Fan Clutch life

nissanfrontier · **Joined:** Tue Dec 22, 2009 4:09 pm **Posts:** 145

I have noticed gauge on my 2005 is higher than when new. Could fan clutch being weaker, who has replaced there's. How easy is it to remove. Will bmw newspaper trick work on jeep clutch, you warm it all way up and try to stop blades.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Jun 19, 2012 9:48 am

Could be a host of things.
1. how much higher? Normal position is about 1/2 needle width left of vertical but summer heat/heavy AC use/towing could cause it to go slightly higher to maybe dead vertical.
2. if you have the OEM metal fan and fan clutch that fan won't cut in until the temp gauge is about 2 ticks above vertical. The 2006 FSM, see Sir Sam's NOOB guide for a download like, has a simple test method for fan clutch engagement (pg 7-61). Typical replacement is a Hayden 2905 clutch often combined with the nylon gasser fan (52079654AE or 52079654AD). Removal and replacement are not technically hard but can be annoyingly difficult as the fan clutch nut tends to be on tight (when replacing use anti-seize); you need some mechanism to hold the fan base while breaking loose the clutch; and you have to remove the fan shroud with the fan (use cardboard or a towel in front of fan to avoid radiator core damage). See http://www.beesvillebeefarm.com/jeep.html for some holding hints. If you do this I'd strongly recommend a fan shroud mod to make future access easier - see viewtopic.php?f=98&t=64278&p=709322#p709322 for a link to the Aussie mod (what I used but with zip ties instead of screws) and a simpler variation.
3. other causes - AC related issues including low freon and AC electric fan not working; bugs/dirt/whatever clogging AC condensor and/or radiator (flush from rear with water); overheating tranny; bad engine coolant circulation (use of coolant other than HOAT can clog radiator and/or heater core); one member had problems when he misrouted a coolant hose during tstat replacement; viscous heater working overtime (unplug relay to disable it); internal coolant leak (see forum chat especially racertracer re. cylinder head issues).

I could go on but this is a start.

nissanfrontier · **Joined:** Tue Dec 22, 2009 4:09 pm **Posts:** 145

Not loosing any coolant think fan clutch has slowly lost it's swagger. Just went ahead and ordered the part. I realize you are correct shroud will only come out with clutch and blades no other way. Now figuring a tool to hold water pump in place and brake bolt loose holding clutch.

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

BTW, unless you are towing or 4x4'ing up steep grades in 90 deg F or hotter temps, why bother with a fan? I been fan free for about 6 months this year and haven't had a problem yet. Yesterday it was pushing 100 deg F and vehicle ran steady at one needle width left of center on the temp guage in city and highway driving.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Jun 19, 2012 1:13 pm

This is the how to that I sent lancer a few days ago. The only things holding the shroud in place are the 2 10mm bolts and a couple of plastic clips the bottom of the shroud slides into (those clips are not really retainers just slots); there is a floppy piece on the bottom of the shroud that comes out with it; no it's physically impossible to remove the shroud without removing the fan and clutch at the same time which is why I referred you to the shroud mod writeups; no O'Reilly's doesn't have a tool that I know of.

1. you need a long handle 36mm wrench for the fan nut (FYI it's a regular thread so it unscrews counterclockwise as you face the front of the engine); either a hammer or extension for the wrench handle as that nut is on there pretty tight; and something to hold the fan base in place while you loosen the fan nut. If you could see the front of base the fan clutch screws to you would see 4 large cutouts and 2 directly opposing small holes (http://www.beesvillebeefarm.com/jeep.html - scroll down to the placement of the allen wrench picture). Some folks make a tool (handle with inverted "V" at the end with pins to engage the 2 holes) to hold the fan base while loosening the fan nut while others (myself included) use the allen wrench trick. The latter works although it can be a bit tricky for one person to hold the allen wrench in place while turning the fan nut until the allen wrench jams in place after which it's easy. Loosen the fan nut but do not loosen it all the way.
2. the fan shroud has 2 10mm bolts - 1 on each side of the shroud about 1/2 way down that need to be removed and CAREFULLY set aside so you use those exact bolts for shroud reinstall. Do not misplace these as bolt length is critical - too short they won't hold - too long and they will puncture the radiator. The bottom of the shroud simple fits into 2 tabs. Undo both bolts; look closely at the pipes/hoses on top of the shroud and you will see zip ties to several little plastic pads; cut the zip ties.
3. now that the fan shroud is loose it's a good idea to place a piece of card board or a towel between the fan and the radiator to protect the radiator core from damage and if you are working outdoors you might put something on the ground to catch the nuts those fan shroud bolts screw into just in case (NOTE those nuts just sit in retainers and I'd recommend some hot glue or zip ties be used to make sure they will never fall out of the retainers). Once that's done you can finish unscrewing the fan assembly and then lift the fan assembly and fan shroud out as one package of stuff. Those pipes and hoses can be pushed out of the way over the engine and IIRC the fan shroud has to be rotated slightly toward the driver's side to clear the upper radiator hose.
4. reinstall is pretty much the reverse although there is no need to tighten the fan nut beyond finger tight as regular engine rotation will do any needed additional tightening. You will need to replace the zip ties holding stuff to the top of the fan shroud as that keeps things from rubbing on the top radiator support.

