I am a prospective CRD owner and I apologize if this was covered before (I did a quick search and didn't find a match).

I am looking to purchase a CRD with the intention of towing my track Miata on a car hauler that has a total weight of about 4000-4500#. Distance-wise I will be towing about ~5000 miles per year. The selection of CRDs are quite low in my area (Toronto, ON Canada) and I notice some do not come with the factory tow package.

Firstly, what are the differences between the CRD equipped with the tow package vs. without the tow package? Is it just the hitch and brake light wiring harness?

Secondly, what towing modifications would be recommended to tow with a CRD? Ok I have searched for this and understand that the Provent or EHM is highly recommended. As is running a good synthetic engine oil. Additionally I believe the GDE tune is recommended, a brake controller, and possibly a transfer case upgrade. Anything else? What about a transmission cooler or oil cooler? Rear air bags?

Others may differ or know more than me so I'm sure you will get other opinions.
1. as far as I know the towing "pkg" was just the hitch and wiring including an adaptor to go from the factory round plug to the common flat one. Whether or not that wiring includes the wire needed for electric brakes I don't know but am inclined to doubt it. Getting a quality hitch installed with basic wiring should not be that big a deal although I will note some forum members are fond of equalizing hitchs about which I know less than nothing.
2. if I was going to tow a lot of miles and a fairly heavy load I'd go for extra tranny cooling and some kind of trailer brakes whether surge or electric I'll leave to those that know more. I can say that pulling 2,000-2,500 lbs behind a fully loaded CRD on I-10 from AZ to Tally we had no cooling issues and stopping was acceptable although one did have to pay a bit more than normal attention to surrounding traffic in like El Paso and irrational traffic stops.
3. GDE tune, check their site and maybe call Keith for advice as to which one, would be highly recommended. FYI on the above trip - Stock 2006 CRD with GDE EcoTune and TCM tune and original OEM torque convertor we got a corrected 21.5 mpg. Seehttp://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB ... 21#p739421 for discussion.
4. I'd spend money 1st on the GDE tune before paying for a Provent which in any case I'm not running. With the GDE tune and Samco CAC hoses I'm not convinced of the benefit.
5. Don't trust a previous owner, without documentation, to have run the correct fluids (ATF+4, HOAT antifreeze, or recommended oil) figure on a good flushing of all those systems and use the recommended fluids. Failure to do so can and has caused issues. I'd recommend oil and filter change intervals of ca. 6,000 miles and do yourself the favor of getting a Fumoto oil drain valve to make it easy.
6. Don't worry about the transfer case as it's pretty solid but you will likely need to plan on a torque convertor upgrade (NOTE "hotter" GDE tunes make this a necessity) sometime down the road. Lots of chat Euro vs. SunCoast vs. other options. I went SunCoast just because they are only 3 hrs away and did the install.

When buying used be aware that a timing belt replacement is CRITICAL at or very near 100,000 miles as timing belt failure takes valves and lifters with it adding several days and some $700 in parts alone to the job. Replacing a timing belt is a tedious DIY job but certainly doable with the right tools, rent from GDE, and taking your time to follow instructions or if you are luck having the assistance of a nearby member who has done the job. Bottom line if you are buying a CRD with over 100k miles require proof that the TB job has in fact been done do not under any circumstances fall for the not uncommon lines of 1) don't worry about it my mechanic checked the TB and it's fine (you physically cannot check the TB without getting into the engine so far that it's only another hour so to just change the darn thing) or 2) the really big I don't know what I'm talking about statement that you don't need to worry about it because the engine has a timing chain.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Thanks for the comprehensive response, that's helpful for my research.

About the tow package. If I were to retrofit a CRD without one is the wiring connector available somewhere in the trunk and I would just need to buy the wiring harness? Would you recommend buying from the dealer or is there a good aftermarket equivalent available?

Does the Jeep owners manual have the timing belt change at 100k miles under all conditions? Or does it list 100k for "normal" conditions vs. "severe" conditions? Are you folks that get a cold snowy winter and hot summer following the same 100k mile interval?

Go to http://www.etrailer.com and they have everything you need. When I did mine, I got myself a different wiring converter to go from the 3 lights that our KJs have to 2 lights that trailers have. I used a heavy duty version for trailers with more lights (like the camper I am going to be towing.

Here is what I got...

