Timing Pin Dimensions

TestDriver · **Posted:** Tue May 22, 2012 12:42 pm

Hello,

Can anybody here take a pair of calipers or a mic and post the timing pin tool diameters? I mean the straight shank parts and an approximate depth of the straight part.

I've searched high and low here with no results.

Thanks.

geordi · **Posted:** Tue May 22, 2012 1:37 pm

Can't right this second, but I will get back to you.

TestDriver · **Posted:** Tue May 22, 2012 1:42 pm

geordi wrote:

Can't right this second, but I will get back to you.

Thanks!

No problem. I'm not starting this till Saturday.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Tue May 22, 2012 2:02 pm

FRAK!

I can't find my timing pins otherwise I would help you out. Hopefully Mr Laforge can come through.

TestDriver · **Posted:** Sat May 26, 2012 12:02 pm

Hey guys, I'm about to start the tear down. Any possibility of getting me those pin dimensions in an hour or so?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat May 26, 2012 12:36 pm

Best I can do by hand with analog calipers.

Miller 1052 - Intake pin

Hex head - 0.75" across flats
Overall length 2.96"
Shaft length (base of hexagonal head to tip including threaded section) - 1.76"
Shaft diameter of the thicker section - 0.315" for 1.39" of the above shaft length (Note diameter of threaded section is 0.391")
Shaft diameter of 1st step down of the tip section - 0.275" for 0.3" of the above shaft length
the final 0.08" of the above shaft length is beveled at something like a 75 degree angle to create a 0.2" diameter flat at the pin's tip - I presume this bevel is to help guide the pin into the cam pin hole and that the 0.275" section is what actually locks the cam in place hence that is the critical dimension.

Miller 1053 - Exhaust pin - identical except as noted below

Hex head - 0.58" across flats
Overall length 1.932"
Shaft length (base of hexagonal head to tip including threaded section) - 1.65"
Shaft diameter of the thicker section is the same but the length of that section is only 1.25" of the above shaft length.

TestDriver · **Posted:** Sat May 26, 2012 3:00 pm

papaindigo wrote:

Best I can do by hand with analog calipers.

Miller 1052 - Intake pin
Hex head - 0.75" across flats
Overall length 2.96"
Shaft length (base of hexagonal head to tip including threaded section) - 1.76"
Shaft diameter of the thicker section - 0.315" for 1.39" of the above shaft length (Note diameter of threaded section is 0.391")
Shaft diameter of 1st step down of the tip section - 0.275" for 0.3" of the above shaft length
the final 0.08" of the above shaft length is beveled at something like a 75 degree angle to create a 0.2" diameter flat at the pin's tip - I presume this bevel is to help guide the pin into the cam pin hole and that the 0.275" section is what actually locks the cam in place hence that is the critical dimension.

Miller 1053 - Exhaust pin - identical except as noted below
Hex head - 0.58" across flats
Overall length 1.932"
Shaft length (base of hexagonal head to tip including threaded section) - 1.65"
Shaft diameter of the thicker section is the same but the length of that section is only 1.25" of the above shaft length.

Excellent! Thank you so much. I just got to that point so now I'll have good dimensions to machine some pins. I'm not going to make exact copies I'll just put out some straight shanks with the proper step down sections. It looks like I won't need to dismount the alternator.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat May 26, 2012 4:04 pm

No IIRC you do not need to get the alternator out of the way to get the pin in on that side. If your cams are in the proper postion for pin insertion there will be zero doubt as the Miller pins screw all the way in with no resistance. Anything different back off and reconsider what might be going on. I assume you know the 6mm allen key trick for the flywheel pin (if not see the 05 FSM). I'm really into overkill on caution and really don't like broken rockers so 1) leave the pins in while you remove/install the belt; 2) pull the 3 pins and manually rotate the engine 3 times (you will probably have to readjust belt tension after doing this); 3) reinstall the pins to double check final timing of ok remove the 3 pins; 4) if all is well engine should start and run just fine

On the theory that a picture is always helpful the links below take you to a picture of each of the tools or perhaps the pictures will magically appear. I have no clue as this is the first time I've tried this. Anyway pictures will help you see how I did the measurements.
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/libby/ ... tools8.JPG
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/libby/ ... ools26.JPG

If it doesn't work I cribbed the pictures from Sam's Miller tool post at viewtopic.php?f=5&t=62477&p=703254&hilit=miller#p703254 but that takes forever to load.