PS yes I know a number of folks run with no fan but I don't plan to join the group. Call it lack of nerve or whatever.

ChooChooman74 · **Posted:** Tue Jun 19, 2012 2:15 pm

Thanks papa. My next "must do" project before my camping trip.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

nissanfrontier · **Joined:** Tue Dec 22, 2009 4:09 pm **Posts:** 145

Yeah going through desert the temp went up pretty good going up some steep hills with trailer she was one tick off red. Obviously I back off and turned on heater full blast to cool things down. Jeep runs hotter as temps outside climb. I drove yesterday without any load and she did go 3/4 up hill. When new I never had that happen and suspect the fan clutch. The jeep has never had gauge calibration done it's 2005 so I hope red is still ok temp wise. Should I abort the fan clutch replacement maybe swing over to dealer for calibration.

Here is picture of setup not 2 heavy

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Jun 19, 2012 4:57 pm

I suspect 2 things based on your comment that when new this never happened assuming "this" refers to the temp gauge rise.

1. the OEM fan clutch on the 05 is "supposed" to be less reliable than the 06 but in any case if you want you can run a quick check by using the method I mentioned (FYI you may also want to get a copy of the 05 manual - the online 05 lacks diesel cooling system data and all system diagnostics but has picture keys while the 06 is the reverse). While there are other possible causes that I mentioned a replacement of the fan clutch with or without adding the nylon fan is a worthwhile investment and may fix your problem per my comment below.
2. the gauge calibration should have nothing to do with this "NEW" problem, assuming the temp sending unit is ok (only way I know to test is pickup an inexpensive IR thermostat from Amazon and check (sometime back geordi posted typical temps at various points on the engine), as you appear to have a real temp rise. BUT if you have the gasser calibration the gauge is going to give you a false high. I suspect you have the gasser calibration because with that calibration you can run all the way to red or nearly so without any of the automatic engine overrides that reduce performance to reduce heat cutting in and you don't mention that happening.

So bottom line my best at a distance quess is you have an over heat problem (hopefully just a dead fan clutch) and a gasser temp gauge calibration. I'd fix the cause of the temp rise before worrying about the calibration. If you do go for the calibation take a copy of the TSB, I can provide if you email me, to make the service writer aware of the issue. In my case I had the gasser calibration and when I went in the :banghead:

service writer gave me all sorts of static until I said 1) you will do the TSB check because that's all I'm authorizing you to do, 2) if the reader says no calibration was or needed to be done then I know I have a diesel temp gauge calibration and another problem in which case I'll pay no more than 15 min. shop time, 3) but if the reader does the calibration then I'm right and per the TSB I'm not paying :2cents:

. End of discussion, although I did indicate I'd be happy to have the same conversation with the service manager, and to cut to the chase I needed the calibration and did not have to pay. FYI at least one member likes running with the gasser calibration because it gives him more detailed temp information.

