What Mods for a Daily driver CRD

marauderer · **Posted:** Sat Mar 18, 2006 6:34 pm

What I have gleaned from the list for mods is:

Performance box: Either the TS performance or the Dr. Performance unit. If someone feels I should consider another please let me know. These two box’s use both boost press and rail press to get their power increases.

Exhaust: I will be fabricating a 3” exhaust including the head pipe with a high flow cat. and muffler. I hope not to have the drone into the cab.

Cold air induction: Does anyone make one yet? If not I will have to build one. Hopefully someone will enlighten my ignorant stupid.so I won’t have to fabricate to much.

Some sort of gage display having egt, boost, tranny temps. Suggestions???

Tires will be the 245/70 x 16 BFG A/T KO

This will be a daily driver and will tow a trailer so I don’t want to go to radical to sacrifice reliability.

spoonplugger1 · **Posted:** Sun Mar 19, 2006 2:36 pm

I wouldn't mess with the engine, it's already putting out more torque per liter that the big trucks are stock. More than the Chevy, way more than the Ford, a little more than the new CRD Dodge. Mine pulls better than a 4.7L V-8 F150 already with a load. Raising your rail pressure higher, when it is already way up there will cause premature injector failures. The modules that increase duration might be the way to go if you must, but it's an awful lot of money to get relatively minor hp improvements, remember they use wording like "up to" or "may" instead of "will" in their advertisements.
Have seen absolutely no positive results on any intake system over the stock unit.
Exhaust seems to be a point where people say they can hear the turbo spooling up faster with that changed, heard of decreased turbo lag to the point it's nonexistent. Mine has little turbo lag now stock. What I had disappeared with the new EGR valve change when it was new. Haven't heard of anyone putting it on a dyno to see if it really changed anything to speak of.

oldnavy · **Posted:** Sun Mar 19, 2006 4:10 pm

I agree pretty much with Spoondigger 1 and unless you are racing, about the only power mod I see worth the money is the exhaust.

Taz · **Posted:** Sun Mar 19, 2006 10:25 pm

I third that, Open up the exhaust and let her breath, leave the rest alone.

Stan Wright · **Posted:** Mon Mar 20, 2006 1:13 am

I guess I'll 'fourth' it. I went to the garage tonight to see how the Magnaflow would fit under the Jeep and ended up installing the thing. The results are definitely worth the effort!

http://liberty.eurekaboy.com/magnaflow.htm

Ripple · **Posted:** Mon Mar 20, 2006 7:33 am

side is exhaust is kind of cool..hmm.

GMsKJ · **Posted:** Sat Apr 08, 2006 11:57 pm

Call me impatient but you've had 2 weeks now with your exhaust mod. What's your early opinion of how it is going? I have been toying with the glasspack or MagnaFlow idea for the past couple of weeks that I have owned my 06 CRD.

How about turbo whine? Is it any more distinct/ noticable with the MagnaFlow?

gsbrockman · **Posted:** Sun Apr 09, 2006 9:39 am

GMsKJ....I know your question was directed at Stan Wright, but from the "what it's worth department"......I could tell a somewhat notable difference in exhaust note with the #15870 Magnaflow System I installed on my CRD. Spool-up seems to be a tad quicker, and the volume of exhaust coming from the tailpipe is way more noticeable........I'm hoping all these things will contribute to lower EGT's and reduce idle time for shutdown purposes. Given the fact that JEEP uses the same exhaust system on the 2.4L, 2.8L and 3.7L engines, it would seem to make sense that any change in exhaust on a CRD would be an improvement IMO.

Here's a link to an article I'd written previously :

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... ight=15870

Greg

Stan Wright · **Posted:** Sun Apr 09, 2006 9:55 am

The exhaust mod is wonderful. The Jeep runs MUCH better. As far as sound, I can't tell any difference from stock. With the side exit exhaust I'm not getting the oily buildup on the back glass. I haven't washed the Jeep yet so I can't comment on the oily buildup just moving somewhere else.

No one around here (that I can find) mandrel bends exhaust pipes so I've got a few pieces ordered from Summit Racing. I'm going to see if I can make the side exhaust prettier than the flex pipe I have now.

When I'd let off the accelerator with the stock exhaust the Jeep would start slowing down. I noticed immediately with the modified exhaust the Jeep coasts instead. It was as if the restrictive factory exhaust was acting like a mild exhaust brake.

marauderer · **Posted:** Sun Apr 09, 2006 10:47 am

Great input so far thanks to all.

