...for caster,you will just loose some highway speed tracking,as the steering will feel very light and tend to wander a bit more.

Toe is perfect. Camber is within .1 of each other.

Caster is 2.3 in on the left and 2.6 in on the right.

I am just sensing harder steering and a pull to the left now.

Caster has an obscene amount of adjustment and is the first to be done. Take it back, and make sure they set caster first.

Actually no you set camber 1st.Camber is far more important then caster and both camber and caster are set by using the cam bolts on the LCA's and either cam bolt will effect both adjustments.Granted the front cam bolt is mainly for camber,but does also effect caster,and the reverse for the rear cam bolt.

STANDARD PROCEDURE - CAMBER, CASTER
AND TOE ADJUSTMENT
Camber and caster angle adjustments involve
changing the position of the lower suspension arm
cam bolts. (Fig. 4)

CASTER
Moving the rear position of the cam bolt in or out,
will change the caster angle significantly and camber
angle only slightly. To maintain the camber angle
while adjusting caster, move the rear of the cam bolt
in or out. Then move the front of the cam bolt
slightly in the opposite direction. (Fig. 4)
To increase positive caster angle, move the rear
position of the cam bolt outward (from the engine).
Move the front of cam bolt inward (toward the
engine) slightly until the original camber angle is
obtained. (Fig. 4)

CAMBER
Move both of the cam bolts together in or out. This
will change the camber angle significantly and caster
angle slightly. (Fig. 4)
After adjustment is made tighten the cam bolt nuts
to proper torque specification.

TOE ADJUSTMENT
The wheel toe position adjustment is the final
adjustment.
(1) Start the engine and turn wheels both ways
before straightening the wheels. Secure the steering
wheel with the front wheels in the straight-ahead
position.
(2) Loosen the tie rod jam nuts.
NOTE: Each front wheel should be adjusted for
one-half of the total toe position specification. This
will ensure the steering wheel will be centered
when the wheels are positioned straight-ahead.
(3) Adjust the wheel toe position by turning the tie
rod as necessary (Fig. 5).
(4) Tighten the tie rod jam nut to 75 N·m (55 ft.
lbs.).
(5) Verify the specifications

Actually no, you set CASTER first.

The cam bolts in the LCAs do alter both camber and caster, but caster adjustments cause a proportionally smaller change in caster than the reverse. By setting base camber first, you are drastically limiting your adjustment range in caster, to keep camber 'close' possibly to a point where you don't get within spec. Base caster allows a greater range of camber adjustment to bring it within spec. You will need to go back and forth to get both caster and camber proper, but by starting in the reverse way limits your ability to make adjustments.

If the alignment shop set the camber first, then they limited themselves in adjustment ability for caster, thus leaving your cheese in the wind with your alignment. Take it back and have them do it correctly.

It depends on the vehicle,some may be able to be aligned no problems,others require JBA UCA's and some will never be able to get all the specs into the green no matter what.It just varies from vehicle to vehicle.

Always sacrifice caster,it's a non-tire wearing angle.Have them center camber while keeping cross caster within 0.5 degrees.It's okay to be as low as 2 degrees for caster,you will just loose some highway speed tracking,as the steering will feel very light and tend to wander a bit more.

Why don't you just get 4 new tires instead since you have the select trac it would make more sense.Also skip those 215's,that's most likely alot of your problem as they are to narrow for stock rims anyways.