I can say my son's 06 ran in AZ 110F temps without any heat rise regardless of terrain and when we came back from AZ to Tally 3 weeks ago with 2 adults in a fully loaded CRD pulling ca. 2000-2500 lbs in a 5 X 8 UHaul the temp gauge stayed pegged at 1/2 a needle width left of center.

nissanfrontier · **Joined:** Tue Dec 22, 2009 4:09 pm **Posts:** 145

I was just thinking how about belt tensioner? If it was slack it may not spin fast enough.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Tue Jun 19, 2012 7:11 pm

The fan cultches on many 05's failed very early :banghead:

There is a fan clutch better suited for the operating temperature of our CRD's.
It's a Hayden 2905 and it's temperature that it kicks in at is the same as the CRD's 176 degree operating temperature.
the OEM fan clutches is the same as the gas engines that operates at a mauch highter temperature. Then while you have the fan and clutch out put on a 11 blade nylon fan from a gas liberty with the towing option :BANANA:

You will be rewarded by a much quieter fan that moves more air.

There have been several threads about this modification.
Try doing a search on "Hayden 2905".
Here's a thread I started with pictures and info :JEEPIN:

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=69145&p=739662#p739662

Our trailer weights around 3500# loaded and only once did it get above half way.
How much does that Bambi weight?

nissanfrontier · **Joined:** Tue Dec 22, 2009 4:09 pm **Posts:** 145

It's cool setup bambi is under 4k beefy little trailer. Pulled 80mph going uphill lol during night time flying past big rigs like there parked. During hot day I would never do such thing build to much heat. I stopped the clutch replacement not having tool to hold thing from turning. Still have parts now I have noticed tensioner is bouncing around just another item to replace. I put aftermarket belt on with less suppleness maybe that is the issue?

Your tool gave me an idea this tool is thin walled for tensioner adj, I drilled hole and wolla If I can find 3/8's to 1/4 I am in game.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Wed Jun 20, 2012 7:54 am

The holes in the pulley are bigger then 1/4", Before changing your 3/8" bolts try them. But I suspect that they are a 8mm that is close to 5/16"

Don't forget the cardboard to protect yopur radiator when your wrestling with the fan, clutch and cooling shroud :dizzy:

I bought our trailer out of state and when bringing it home I also looked down and saw 80 MPH :SOMBRERO:

But I was just keeping up with the semi's

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Jun 20, 2012 9:41 am

nissanfrontier - I suspect if the serp belt tensioner was weak or slack you would have much bigger problems than the fan not running at full speed as that belt drives the alternator, power steering and AC compressor so none of those would be working right not to mention the belt would probably come of its track.

That said I notice your later post mentions the tensioner bouncing around (normally the tensioner should barely twich). That performance is a classic symptom of a bad alternator clutch pulley (lots of posts on this topic). The clutch pulley is replaceable (a quality Litens replacement runs about $80 (I think you can get one from a DCJ dealer but I don't have the part # or price); do not fall for the cheap ones including the one made by the company whose name begins with "F". Alternatively Autozone has a lifetime warranty replacement alternator for a decent prices (see viewtopic.php?f=5&t=69058&p=739040&hilit=autozone+alternator#p739040). Bottom line is I suspect your tensioner is ok but the alternator clutch needs dealing with ASAP as bouncing can eventually destroy the tensioner which is not cheap.

A good after market serp belt like Gates is the same quality or better than OEM so no worries there.

FYI a bad tensioner will often lean, once the belt is removed, into the power steering pulley. Also the pulley on that tensioner can go bad in which case it can be replaced by the same pulley as used for the 2 serp belt idlers (ca. $20 at NAPA - 36101 just lose the big washer)

EAB · **Joined:** Tue Sep 06, 2011 9:39 pm **Posts:** 141

nissanfrontier, is that the Sport 16 Airstream? Looks like a good time.

CATCRD · **Posted:** Wed Jun 20, 2012 9:42 pm

Using Sir Sam's idea of holding the pulley still with a 13mm socket couldn't be easier. I literally had the fan off in under 10minutes.

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Jun 21, 2012 2:20 am

Yea, that socket and a BFH to beat on the 36mm wrench, and you can undo a multitude of Chrysler sins in one giant whack.

naturist · **Posted:** Sat Jun 23, 2012 9:25 pm

The fan clutch in my 2005 was shot by probably 50,000 miles, but didn't get replaced until 78,000 miles. That one turned up shot by 135,000 miles. So it looks to me to be an item that needs replacing (if you use the OEM clutch) at least every 50,000 miles, unless you do no towing, when it is quite un-needed at all.

Fan Clutch life

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