I am chomping at the bit to do my exhaust. I have decided to go with a 3" stainless exhaust from the Turbo back. I have ordered the 3" flex pipe, Diesel 3" hi flow cat, and a Flowmaster 3" straight thru Diesel muffler. It will be about two weeks to get it done. I will post pictures of the project when done. I have a few more things I want to do and will post as completed.

TDI4BY · **Joined:** Sun Apr 02, 2006 11:56 pm **Posts:** 644

I am thinking along the lines of the last poster, I have a bunch of Cummins exhaust parts and wondered If I could use the 4" Converter I have, I know it is huge but I have it. I also have a bunch of 3.5" and 4" pipe. Wonder what it would sound like.... :?:

gsbrockman · **Posted:** Sun Apr 09, 2006 12:55 pm

marauderer wrote:

Great input so far thanks to all.

Hey...that's my CRD....or is it ? :mrgreen:

Greg

retmil46 · **Posted:** Sun Apr 09, 2006 12:58 pm

Couple things I haven't seen mentioned -

Switch over to a good synthetic CI-4 or CI-4 Plus rated oil. Add a Provent or Oldnavy CCV filter at the earliest convenience. To me, this is big time in the "daily driver reliability" category. On the oil switch, IMHO, I'd do this in the 500 to 1000 mile range, after initial break-in is done. I've always done this on every vehicle I've bought, just to make sure all the leftover manufacturing debris was flushed out and also look for any indication that someone at the engine assy plant really screwed up to the point there's going to be major problems with the engine.

Keep an eye on your coolant tank for the first few hundred miles, and check the vent lines from the radiator and engine block to the tank, make sure they're not kinked off. If you see what looks like black sand accumulating on the bottom of the tank, or in my case, completely filling one of the compartments, GET YOUR OIL CHANGED ASAP, then get your cooling system flushed. Mine also had a good amount of white sand in it, not visible until I drained a sample from the radiator and let it settle.

retmil46 · **Posted:** Sun Apr 09, 2006 2:10 pm

I wonder if it would be possible to take the air filter housing from a Dodge Cummins and adapt it to fit in the CRD?

I'm not talking from a performance standpoint, but reliability and air filter life. It's starting to look as if the 3.7 V6 air filter and housing they used on the CRD could be undersized, as far as the amount of vacuum it's pulling on the intake system and filter life in general. That would have an effect on the CCV system as well, the more vacuum you pull on that CCV hose, the more oil you're going to pull into the intake system, especially as that filter starts to get dirty and clogged up.

oldnavy · **Posted:** Sun Apr 09, 2006 3:04 pm

When we did the testing for the new VW CCV couple years ago we found that there was basically no vacuum being pulled by the turbo out of the CCV, all we had to do was pull the hose loose from the CCV and put finger to the hose going to IC. You could not feel it sucking your finger at idle, and just barely at 4000 rpm. Where the airflow seems to come from is the natural pressure coming up the oil returns from crankcase and normal engine blow-by. As matter of fact when one of the testers placed a manometer in the system between CCV and IC the flow was extreemly low. I can't remember how much it actually was, but we were all supprised and wondered how the darn thing sucked so much oil out of the valve cover. If you really want to see where the airflow comes from just pull the CCV hose and put your thumb over the hose going to the IC and then put your thumb over the CCV.

marauderer · **Posted:** Sun Apr 09, 2006 3:19 pm

retmil46 wrote:

Couple things I haven't seen mentioned -

Switch over to a good synthetic CI-4 or CI-4 Plus rated oil. Add a Provent or Oldnavy CCV filter at the earliest convenience. To me, this is big time in the "daily driver reliability" category. On the oil switch, IMHO, I'd do this in the 500 to 1000 mile range, after initial break-in is done. I've always done this on every vehicle I've bought, just to make sure all the leftover manufacturing debris was flushed out and also look for any indication that someone at the engine assy plant really screwed up to the point there's going to be major problems with the engine.

Keep an eye on your coolant tank for the first few hundred miles, and check the vent lines from the radiator and engine block to the tank, make sure they're not kinked off. If you see what looks like black sand accumulating on the bottom of the tank, or in my case, completely filling one of the compartments, GET YOUR OIL CHANGED ASAP, then get your cooling system flushed. Mine also had a good amount of white sand in it, not visible until I drained a sample from the radiator and let it settle.

Thanks for the input RetMil46 (RM). I will be changing all fluids at the 500 mi mark. I will be using Amsoil 5-40 Euro Eng. oil and the appropriate Amsoil product in evry thnig else. The 545RFE tranny stock shift program in mine is very poor and I will be installing a Transgo shift kit which will really extend the life of the transmission.

