Broken Ingition - won't start

galatron · **Posted:** Wed Jul 11, 2012 2:11 pm

So my wife was driving the CRD and stopped at a vendor, she went to start the CRD again, and it wouldn't crank. I drove the 30 miles to retrieve the CRD and after some diagnosis, it wasn't the solinoid, not the battery, and not the safety interlock.
What happened?
It was the "shaft" that goes from the key lock into the plastic electrical switch has broken.
This shaft has a plastic rod passing through and has metal surrounding on two sides into the electronic switch. one side of that shaft was broken.

Dealer wanted 50 bucks for the switch which I got at Advanced for 17.
Is the key/shaft part rebuildable?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Jul 11, 2012 3:12 pm

No if I understand your question correctly. Turning the key turns a rod that runs under/thru (I forget which) the steering column to the "ignition switch" on the other side and activating that switch triggers a relay in the box behind the driver's side headlight that says to the ECU "please start the engine pretty please". The rod assembly can be replaced by Dorman # 924704 (see Dorman Video for how to remove and install) - apparently no dealer equivalent and the ignition switch by Mopar 4793576AB or alternative BWD CS812 or Airtex 1S5932.

The rod is usually what goes and it's not at all hard to find the assembly as it's been in use since 1995.

This is a not too common but known problem. See viewtopic.php?f=5&t=61233&p=678574&hilit=+brother#p678574

dieseldawg · **Posted:** Wed Jul 11, 2012 3:42 pm

Napa sells the part you need too.

Ignition Switch Actuator Pin
Part Number: BK 6201414

Mine broke just like you describe. Harbor Freight sells the security bit set which makes replacing it much easier. I took the switch off the side of the column and used a screw driver to turn the switch to start it as a temporary fix. Just make sure the key is in the ignition and turned like it is in the run position so the steering wheel unlocks and the security system knows your key is there.

galatron · **Posted:** Wed Jul 11, 2012 4:36 pm

Yep, i "hotwired" it just like you described to get her home. However in my fury, I ripped the covers off and the plastic off the square switch to get this little beast home. I got the new switch already and ordered the actuator shaft from rock auto- it was 30 bucks. the plastic shrouds cost about 40 from oemmoparonline.

All in all, I'm still happy with the CRD! This failure was probably from the previous owner cranking like crazy on the ignition when her timing belt failed.

Seriously, she did very little maintenance besides regular oil changes.

I mostly put this post up here in case someone else had a similar problem.
Here's the parts I ordered:
DORMAN Part # 924704 Ignition Switch Actuator Pin
BWD Ignition Starter Switch Part No. CS812

ajdance · **Joined:** Tue Jun 07, 2011 11:49 pm **Posts:** 11

My dealer said the whole steering column had to be replaced when mine failed. ($750 for the part) I installed a separate switch for a temp fix. Thanks for the dorman #. That will be my next project. darn dealers sure can put the screws to a guy. (no conscience!)

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Jul 12, 2012 5:00 pm

I have a hunch a good dealer parts person could find the Mopar # given that the "rod" assembly has been in use by DCJ for decades but I have not asked my really good dealer parts person that question.

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Sat Aug 18, 2012 9:12 pm

I just had the same experience and thought I'd add a little info here to help the next candidate... :SOMBRERO:

The Doorman video is helpful: http://goo.gl/nzA8b

The failed part in my case was the actuator - the pot-metal is weak and gives out where it connects with the switch itself. As with others, the switch was only $13.99 at Cost-Less so I installed a new switch as well. The Doorman 924-704 was $35.99. You can see a good picture of it here: http://goo.gl/kc5ou

The torx safety tool can be found at Harbor Freight for under $6 (before tax).

The pictures I took may be helpful - I've posted them with notes on my FaceBook page. Here's the publically accessible URL so you should be able to review them even if you don't have a FaceBook account: http://goo.gl/3Nrlr

Read the notes with the pics before working - they may help.

Lastly, I'd encourage you to follow the directions Doorman provides carefully (two sheets). The interlock for shifting can jam if you don't, and it won't come out of park until you get it right! ; ' ) Ask me how I know! Read it, but had to go back and read more carefully to catch the part I missed the first time through - the order of assembly is important.

Here's a link to the instructions: http://goo.gl/JMe3r

If you've not done it before - give yourself 30 minutes and you should be fine.

You'll need a torx T20 to remove the two screws from the plastic clamshell cover that wraps around the steering column and ignition parts, along with a 'safety' torx T10 bit to remove the three screws that hold the switch itself (1) and actuator (2) to the column.

That's it - I'd rate it a 2-3 on the scale of difficulty (out of 10).

Slightly harder if you don't read the instructions and discover the shifter doesn't unlock, or lose track of the little piece that goes into the actuator cover, or the spring that pushes up from the cover on the steering wheel lock. Didn't, just saying they'd be easy to miss or lose.

Have fun! :POPCORN:

Mark

dude1116 · **Posted:** Tue Feb 17, 2015 11:32 pm

msilbernagel wrote:

I just had the same experience and thought I'd add a little info here to help the next candidate... :SOMBRERO:

The Doorman video is helpful: http://goo.gl/nzA8b

The failed part in my case was the actuator - the pot-metal is weak and gives out where it connects with the switch itself. As with others, the switch was only $13.99 at Cost-Less so I installed a new switch as well. The Doorman 924-704 was $35.99. You can see a good picture of it here: http://goo.gl/kc5ou

The torx safety tool can be found at Harbor Freight for under $6 (before tax).

The pictures I took may be helpful - I've posted them with notes on my FaceBook page. Here's the publically accessible URL so you should be able to review them even if you don't have a FaceBook account: http://goo.gl/3Nrlr

Read the notes with the pics before working - they may help.

Lastly, I'd encourage you to follow the directions Doorman provides carefully (two sheets). The interlock for shifting can jam if you don't, and it won't come out of park until you get it right! ; ' ) Ask me how I know! Read it, but had to go back and read more carefully to catch the part I missed the first time through - the order of assembly is important.

Here's a link to the instructions: http://goo.gl/JMe3r

If you've not done it before - give yourself 30 minutes and you should be fine.

You'll need a torx T20 to remove the two screws from the plastic clamshell cover that wraps around the steering column and ignition parts, along with a 'safety' torx T10 bit to remove the three screws that hold the switch itself (1) and actuator (2) to the column.

That's it - I'd rate it a 2-3 on the scale of difficulty (out of 10).

Slightly harder if you don't read the instructions and discover the shifter doesn't unlock, or lose track of the little piece that goes into the actuator cover, or the spring that pushes up from the cover on the steering wheel lock. Didn't, just saying they'd be easy to miss or lose.

Have fun! :POPCORN:

Mark

This is absolutely awesome. Thank you so much for posting!!

Broken Ingition - won't start

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