Curt 500/5000 hitch.
http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/J ... d=20069803
Although if I was to do it again, the Draw-tite is rated at 750/5000 and 750/7500 WD.

3/2 light converter
http://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Tow-Ready/119190KIT.html
If you don't think your trailer uses a lot of power, you can get a cheaper and easier converter
http://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehi ... d=20069803

I then ran all my own wires for trailer power and trailer brake.

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2006 Sport, GDE FT Eco Tune, Custom Trans Tune
2015 Ram 1500 Big Horn EcoDiesel, GDE Hot Tune

My 2005 CRD did not come from the factory with the towing package, but I had the dealer install a hitch before I picked it up. Later, I had to replace the wiring with a round 7-pin system for towing w/ electric brakes. I was told by both the dealer from whom I bought it and the one that swapped out the wiring that the only other difference was the mechanical fan for the towing package.

For what it is worth, I've replaced the fan clutch with the heavy duty, lower temperature Hayden clutch, and have towed a 5,000 pound, full-size travel trailer back and forth across the country, with the only issue being an engine overheating problem that the Hayden clutch should solve. I noted that when it overheated (ambient above 90˚ F, highway speed, going up mountains while towing) that when the fan did finally kick in, it cooled right off with the stock fan. I have not yet towed under those conditions since installing the Hayden to prove this, however.

But since the Hayden is supposed to kick in 20˚ cooler than stock, that oughta do it.

As to the timing belt, 100,000 miles is the only distance I've ever heard mentioned anywhere, "severe service" or no. The "severe service" oil change interval criteria are worded such that every vehicle surely falls under that category.

Finally, I'd very much recommend the GRD ecotune for a number of reasons, not least of which the extra torque will come in handy while towing.

I'll leave it to others who know more than I on the wiring issue.

With respect to the timing belt interval:
1. the Jeep books simply list 100,000 miles as the change interval - Gates does too but in the fine print say what they are listing is what the manufacture recommends.
2. Sir Sam and I have chatted on mileage vs age and mine is getting replaced at ca. 50,000 miles; based on my annual miles driven that's going to be somewhere around 8 vehicle years and I just don't feel like trusting a timing belt to go an additional 8 years to get to 100,000 miles. Not when I have all the Miller tools, know how to do it (thanks geordi), and the silly belt (Gates version) is all of $75 from Amazon. I figure $75 and a morning's work is cheap insurance. Now if I drove a more normal 12,000 miles or more a year I'd do the job based on mileage.

Bottom line is I'd consider 100,000 miles the appropriate change interval for anyone driving the "average" number of miles a year regardless of climate (ok maybe extreme cold or heat might alter that a bit but how is beyond me - by extreme I mean routine well over 100 F for most of the year not just the summer and similar on low temps). Does that mean exactly 100,000 - no I would not go much beyond that distance as failures seem to start at about 115,000 although some fans of living on the edge have gone past 150,000 before destroying their rockers and lifters.

PS - notwithstanding the 2 dealers naturist spoke to that said the CRD tow pkg contains a mechanical fan I beg to differ. With/without the tow pkg CRDs all came with the same metal 5 blade fan which is "mechanical" but engages only via a heat triggered clutch. Looking at the parts fiche it appears the 3.7L gasser stock fan may be electric and the tow pkg fan is mechanical and clutched like the CRD fan.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

OK here's the real deal about towing with a CRD

As mentioned above all you need is wiring and a hitch. ALL mechanical items like power steering cooler, transmission cooler and fans are included in the stock CRD configuration.
Wiring Only consider OEM Chrysler wiring kits, the trailer wiring plugs right in and includes relays and 4 to 3 circutry built in in a first class kit. Well worth the $$'s
IF your CRD has a factory installed EVIC then wiring is a very simple job of adding one Chrysler cable to a plug behind the right rear quarter panel Everything you need will be there including a wire by the driver's kick panel for a brake controler
This cable powers some trailer circuits with relays that isolate the trailer from theCRD.
But if you do not have a factory EVIC then you'll need a second "Supplemental" wiring kit that supplies the extra wires that are included if yours has a factory EVIC. It runs from the right rear quarter panel all the way up to the battery with connections behind the dash It's a pain to install, been there and done that.

Note the CRD calls for a WDH (weight distributing hitch) for tongue weights of 300# or more

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)