Is there something wrong with my jeep or is this a universal issue for us. I use the block heater(even after I start it, confirmed working using a watt meter), I have a grill blanket, and I have a 195F Stant inline. What the hell is going on? Is this just how it is?

I wouldnt care since I can deal with the cold for 5 minutes while i drive. The issue is when the windows are iced over and fogged up every day with all the snow we are getting here in the North east. I cant deice/fog them with the heat so I have to drive around like Ace Ventura.



I've resorted to turning on every electrical component in the jeep to try to load the engine as much as possible:

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

A guess....maybe the stant is stuck open. I too have the stant and with these cold temps (8f) currently it takes about 4 miles to hit the 11 o clock mark. Then at idle I watch it go back down. Lol

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2005 Crd Silver Limited- arps, rockers, 7v etechno's, egr deleted, v6 airbox, metal cac's. Yeti's stage 2 tune. Euro TC, Ram tcm, pml transmission pan, facet lift pump

I'd first check with an obd Bluetooth adapter and torque pro to see the actual coolant temp. The gauge isn't linear at all. This will tell you if it's warming up at all, with all you have done it's hard to believe that it would still run that cold. You could remove the fan to keep the engine from pulling air over the radiator all the time. I've had mine off for over a year and didn't have any issues, even pulled a tandem axle 18ft enclosed trailer about half loaded in the middle of summer. in the winter like this, even at 10°f it warms up to full operating temp in around 5 miles.
the liberty runs coolant through the heater core all the time, it controls heat by using blend doors in the ducting. it's possible something is keeping the one door from opening, could be as simple as a blown fuse, to something like a snagged door that won't open.

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05 Liberty Limited CRD, converted to KPA 2863 ball bearing and billet turbo, 50hp injectorsl, complete egr delete, cooling fan delete, weeks intake kit, cummins in tank lift pump, ARP studs, 3" turbo back exhaust, samcos, etecno plugs, GDE trans tune, custom GDE engine tune.

The mechanical fan was going to be my next step. I assume it still rotates slightly since its just floating on the viscous clutch and nothing it perfectly frictionless.

It does blow heat, it just doesnt do it without me driving it for a few miles, so i dont think there is an issue with the HVAC system. Once the thing gets up to temp the air coming out of the vents is boarderline burning hot with the 195 T stat.

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

Even if your thermostats were working properly it would still take forever to warm.
Even for me, in a north florida winter, mechanical fan removed, it takes at least ten minutes of driving before warm air comes out the vents.

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U.S. Army Retired

Even plugged in, if you just idle it takes forever to warm up, and I really mean forever. As soon as you load the engine, it's not so bad. I drove on 0-5 degrees with stock thermostat and got to operating temperature even without going on a highway. I also have an efan instead of the viscous fan. And btw, before efan, the engine temp was dropping down as soon as I was idling on a stop light, even for less than a minute when below 10 degrees. People just do not realize how much wind chill they create with the viscous fan. Even with a blanket, the fan still moves cold air over the whole engine.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

You had good luck last winter didn't you? 5 minute drive is short though..

today maxed out at 4 above zero, and 5 minutes is what it took to just get it to the 'low' side, another 4-5 miles had the needle just left of noon... And this is a cold trans to boot. (no od or lock up). I'm lucky, I can ease onto the highway and drive accordingly as the engine warms.. You guys who have to drop into combat style driving the instant you leave your driveway is difficult for ANY engine, let alone this one!

I'd start with another inline.. can't beat the price! Then I'd do the fan removal. If short hops are this things routine.. you better get it up to temp!
EDIT..
Now I read your last post "It does get up to temp" just not fast enough to keep the glass clear on short hops..

gotcha! Do you run w/o the top engine cover? try putting it back on too, and the fan trick.

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2006 KJ CRD, bought 9/11/14, 70,500 miles. Circulating Rotella T6 5w-40
11-3-14 oem stat installed
11-5-14 gen II FH installed.
Sasquatch elbow kit, samcos, GDE eco FT. 11-26-14
80,500 miles, engine is disassembled, awaiting parts 3/18
Budget?? Sure! 'Everything I have'.
New "Pet" name for My Jeep; 'Soul Sucker'

If you remove the snorkel on front/bottom of air box, the engine will pull slightly warmer under hood air. This can help with efficiency overall during the winter.

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Providers of wholly developed aftermarket solutions for the KJ CRD.
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Mass - my
1. with inline tstat you may not be getting what little extra early heat the viscous heater puts out
2. I know you checked the block heater with a watt meter but whether or not that provides a true indication of function I don't know. More to the point when the block heater has been on for a couple of hours did you feel the upper radiator hose. It should be at least warmish and with the block heater running you should get some vent heat, maybe not enough, in just a mile or so.
3. May not work up there but down here if the windows are going to ice over I find a piece or plastic or a towel over the front window keeps ice off it. Might try on passenger side as a test.
4. Wild thought I've often wondered if there was a way to hang a 60-75w incandescent light bulb in the cab above the dash and if doing so would help preheat the front wind screen. Keeping it far enough away to avoid cracking glass or melting plastic it might be hanging from of course.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

If you really want to heat up faster, consider an electric pad that you glue on the oil pan, for both transmission and engine. You can find good prices on Amazon. I would also get rid of the inline thermostat, in my opinion that's asking for trouble ... If you don't want to spend so much for turbo diesel freak's thermostat, get a new oem which should last easy 50k. I have had mine replaced at about 80k and now I'm over 130k and thermostat seems to be working fine. And also swap that huge viscous fan with an electric and it will also help heating faster.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.