TestDriver · **Posted:** Sun May 27, 2012 10:04 am

papaindigo wrote:

No IIRC you do not need to get the alternator out of the way to get the pin in on that side. If your cams are in the proper postion for pin insertion there will be zero doubt as the Miller pins screw all the way in with no resistance. Anything different back off and reconsider what might be going on. I assume you know the 6mm allen key trick for the flywheel pin (if not see the 05 FSM). I'm really into overkill on caution and really don't like broken rockers so 1) leave the pins in while you remove/install the belt; 2) pull the 3 pins and manually rotate the engine 3 times (you will probably have to readjust belt tension after doing this); 3) reinstall the pins to double check final timing of ok remove the 3 pins; 4) if all is well engine should start and run just fine

On the theory that a picture is always helpful the links below take you to a picture of each of the tools or perhaps the pictures will magically appear. I have no clue as this is the first time I've tried this. Anyway pictures will help you see how I did the measurements.
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/libby/ ... tools8.JPG
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/libby/ ... ools26.JPG

If it doesn't work I cribbed the pictures from Sam's Miller tool post at viewtopic.php?f=5&t=62477&p=703254&hilit=miller#p703254 but that takes forever to load.

No worries. I had that site bookmarked and it was one of the resources I used to reference details of this procedure.

I got done late last night but it went fairly well. I don't usually make statements like this. And, seeing as how I work with OEM engineers daily, it's a definite possibility. If I ever meet up with the sensored word responsible for how difficult it is to get the darn fan off, I'll grab him by the throat and kick him in the nuts till I run out of energy to stand! It's been about 12 hours and I'm still pissed about how hard that was. It was the single most difficult step of all of this.

Anyway, thank you again for your help. Hopefully, I'll remember the lessons learned in another 100k and I won't battle with the God dammed fan again so much.

Cheers!

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun May 27, 2012 10:32 am

For what it's worth the short leg of a proper sized allen wrench inserted into 1 of the 2 small holes in the fan hub base at about 4:30 while jam up against a hidden bolt head and keep the fan base from rotating (there are other ways but this is the simplest); anti-seize on the fan nut threads makes future removal less hard; and any of several modes to the fan shroud (Aussie, semi-aussie, cut bottom of fan shroud off just below the bolts that hold it on) make future fan removal easy as you don't have to mess with the shroud at the same time.

Yes I'd agree removal of the fan and the shroud together that first time is a bear.

liberty2.8 · **Posted:** Thu Jun 21, 2012 2:11 pm

TestDriver wrote:

papaindigo wrote:

No IIRC you do not need to get the alternator out of the way to get the pin in on that side. If your cams are in the proper postion for pin insertion there will be zero doubt as the Miller pins screw all the way in with no resistance. Anything different back off and reconsider what might be going on. I assume you know the 6mm allen key trick for the flywheel pin (if not see the 05 FSM). I'm really into overkill on caution and really don't like broken rockers so 1) leave the pins in while you remove/install the belt; 2) pull the 3 pins and manually rotate the engine 3 times (you will probably have to readjust belt tension after doing this); 3) reinstall the pins to double check final timing of ok remove the 3 pins; 4) if all is well engine should start and run just fine

On the theory that a picture is always helpful the links below take you to a picture of each of the tools or perhaps the pictures will magically appear. I have no clue as this is the first time I've tried this. Anyway pictures will help you see how I did the measurements.
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/libby/ ... tools8.JPG
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/libby/ ... ools26.JPG

If it doesn't work I cribbed the pictures from Sam's Miller tool post at viewtopic.php?f=5&t=62477&p=703254&hilit=miller#p703254 but that takes forever to load.

No worries. I had that site bookmarked and it was one of the resources I used to reference details of this procedure.

I got done late last night but it went fairly well. I don't usually make statements like this. And, seeing as how I work with OEM engineers daily, it's a definite possibility. If I ever meet up with the sensored word responsible for how difficult it is to get the darn fan off, I'll grab him by the throat and kick him in the nuts till I run out of energy to stand! It's been about 12 hours and I'm still pissed about how hard that was. It was the single most difficult step of all of this.

Anyway, thank you again for your help. Hopefully, I'll remember the lessons learned in another 100k and I won't battle with the God dammed fan again so much.

Cheers!

Wow, I think I had the fan off when I replaced the alternator decoupler if I remember right. Don't remember it being that bad. Take care of my old KJ and let us know how it goes.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Jun 21, 2012 2:26 pm

There would have been no necessity to remove the fan to replace an alternator decoupler or an alternator but it would make access to the serp belt tensioner a bit easier. If you removed the fan, which requires removal of the shroud at the same time, I'd be real surprised if you don't remember what a royal f'ing pain it is even with the right tools.

Timing Pin Dimensions

Who is online