In your other post concerning intake filter, RM, the intake is a very short run and I am looking at a conical filter to replace the stock with the special sock over it that keeps the silicates out of the motor. That with a couple of baffles to keep the water away from it and it should be a done deal. I gotta get ahold of Old Navy and get one of his CCV filters from him. Being a lazy git at times Ineed to get off the dime.

RM let your surfaces always equal your dives as it has obviously done that up to now.

retmil46 · **Posted:** Sun Apr 09, 2006 7:24 pm

oldnavy wrote:

When we did the testing for the new VW CCV couple years ago we found that there was basically no vacuum being pulled by the turbo out of the CCV, all we had to do was pull the hose loose from the CCV and put finger to the hose going to IC. You could not feel it sucking your finger at idle, and just barely at 4000 rpm. Where the airflow seems to come from is the natural pressure coming up the oil returns from crankcase and normal engine blow-by. As matter of fact when one of the testers placed a manometer in the system between CCV and IC the flow was extreemly low. I can't remember how much it actually was, but we were all supprised and wondered how the darn thing sucked so much oil out of the valve cover. If you really want to see where the airflow comes from just pull the CCV hose and put your thumb over the hose going to the IC and then put your thumb over the CCV.

I'm hoping that's the case with the CRD. However.....

I have communicated with someone who installed a Provent early on, had very little oil consumption afterwards and no oil getting thru the Provent, intercooler hoses nice and clean. Suddenly at around 10K miles, they lost 1/2 quart of oil over the course of one tank of fuel. Although the outlet of the Provent was still nice and clean, when they pulled the inlet hose to the intercooler, the inside of the turbo housing and the inlet hose were coated with oil. When they checked the air filter, it didn't look that bad according to their report. But after changing the air filter and cleaning the hoses, the sudden increase in oil consumption went away and the hoses were again staying nice and clean.

Their theory is that once the air filter was clogged past a certain point, under conditions calling for high boost it was creating enough of a vacuum to actually suck oil past the seals on the turbo. According to their report, their Provent checked out fine, no problems with the filter and no evidence of oil in the clear outlet hose.

The person in question does have a good deal of experience with different diesels, and according to them it isn't the first time they've seen this happen due to a clogged air filter.

oldnavy · **Posted:** Sun Apr 09, 2006 8:06 pm

retmil46 wrote:

oldnavy wrote:

When we did the testing for the new VW CCV couple years ago we found that there was basically no vacuum being pulled by the turbo out of the CCV, all we had to do was pull the hose loose from the CCV and put finger to the hose going to IC. You could not feel it sucking your finger at idle, and just barely at 4000 rpm. Where the airflow seems to come from is the natural pressure coming up the oil returns from crankcase and normal engine blow-by. As matter of fact when one of the testers placed a manometer in the system between CCV and IC the flow was extreemly low. I can't remember how much it actually was, but we were all supprised and wondered how the darn thing sucked so much oil out of the valve cover. If you really want to see where the airflow comes from just pull the CCV hose and put your thumb over the hose going to the IC and then put your thumb over the CCV.

I'm hoping that's the case with the CRD. However.....

I have communicated with someone who installed a Provent early on, had very little oil consumption afterwards and no oil getting thru the Provent, intercooler hoses nice and clean. Suddenly at around 10K miles, they lost 1/2 quart of oil over the course of one tank of fuel. Although the outlet of the Provent was still nice and clean, when they pulled the inlet hose to the intercooler, the inside of the turbo housing and the inlet hose were coated with oil. When they checked the air filter, it didn't look that bad according to their report. But after changing the air filter and cleaning the hoses, the sudden increase in oil consumption went away and the hoses were again staying nice and clean.

Their theory is that once the air filter was clogged past a certain point, under conditions calling for high boost it was creating enough of a vacuum to actually suck oil past the seals on the turbo. According to their report, their Provent checked out fine, no problems with the filter and no evidence of oil in the clear outlet hose.

The person in question does have a good deal of experience with different diesels, and according to them it isn't the first time they've seen this happen due to a clogged air filter.

Mitch what you discribe is indead really possible, I have seen a VW with an injested air filter, a turbo diesel will actually suck head gaskets in some cases trying to get air. I have seen bulkheads buckled from going circle W on a big diesel generator on a ship, I saw that after it happened. I had just checked the wife's airfilter last week and had to get a new one at 7300 miles, $18 list for OEM is tough nut to crack for most.

longarm · **Posted:** Mon Apr 10, 2006 3:48 am

..........

What Mods for a Daily driver CRD

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