Anyone else having wheel bearing issues?
I think this is the third one to go out.
Going to have to check the receipts but these last two went quick.
Maybe it is that wonderful quality control everyone raves about.
Anyone have part numbers and a good supplier?

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'06 Jeep Liberty Sport CRD with: GDE Hot Flash and Tranny Flash, ehm, Cummins fuel pump, 3" Magnaflow muff, Moog K3199's, Skids, 225-75-16 10 ply, OME springs, Euro T/C, Shift kit, Trans cooler w/thermal bypass, Bigboy bkt, Samco CAC, Brake controller, Trans temp gauge, Al's Upper Arms

I just replace both sides with Timken units I bought from RockAuto.com. About $150 each, not the most expensive they had. Only have about 2000 miles on them so far so can't vouch for thier longevity.

TIMKEN Part # HA599455L Ball Bearing; Modified Flange Shape
Front Left; 4-Wheel ABS

TIMKEN Part # HA599455R Ball Bearing; Modified Flange Shape
Front Right; 4-Wheel ABS

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

I have a whomp whomp noise on right turns at speeds above 25-30 mph like getting on a free way exit or entrance ramp that correlates with speed and rotation of the tires. I am guessing it is a wheel bearing, but have not changed it yet to rule it out. Going straight down the road though, there is no noise. So it has something to do with side loading the left wheel.

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2006 Liberty CRD, 85,500 miles, ECO Tunes
Dark Khaki, Sport, Sunroof, Tow pkg
I added: EVIC, Cummins Fuel Pump, CAT Filter, Hour meter, heated seats
Michelin LTX2, Double Gauge Pod (Volt, Fuel Press)

For a noise like that on turns I'd first look at CV joints closely although a check for wheel bearings would also be worth the effort. Also IIRC there has been some chat about early failure of cheap bearings; not Timken (e.g. you often get what you pay for)

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Yup, You can find bearings on Ebay and Rockauto for half the price. $60-70. SKF brand at RockAuto are over $200. Never priced out EOM, but I'll bet there over $200 from the dealer.

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

Just did mine last weekend, exact same thing as bugnout...

I would refrain though from buying cheap, go for quality. Timken and SKF have good reputation...

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RIP 10/31/2012
Green Metallic 2006 CRD Limited
GDE Hot tune ~ Pre-F37 TCM ~ Transgo shift kit ~ MagnaFlow ~ Homemade Provent ~ OME 2" lift & Airlift ~ Samco ~ Euro TC ~ Lift pump ~ Nylon fan blade & Hayden clutch ~ Etc!

Just ordered the Timkens.
Thanks.
No more junk replacement parts, if i can help it.

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'06 Jeep Liberty Sport CRD with: GDE Hot Flash and Tranny Flash, ehm, Cummins fuel pump, 3" Magnaflow muff, Moog K3199's, Skids, 225-75-16 10 ply, OME springs, Euro T/C, Shift kit, Trans cooler w/thermal bypass, Bigboy bkt, Samco CAC, Brake controller, Trans temp gauge, Al's Upper Arms

Is there a how-to on here to do the bearings?

If you have torx sockets, a soft dead blow hammer and the sense to use thread solvent liberally once you have the new part you should be able to figure it out.
The torque specs, I do not know.

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'06 Jeep Liberty Sport CRD with: GDE Hot Flash and Tranny Flash, ehm, Cummins fuel pump, 3" Magnaflow muff, Moog K3199's, Skids, 225-75-16 10 ply, OME springs, Euro T/C, Shift kit, Trans cooler w/thermal bypass, Bigboy bkt, Samco CAC, Brake controller, Trans temp gauge, Al's Upper Arms

You don't need torque specs, mine have been on for 30k and never a problem. I did the Timken bearings from OEM-Parts.com for about $180 for the pair, but that was 14ish months ago.

You will need a big socket for your wheel nut, and some torx bits for the bolts (3 if I recall on each front wheel). Make sure you pay attention to where your ABS sensor wire is before you remove it and put it back in the same place when you replace the bearing or your calipers will hit it (SONOFA, Happened to me) and you'll have to take it all off and rotate it 120 degrees.

Should take you about 4 hours for both sides with a good 1 ton floor jack and a pneumatic gun for the axle nut (Trust me, broke an 18" breaker bar trying manually). The ABS and Brake lights that come on when you change it will go out after you drive about 1000 ft.

Go ahead and put some lifetime warranty brake pads on it while you're in there too, couldn't hurt.

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Silver 2006 KJ 2.8L CRD Limited:
GDE ECO Tune / Fumoto Valve / E-Tecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs / 2nd Gen Fuel Head / Mishimoto RED Hoses / Rockers/Lifters @ 114k / Hayden FC + 11 Blade Nylon / Sears P1 Battery / Transgo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Kit / Timken Front Bearings