Hello, all. I owned an 05 CRD sport several years ago that I've always regretted selling. Looking at getting into another one. Here's where I need advice. Found a relatively close 05 limited with 117k miles. Pretty complete service history other than timing belt not being done. Clean carfax, 1 owner, etc. They are asking $8800 as is, the rub being the oil pan plug was stripped by valvoline at the last oil change. The price is good and the car is clean other than the oil pan. Is this too much of a gamble? Should I walk and keep looking? Thanks in advance,

Jeremy

I believe you can tap it a bigger size and then put a Fumoto Valve in. I remember reading on here about that. I hope someone else can give you a bit of more information. You can try being creative with your searches.

And, if you get it. TIMING BELT ASAP!!! If not sooner!

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2006 Sport, GDE FT Eco Tune, Custom Trans Tune
2015 Ram 1500 Big Horn EcoDiesel, GDE Hot Tune

I read about the fumoto as well as the noob guide. I'm mainly looking for somebody to tell me that with proper maintenance this thing can be a reliable daily driver, and that I've found a really good value. But only if it's true.

The price does not sound too bad given what work needs to be performed. They may take less.

Are you going to be handling the work needed on the engine yourself? If no, do you know of a technician that has the special tools and can work on these mongrels?

Where are you located? Maybe someone here on the forum can be of help?

The oil pan can be tapped and a Fumoto valve installed typically without much issue. Given that they know what happened at the quick lube, is the oil pan plug in place and leaking or out altogether?

The timing belt needs to be changed pretty soon. Approx. 125K is all that the original belt will see before failure. At 117K miles, it's getting a little too close for comfort for me. Figure $1600.00 parts and labor for that if farmed out.

Bottom line, for me anyways, is that a good deal is only good if you know how to efficiently (time,money) handle the problems that you are inheriting. Hope this helps.

FWIW,

Hoosier CRD

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FWIW,
Hoosier CRD

#1 Liberty: '05 CRD Limited Stone White
(SOLD Dec. 2013)
#2 Liberty: ???
"Why guess when you can know?"- Carroll Smith

Wouldn't drive tow to a shop and get the timing belt changed. Timing belt go's your good deal is gone!!

Thanks for the replies. I live in Louisville, KY. I can handle the drain plug issue myself, I think. I've never tried a timing belt, so I'd pay someone to do that. I've been wondering if a tow was the best way to go.

That isn't a bad price, and I'm down in Savannah (not too far away) and talking with other members about possibly driving to them to do the belt job. I'd be happy to come up there and do the same for you.

I've done a few of these now with my factory tool set, and have it to the point where I can save a lot in time over the factory's disassemble-the-engine-from-the-tailpipe type of nonsense. It is still a solid day of work, but that is because you have to be precise in how you do it. The first step is also the hardest - removing that danged fan that they installed with an air hammer. I have the tools to undo that too.

At 117k, I agree with the others - I wouldn't drive it too far, it needs that belt done pronto. I did my own at 108k and it looked pretty good... But every mile that thing runs, tiny amounts of the rubber surface are wearing off. At some point, it will have worn enough that the teeth have weakened, and the timing can jump. When that happens... Bad things. Expensive things. You REALLY don't want that to happen.

As it is right now, you are probably in a position where the belt alone needs to be changed, and then the pulleys and tensioner need to be inspected to see if they need to be replaced. Ditto on the water pump. Inspections will show whether the bearings are weakening / failing (I haven't found one yet) and started ejecting their grease. The next step in a failure is that the bearing starts howling - This is VERY easy to detect - and then it really starts wobbling before falling completely apart. One happy point in all this: These bearings are the same ones that they have used for regular serpentine belts since at least the mid 90s. I've had (and have still) a fair number of MOPAR vehicles in my own family, one of which is at 250k miles on the original engine.

Only ONE pulley bearing on that engine has ever failed, and none on the other vehicles, all of which are well over 100k. Whether you decide to do just the belt or both pulleys too, that is up to you. I also haven't yet found a water pump that needed service, and my own is at 132k and still pumping away happy.

You should lean on the selling dealer (although that is a pretty good price already) and see how much lower you can get out of them for it. DO NOT, under any circumstances, trust them to do the timing belt and not screw it up! Without the proper tools, the potential to destroy all the rocker arms is immensely high.

As far as the drain plug, I have a procedure that I did on mine, that can fix yours permanently in about 15 minutes. Not a helicoil, an actual threaded collar into the hole, and then a new plug.

The big question I'm sure you are now wondering - how much would I charge for the timing job? Negotiable, but less than the dealer, and you know I will get it done right.

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Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

PM sent.

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FWIW,
Hoosier CRD

#1 Liberty: '05 CRD Limited Stone White
(SOLD Dec. 2013)
#2 Liberty: ???
"Why guess when you can know?"- Carroll Smith

The belt has not only 117k miles on it but is now 7+ years old. Needs to be changed last week.

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2006 Liberty CRD Limited

Provent @ 43,000 km
SEGR in progress
SAMCO Sport hoses @ 48500 km
Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac LT225/75R16

Thanks for the advice, folks!

I'm now told that the oil drain plug won't come out. It just spins. How do you remove that?

Jeremy

So... I'm guessing you bought it,eh?

Hmmm... sounds like an engine removal to me--in order to replace the oil pan. You can replace the oil pan with then engine in place, but it is MAJOR surgery to do so. It looks/sounds/cyphers out to be easier to just allow the engine to escape it's confines for this one. While out, the timing belt job is easier too. Hope this helps.

FWIW,
Hoosier CRD

_________________
FWIW,
Hoosier CRD

#1 Liberty: '05 CRD Limited Stone White
(SOLD Dec. 2013)
#2 Liberty: ???
"Why guess when you can know?"- Carroll Smith

On that spinning drain plug I can think of several approaches that are not as difficult as pulling the oil pan but which approach would depend on the type of drain plug. In both cases I'm assuming the pan threads are pretty shot and that the plug is one of the 2 styles of OEM plugs not one of those expanding things the quick lube places like to use to hid the damage they have done.

If it's the hex head plug you can probably grab the sides of the hex with vise grips and apply downward/outward force while turning counterclockwise and it should come out. If it's the allen wrench style you may have to tack weld an allen wrench stub into the recess and then do the same thing. Once removed I suspect you will need to use the collar method of repair geordi found as I suspect the pan threads will be really gone.

Best I can think of off hand. Other better ideas certainly welcome.

Of course taking it back to the folks that broke it and making them pony up for the fix might be an option.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs