. 3. Put the factor cap back on and burped the radiator (even though NAPA was the same weight) So far 300 miles and no low-coolant light and a healthy flow back and forth with the overflow, though still a little extra remains in the overflow but the line is staying at the cold fill. I think I had a bad cap and was overfilling it and just simply overcompensating. I have some other problems around the injector (dont get me started, this vehicle is finding a new home) again, with the compression pushing the threads out. I see a Kia Sportage or Tiguan visiting my driveway soon. |
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| Author: | bugnout [ Wed May 23, 2012 10:10 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Coolant in the overflow tank |
JimBob, sounds very much like whats going on in my ride. Thanks for the info. RT, I will check, don't really see any evidence of oil though, just low coolant light when I know there is plenty. PatMaz, thanks for replying. Don't think this is a big problem, just not working the way its supposed too. I can imagine that either the vacuum that is supposed to develop to pull the coolant back in is being lost by leaking hoses/connections or the cap isn't doing its magic. I'll let you know what I find when I solve this. |
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| Author: | racertracer [ Wed May 23, 2012 10:32 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Coolant in the overflow tank |
Coolant in the overflow could be due to a weak cap or the other unspeakable issue.. Miles on your rigs? Swapped your thermostat lately? Is the coolant in the system still OEM original from the factory? Ever mix coolants? |
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| Author: | bugnout [ Wed May 23, 2012 11:03 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Coolant in the overflow tank |
Good questions from Doctor Racertracer, I know you speak from experience Ok Miles on your rigs? >> 115000 Swapped your thermostat lately? >> I changed it out about 30000 miles ago, bled the system then, think I got most of the air out, didn't drain it, just took off the thermostat, most ended up on the floor, amount I added was about 1/2 of a gallon, pretty much what I estimated I washed down the driveway. Is the coolant in the system still OEM original from the factory? >> well mostly, except for the little bit of work I've done on the cooling system. I've probably put in about 1 1/2 gallons over the last 30k, replacing fluid I've drained. I'm planning on changing it soon, but in the process of checking the cooling system to make sure everything was ready, I ran into this problem. wanted to make sure everything was working correctly before I did the change. Your experience has me a little gun shy so I want to do it right. Would really like to do a running flush, but I afraid I'd be blazing a trail. I've got your procedure printed out and ready to go as soon as I'm satisfied I've fixed this issue. Ever mix coolants? >> Nope, original coolant looks good, flows freely and has low viscosity. But its 7 years old now, needs to be changed. |
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| Author: | racertracer [ Wed May 23, 2012 11:36 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Coolant in the overflow tank |
I've been scouring the italian forums searching for VM motori cylinder head issues, and here is what I have concluded so far. 1. Trapped air or vapor in the cooling system causing cylinder head problems in Land Rovers. Replacing and adding a small air purge hose on top of the system to a larger diameter hose solved the problem. 2. Not allowing the engine to reach proper operating temps before pressing the pedal to the metal. Eliminate quick temperature spikes before the engine has a chance to fully warm up. Aluminum head and the ironblock reach proper operating temps at different times, we must wait for the engine to reach normal operating temps in unison before stomping on it. 3. A clogged radiator or cooling system. 4. A failed fan clutch. 5. Faulty Thermostat. This is an ongoing search using Bing translator... i'll continue to post what I find. The following is a cut and paste of just one of the posts..... I dare to post it knowing full well that most of the message will be lost in translation, use Bing translator to make heads or tails of it. "La stragrande maggioranza dei motori diesel moderni ha un sistema di costruzione di tipo "misto": monoblocco in ghisa e testata in alluminio. L'alluminio ha un coefficiente di dilatazione termica quasi doppio rispetto alla ghisa. Tra monoblocco e testata è interposta quella che in gergo viene chiamata "la guarnizione di testa". In fase di riscaldamento del motore la guarnizione di testa è sottoposta a forti sollecitazioni, dovute allo "sfregamento" dato dalla diversa dilatazione della testata rispetto al monoblocco. Ci sono motori che risentono intrinsecamente di più, di questo fatto, altri meno: dipende da come sono stati progettati (materiali, spessori, tipo di guarnizione, coppia di serraggio dei bulloni della testata, ecc.) In ogni caso è evidente che uno stress della guarnizione c'è SEMPRE. Occorre fare in modo che questo stress non venga amplificato da un uso non oculato del mezzo. Il motore andrebbe sempre scaldato in maniera graduale: va acceso, si attendono alcuni secondi in modo che l'olio entri in circolo, poi ci si mette in movimento facendo in modo di avere una guida fluida, senza far sforzare il motore, ma senza esagerare col numero dei giri (in genere lo si tiene ad un regime tra i 1500 ed i 2000 rpm, finchè non è ben caldo). Questo tipo di riscaldamento fa in modo che le varie parti del motore si scaldino uniformemente ed in maniera simultanea, alleviando gli stress termici e quindi allungando la vita della guarnizione di testa. Anche i frequenti avviamenti del motore e/o usare il mezzo (soprattutto nel periodo freddo) per percorrere brevi tragitti, traggitti in cui il motore non arriva a scaldarsi che già occorre spegnerlo, agevolano la rottura della guarnizione di testa e/o la fessurazione della testata. Nel caso indicato, primo e più probabile indiziato è sicuramente la guarnizione di testa. Nei motori in cui il raffreddamento dell'olio motore è affidato ad uno scambiatore olio/acqua altro indiziato potrebbe essere la rottura del radiatore olio. (capita abbastanza frequentemente) La fessurazione del monoblocco tenderei ad escluderla in quel motore in quanto (se non vado errato) ha un sistema di "canne in umido", idem per la fessurazione della testa in quanto si sarebbe avvertito il problema ben prima di accorgersene per una spia di insufficiente livello olio" |
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| Author: | bugnout [ Wed May 30, 2012 10:07 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Coolant in the overflow tank |
Well, its working correctly again. Not sure why, I just cleaned the cap. Haven't taken a long road trip yet, but a week or so of normal commuting the overflow tank has been dry everyday. I did check all the connections and squeezed some coolant through each of the hoses a bit in case there was an obstruction. |
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| Author: | flman [ Wed Mar 06, 2013 3:34 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Coolant in the overflow tank |
bugnout wrote: Well, its working correctly again. Not sure why, I just cleaned the cap. Haven't taken a long road trip yet, but a week or so of normal commuting the overflow tank has been dry everyday. I did check all the connections and squeezed some coolant through each of the hoses a bit in case there was an obstruction. I just tested my cap for the same problem with the coolant going to the overflow tank last night. The cap was leaking out air out of the top and not holding pressure. So I put on a new cap, also pressure tested the cooling system with the engine off, and on to check for pressure pulsations. So if the cap leaks air, it will not allow the engine to siphon the coolant back when it cools down and contracts the coolant. |
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| Author: | beetlemn73 [ Tue Feb 16, 2016 7:16 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Coolant in the overflow tank |
I have a question regarding the radiator. I have a knob that turns 90 degs on the left side of the radiator. #1. What is the normal position of this knob? #2. Does this knob just turn or does it come off to bleed system? Thanks |
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| Author: | flash7210 [ Tue Feb 16, 2016 7:33 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Coolant in the overflow tank |
1. Parallel to the radiator 2. Turn it and it will pull all the way out |
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| Author: | bugnout [ Wed Feb 17, 2016 12:24 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Coolant in the overflow tank |
Yup, if you are refilling your system, this port comes in handy to get the air out of the top of the radiator. |
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